need help in mods for ae111

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Postby sergei » Thu Sep 14, 2006 2:57 pm

BZ-G will have lots of small thing different to an FZ.
With brakes department, BZG has got rear disks and thicker front rotors.
To change that you will need complete rear hubs and handbrake cables ,ABS senors (if you have ABS) and proportion valve.
I'm not sure with AE111 but AE101 GT vs AE101 SJ (or AE100 S), GT-APEX/GTZ spec had better speakers and had tweeters, and an amp (all factory), also AE101 GT specs came with side skirts aswell while poor non gt did not.
You will end-up with a car that costs like ST205 GT4 while having a toy car wich would not be a genuine BZ, with low resale value (personally I would not buy a half deal / molested car, I would rather buy a genuine BZ, not that I will be buying any in the future).
They are good cars, but there are much better cars to spend money on.
These are just shopping troleys with slightly more grunt than usual.
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Postby AE85coupe » Thu Sep 14, 2006 3:00 pm

sergei wrote:These are just shopping troleys with slightly more grunt than usual.


best description i've heard in a long time
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Postby solitaire » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:23 pm

OK im going to repeat what everyone else is saying but what the hey... these guys all actually know how to work on cars where-as i spend almost every weekend swearing at my lcars... so i feel a little more qualified to speak :lol: Seeing as im in a similiar technical level to you.

You cant polish a turd... i know you love your car but if you fit all those parts to it and decide to sell it (and you will at some stage) you will probably get less than a standard fz because:

a. Its highly modified... hardly anyone will insure it
b. It will clearly be a boy racer car so you have a very limited demographic to sell it to, so less demand therefore a lower price

If you are asking how to panelbeat a car stop work... put down your tools and back away... unless your prepared to put down about $3000 in tools for the job.

Mate, start by just doing a reguar service yourself, oil, tranny oil, fuel filter, plugs etc. If you get that far take the car to vtnz for a warrant and spend the next 4 weeks fixing all the niggly little things they failed you on...

Then, buy a $200 car... take the engine and tranny out... put it back in and see if you can drive it round the block.

IF you can do all that then do your brakes and any parts that dont need painting...

These guys know exactly what they are talking about...

Honestly i love my Levin like crazy... and im never selling it... So you know what i did? I bought a turbo mr2 to modify and left the levin as my economical daily drive... if you can afford to modify a fz and insure it then you can afford to buy a 2nd car and insure both of them and modify it.

These guys know what they are talking about... i know you think its worth it but its not... someone with little tecnical experience cannot learn how to panelbeat, paint, perform and engine swap, perform a manual conversion, perform brake conversion, perform a handbrake conversion and fit a body kit without extensive training.

AND DONT FIT THE WING.... IM BEGGING YOU - thats more of a honda thing...
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Postby solitaire » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:25 pm

oh and stop knocking levins you two! :lol:
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:25 pm

OK i have to correct you there on that one solitaire, extensive training to do an engine swap?? No i dnt think so i did one myself with no idea on how an engine worked a few years ago, and it turned out just fine. Panel beating all depends on the repairs needed, as i reversed into a car 2 months ago and the whole back of my car was pushes in like 100mm boot kinked lights smashed and out of place, rear bumper falling off. Yeah i know it was really bad, i just replaced the light and grabed a mallet and in half a day it was as good as new. Im no panel beater and the mallet was only $7 the lucky thing was no panels were bent. Its all trial and error. Bodykit same story easy to fit and modify. Painting is another story. You wont know if you dont try.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:10 pm

TRD_ZERO wrote:OK i have to correct you there on that one solitaire, extensive training to do an engine swap?? No i dnt think so i did one myself with no idea on how an engine worked a few years ago, and it turned out just fine. Panel beating all depends on the repairs needed, as i reversed into a car 2 months ago and the whole back of my car was pushes in like 100mm boot kinked lights smashed and out of place, rear bumper falling off. Yeah i know it was really bad, i just replaced the light and grabed a mallet and in half a day it was as good as new. Im no panel beater and the mallet was only $7 the lucky thing was no panels were bent. Its all trial and error. Bodykit same story easy to fit and modify. Painting is another story. You wont know if you dont try.


You make a fair point... i guess i didnt explain myself properly... ive had a habit of doing that...

Im looking at doing the same thing myself... But , and no offense to anyone here.... but he keeps calling his engine a 4afz.... and keeps saying he want to buy "the bz-r or bz-g engine".... im only commenting because questions like "how do you panel beat" makes me highly concerned that this gent is going to ruin his car...

I find it hard to believe that someone who knows little about their car will have the time to do a engine swap and manual conversion etc without a second vehicle... maybe im cautious but i dont believe in ripping apart your pride and joy untill you have a little idea of what your doing...

Hes talking about getting 200+horse power out of the thing... that an expensive task... and i do not believe he fully understands what he is undertaking... correct me if im wrong...

Ps... Please explain how you turned a munted rear end back to factory condition with only a mallet... im very interested...
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Postby Bling » Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:47 pm

solitaire wrote:Ps... Please explain how you turned a munted rear end back to factory condition with only a mallet... im very interested...


keen to know aswell :lol:
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:20 pm

OK here goes, im not going to go into how i had the accident all ill say is i backed into another car :roll: . Ok like i said the light was smashed, boot was kinked at the top right, the bumper was pushed past the rear gaurd and the right light didnt fit properly also pushing way past the gaurd. No panels wer damaged only a slight scratch on the boot and paint off the bumper. Bought a new rear right light. I took the bumper off and saw how badly the back of the car was pushed in hence the kinked boot lid. Took all the interior of the boot out and got my mallet to work. But hitting the rear out it slowly but surely pulled the light back into place. I just kept hitting the rear out then putting the light and bumper back. This was done a few times until it was pertfect (well as good as it will get). Now the boot, the kink was under the rear spoiler on the right. I bent the boot lid to about the right shape so that it would close.I then grabed a floor mat out of my car (they even supply panel beating tools in your cars :wink: ) laid it down on the rear spoiler where the kink was and gave it a few sturdy wacks with the mallet until it was flat. It all worked a treat.
So yeah thats how i did it well with a shit load of help from my father and no he is no panel beater far from it actualy.

So before pay someone else assess the problem or project, then maybe try it yourself its all trial and error and if you mess it up you learnt a nice lesson.
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Postby solitaire » Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:29 pm

Awesome description thanks mate... So, it just kinks back in straight? like if you look at the surface from a 45 degree angle it looks like new?
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:45 pm

The kink in the boot was nicely under the spoiler on the right edge its not perfectly straight but u cannot see it if you walk around the car. you have to look close and right under the spoiler. i didnt hit it any harder as i was scared the spoiler was going to get damaged. I tried taking it off but couldnt be bothered with all the glue that kept it on so i quit while i was ahead and it looks damn good
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Postby solitaire » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:47 pm

TRD_ZERO wrote:The kink in the boot was nicely under the spoiler on the right edge its not perfectly straight but u cannot see it if you walk around the car. you have to look close and right under the spoiler. i didnt hit it any harder as i was scared the spoiler was going to get damaged. I tried taking it off but couldnt be bothered with all the glue that kept it on so i quit while i was ahead and it looks damn good


So... and dont take this as an arguementative comment because its not meant that way... But your repair job, while looking very very good, was not up to a usual panelbeater standard? Which was kind of my point on the whole "experience" and "tools" comment...
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Postby sergei » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:56 pm

solitaire wrote:
TRD_ZERO wrote:The kink in the boot was nicely under the spoiler on the right edge its not perfectly straight but u cannot see it if you walk around the car. you have to look close and right under the spoiler. i didnt hit it any harder as i was scared the spoiler was going to get damaged. I tried taking it off but couldnt be bothered with all the glue that kept it on so i quit while i was ahead and it looks damn good


So... and dont take this as an arguementative comment because its not meant that way... But your repair job, while looking very very good, was not up to a usual panelbeater standard? Which was kind of my point on the whole "experience" and "tools" comment...

I've seen a lot of 'usual' panel beater jobs. Most of them looked like done by monkeys.
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Postby solitaire » Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:00 pm

Ive only crashed twice but both times she looked better than she did before the crash... :lol:
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Postby bOi » Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:07 pm

wonder how "lee" is doing with his fz-g?.. he hasnt come back to this thread for a while hahah :P
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Postby solitaire » Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:18 pm

bOi wrote:wonder how "lee" is doing with his fz-g?.. he hasnt come back to this thread for a while hahah :P


He got a bit bullied when he tried to hijack a thread... hes probably gone to nz hondas... they will proably like the big wing he wants to fit to his car a little more
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:31 pm

I spent about two minutes fixing the boot, and to come out like it did was fantastic. If i had taken the spoiler off and given it abit more attention it would of been perfect but that was the last bit of the job so i was a little sick of panel beating for the day. You cant see it anyway unless i told you to look there and its very minor anyway. The whole thing beats paying $2000 od for a panel beater job when a little $7 mallet can do a close enough job.
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Postby Cakky » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:45 pm

do it first time do it right

if your not confident on doing it yourself, dont

everytime i touch my car something goes wrong, i took the hint, so i dont $&#$% with it anymore, my mechanic does lol.

but by all means if you wanna have a go at doing something go for it.
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Postby solitaire » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:46 pm

Mate im not knocking the job you did at all... Im very impressed you were able to do it... i wouldnt know where to begin.

But consider the scope we are speaking in:

This car is his pride and joy, He's bought a body kit and heaven help us, a wing. He is going against all logic and trying to convert a fz into a bz. He wants to panel beat out a few nicks and minor dents, Do you think he is going to be happy unless its absolutely perfect?
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Postby solitaire » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:47 pm

Cakky wrote:do it first time do it right

if your not confident on doing it yourself, dont


amen brother
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:00 pm

YEah solitaire dont worry i know you arent. Thats right if you want it perfect then it pays to pay someone professional to get the best job possible. Some jobs dnt need professional work done on it, sometimes it just depends on how mechanically minded you are. If i was lee id pay someone to do it niks and dents in panels are a f*kcn pain.
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