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Stealer Of Souls wrote:Do you mean the same ecu unit or different ecu units? I always thought mine went up to 7800 before cutting, but when I was on the dyno the sheet came back with a 7300ish cut. I thought it was weird, so worked out how fast it would've been going in that gear at that RPM and sure enough, 7300ish when it cut...NA Drifter wrote:Sometimes it cut at 7200rpm, 7400rpm, sometimes 7800rpm still std ecu..
Does it have to do with temperatures and that? Perhaps cuts lower if engine cold????
sergei wrote:No way you will have valve bounce on 4AGE at 7000-8000rpm, it has to be somewhere arround 10k mark, my 20v revs till 9000rpm and no valve bounce (just a nasty fuel cut at the end, slamming brakes feeling)... BTW it has stock springs in it.
I had a redtop it revved till 8k.
You might have lower rev limiter due to SPD sensor not connected (wich is fed from dash).
How did I miss this post?!?!?!?sergei wrote:It is defenitly temperature dependant. (On colder it is lower).
Good point...Mr Revhead wrote:ok
so we have established the difference between valve bounce and rev cut....
can anyone answer the original question?
That is useful. Even if I don't need the speedo output for the ecu, I do need to run some other stuff I've got. Any ideas where to check it out?big_boy wrote:you can get this thing for link ECU`s for about $40 that splits the spedo drive in 2 one eletronic drive for the link ( or in your case the ECU) & one manual drive for the spedo if that would help
May be true in some cases. In my case the tacho reads fine down low. Because it's an AE85 dash it starts to go bad after about 5.5k. Below 5.5k usually everything meshes up almost perfectly with calculated values.Brick wrote:you cant really go by the rev counter on the dash, ysterday when i was driving along the link hand controller said 2,700rpm but the dash said 3,000rpm, and as it gets higher it gets less accurate. I use to think my old Fx rev limiter was at 8,200
Mine has an exhaust O2 sensor. but it's dead... And it turns out the bluetop ecus don't care what the o2 sensor says anyway. They determine fuelling purely from maps.TTEETT wrote:Just been for a drive to test where my GT hits its rev limiter, seems to be at 7,800rpm, and has no speed cut limiter. Its NZ assembled, I have a spare NZ-GT ECU in my shed for a rainy day, I have been told they are different before but never really believed it, the import blue-top motors normally have an censer on the exhaust manifold too don’t they?
TTEETT wrote:Just been for a drive to test where my GT hits its rev limiter, seems to be at 7,800rpm, and has no speed cut limiter. Its NZ assembled, I have a spare NZ-GT ECU in my shed for a rainy day, I have been told they are different before but never really believed it, the import blue-top motors normally have an censer on the exhaust manifold too don’t they?
Cheers Karl.Karl_Skewes wrote:without reading every post:
Wire up an aftermarket ecu and you will find that the factory dash under reads at that sort of rpm. Hence why some cars revlimit at 7300 and others at 7800. Common.
Some dashes are better than others.
ECU's are all the same for each model/product number on the ecu.
On your motor, the ECU has fuel cut only at 7800. Fit aftermarket or adjustable limiter if you want more revs. gah.
なんでまたStealer_of_Soulsのポストを読んじゃかったかな。。
Stealer Of Souls wrote:My 7300 was from the dyno, not read from my dash (can't read from my dash cause it's a poos dash).
Can you suggest what to get to adjust the limiter? IE what to buy/build/steal.
Yeah. They probably entered the number by doing just that...matt dunn wrote:How did the dyno know what revs you were doing,
they probably entered in a gear ratio and adjusted it to read the same as your revcounter, which if he entered in 1000rpm and it was doing 1100,
make the dyno read 10% out so out by about 700rpm at 7000.
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