4age bluetop wont start **SORTED!!!**

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Postby rwd_mayhem » Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:02 pm

yea the dizzy just wasnt geting any voltage when key was on start. no sorry i dont know how he fixed it, i hate wiring so i just let him do his thing, he tidyed up the wires i had soldered onto the barrel and put them somewhere else, may have had something to do with it :?
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sat Mar 17, 2007 10:02 am

^^^i would say that was because the ign sources were wired up wrong on the ignition barrell. ive seen that on another project car - all the relays were wired up to the acc (same as radio etc) so when the key is turned to "start" everything on acc switched off, including the relays!

distributor seems to be getting power fine anyway, it actually gets slightly more voltage when the key is turned to start than when its just on ign...

THIS IS DRIVING ME NUTS...I need it going tonight so I can get to tauranga...is it possible just the ignitor has crapped out? i got another ignitor here I can try but it needs to be rewired to put in and I don't want to go through all that if its not likely to fix it... :lol:

edit - just chucked the other ignitor in anyway, still no spark. also done a compression test on all 4 cylinders, they're between 115 to 130, with no spark on any of them.
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Postby big_boy » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:33 pm

check the wires between the ECU & ingihter
The faster you go the quicker you get there

soarer 4.6L V8 twin turbo sold before i finished it fully
datson 1200 SSS coupe & GA60 soon to be 7M-GTE
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:57 pm

done that, ive checked damn near every wire in the car and replaced everything.
noticed before the main HT lead from coil to dizzy wasn't recording any resistance, noticed the end of it was toast so tried fixing it and still got nothing. In the end I bought a brand new ht lead, stuck it in but still no go...
all the rest of the ht leads going from dizzy to plugs are recording a correct resistance.
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Postby g-lo » Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:46 pm

Have you checked your cambelt?

if there is no spark is the dizzy
turning when you crank the engine?
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Postby repowered » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:56 pm

g-lo wrote:
if there is no spark is the dizzy
turning when you crank the engine?


can test this by getting the lead from coil to dizzy and unplugging at the dizzy and then jam that end somewhere so the contact is close to an earth, then crank it over and see if it sparks.

i jammed it between the coil and the body and getting the lead terminal close the coil mount (if your by youself need to get it at the right spot so you can see it spark- or turn the lights out)

hopefully this will narrow it down abit more.

sounds like its turning into a mish
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:50 pm

yes, checked and rechecked cambelt each time I've changed distributors (about 5 times now). dizzy / rotor is turning when engine is cranking.

no spark at all, not even from the coil. i've checked it with a spark tester and by earthing it out with no luck, i'm damn near tempted to test it with my tongue just to make sure I'm not going blind!!

i've heard along time ago about running a pencil down the side of the spark plug or HT lead to prevent it from sparking. which was it, plug or lead? highly unlikely but i'm getting desperate!!

so just to clarify

* no spark on any of the plugs
* compression - 115psi to 130psi on all four cylinders
* fuel pressure is about 45psi at the rail
* distributor - used three different ones in total now, all in working order last time they were used
* timing - valve and spark has been reset accurately each time i've changed dizzys
* fuel is getting to the plugs, as they are definitely wet after cranking it over for a bit and all injectors are firing, including cold start
* spark plugs are all brand new
* coil is brand new and showing correct resistances
* ignitor has been replaced
* ECU has been swapped for one which was working last time I had it in the car
* power is at the coil as normal, still has power while cranking
* connections between ignitor, distributor and ecu are all OK
* all relays are working and putting out correct voltage
* batt / ign power to ecu is all OK, including STA signal
* ht lead from coil to dizzy is brand new as it was burnt through (thought it was the problem when I found it). all other HT leads from dizzy to plugs are showing resistance of between 12 - 18
* all kill switches / immobilisers are still working, no dodgy connections or anything that have crapped out in the middle of them

umm thats about all I can think of off the top of my head, more than likely more stuff which I've replaced/tested but forgotten about.

i'm going to try get a mechanic to come check it out himself, but if anyone has any major - like, MAJOR - brainwaves in the mean time please let me know!!!
im sure I'm gonna kick myself when the problem is finally found cos its probably something real straight forward that im missing... :roll: :lol:
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:45 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:
i've heard along time ago about running a pencil down the side of the spark plug or HT lead to prevent it from sparking. which was it, plug or lead? highly unlikely but i'm getting desperate!!



that is true, for spark plugs. man sound like a huge mish ay, i know you dont like it but i think your gona have to pay someone to fix it. let us know what happens coz im very interested just incase it could happen to mine
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:03 pm

sweet couldn't remember which it was, had a feeling it was the plugs. cant be anything like that then as they are brand new. im going to try get another guy to come check it out tomorrow or wednesday.
hell I had this problem with my other car yesterday, it just died and I fixed it in about 10 minutes tonight - the auto sparkys solder had come apart so nothing had power...if only everything was that easy!! :?

just reading through an ae86 service manual, suggested compression is 179psi with minimum pressure 142psi and max difference between all cylinders is 14psi...
i assume thats just to keep everything in perfect condition, it would still operate outside these pressures...

will definitely post a message once its fixed...
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:09 pm

are you sure that the igniter is bolted to a secure steel part of the chassis as the igniter case is part of the circuit and must be earthed properly.

Just to recheck,
was the car running and then stopped?
or was there work done and now it does not go?
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:29 pm

ignitor is securely bolted to the coil clamp, as it has been for the last year.
I've used the sr as my daily car for the last year and never had any major issues, no work been done to it at all in the last few months. started it one morning, stalled, and its never started since.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:29 pm

as a last resort i swapped the HT leads from my DX over tonight (even though the resistance was fine on the ones in my sr). cranked it over and it was trying to fire and had plenty of spark...chucked my original HT leads back in and still the same thing - reset the timing and it fired up fine.

all I can think of is its either a dodgy wire somewhere, but there was power everywhere even when there was no spark so that seems a bit weird. or else there was a little bit of oil residue on the end of the ht leads (spark plug ends), not much and its been there for ages...I cleaned that off properly, maybe it was preventing a decent spark or something.

very weird, wish I did know what caused it though incase it happens again :roll:
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:58 pm

typical toyota, just fixes itself. i hate it when that happens
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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Postby repowered » Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:04 pm

haha shit thats weird aye,

could explain the weak spark then no spark??

at least its sorted :)
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:43 am

rwd_mayhem wrote:
that is true, for spark plugs. man sound like a huge mish ay, i know you dont like it but i think your gona have to pay someone to fix it. let us know what happens coz im very interested just incase it could happen to mine


i had to say that didnt i, yesterday i started it around lunchtime all good no problems, then when i went to start it around 5 because it needed to be somewhere important it just said no and wouldnt start. been playing around today and realised its doing the same thing as before, will try to start in the tiny second i let go of the key, god dammit! have to take it back to the sparky again.
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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Postby andyztouring » Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:41 pm

rwd_mayhem-Does your car have a ballast resistor? If it fires when you let the key go ,its sounds exactly like a ballast resistor has gone.
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Postby big_boy » Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:44 pm

you got that the rong way way round if you have a ballest resistor(thats shat its self) the car will start but stop when you turn the key to on

not crank & then start when the key is in the on pission
The faster you go the quicker you get there

soarer 4.6L V8 twin turbo sold before i finished it fully
datson 1200 SSS coupe & GA60 soon to be 7M-GTE
doing up: MA61 5M-GZE-U with TAVAS ???
for sale EE90
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Sat Mar 24, 2007 2:22 am

o shit! who do i believe lol. its at the sparkys now anyways shud get it done free as the problem he fixed has fuxked out again
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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