How Many St205 owners!

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Postby fivebob » Tue May 15, 2007 11:27 am

Why is it that a lot of rebuit 3S-GTEs run their bearing not long after they've been rebuilt?

Improper cleaning of the block/oil passages?

Incorrect bearing clearance?

Poor tuning?

Stock motors don't do it, they last for a very long time before bearing problems arise :?
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Postby sergei » Tue May 15, 2007 11:33 am

DR wrote:
sergei wrote:Yeah, I am an owner, well sort of, the car has not arrived from japan yet :(


Ah, so that wasn't your white one sitting outside GVI the other day then?

Nope, I did not want that one -> my one is face lift (small thing make big difference - smaller steering wheel, different lights, different spoiler).
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Postby vvega » Tue May 15, 2007 11:59 am

fivebob wrote:Why is it that a lot of rebuilt 3S-GTEs run their bearing not long after they've been rebuilt?

Improper cleaning of the block/oil passages?

Incorrect bearing clearance?

Poor tuning?

Stock motors don't do it, they last for a very long time before bearing problems arise :?


lots of people when they rebuild don't take out the gallery bungs and scrub the gallerys out
nor do they clean the bores properly after a light hone or re bore
and very few actually check journal and crank sizing as well as ovavlity on the cranks
on top of that the jornals in the crank themselves and the centre of a hollow cam and good placed for particulate to hide

to put the block cleaning into perspective
before your ready to asemble your block you should have
pushed a white rag though ALL the oil journals and if you see anything on there AT ALL you haven't cleaned well enough
same with the bores
before you even dream about putting a piston in there you need to have a white rag and scrub the walls till you no longer see any dirt on said rag

bluntly your block should be so clean you should be able to lick it and not taste anything...lol don't tri this one at home

most people belive that the filter will pick up the dirt and grindings but the reality is most oil filters for car are only 18-26 micron
there design to filter out sludge and filings and atmospheric dust...not tiny partials

for reference we use anything down to a 4 micron filter and if a tank hasn't been cleans or pipes haven't been cleaned properly the pump will die
most hydraulic tanks have baffles built into them to stop these small partials and let them settle in the bowels of the tanks besacause it identifed that even our filters cannot clean the oil well enought to creat ultimate reliability

so in short 90% of early engine failures are due to contaminates
9 % from incorrect measurement
1% form manufacture fault

and no fivebob I'm gathering you would already know most of what I've said its just to try to provide a complete comment :D

so to recap
clean clean clean
and then clean some more
OH and NEVER use a bead blaster on ANY engine component unless its had the arse clean out of it
bead blasters can leave dust as small as a single micron
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Postby fivebob » Tue May 15, 2007 12:13 pm

My thoughts exactly. People don't clean enough, it's either too hard so they don't do a proper job, or they don't know that they should clean, clean, clean and then clean some more.

The white rag trick is an oldie but a goodie, been doing it for years, but you need a large supply because it take a lot of cleaning to get it so there is nothing showing on the rag when you wipe it on a surface/through a gallery.

A mate of mine used to sell sub micron filtration equipment, worked really well, but expensive as hell. Even that doesn't pick things up until they've been through the engine :(
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Postby dougsop » Tue May 15, 2007 5:12 pm

vvega wrote:
fivebob wrote:Why is it that a lot of rebuilt 3S-GTEs run their bearing not long after they've been rebuilt?

Improper cleaning of the block/oil passages?

Incorrect bearing clearance?

Poor tuning?

Stock motors don't do it, they last for a very long time before bearing problems arise :?


lots of people when they rebuild don't take out the gallery bungs and scrub the gallerys out
nor do they clean the bores properly after a light hone or re bore
and very few actually check journal and crank sizing as well as ovavlity on the cranks
on top of that the jornals in the crank themselves and the centre of a hollow cam and good placed for particulate to hide

to put the block cleaning into perspective
before your ready to asemble your block you should have
pushed a white rag though ALL the oil journals and if you see anything on there AT ALL you haven't cleaned well enough
same with the bores
before you even dream about putting a piston in there you need to have a white rag and scrub the walls till you no longer see any dirt on said rag

bluntly your block should be so clean you should be able to lick it and not taste anything...lol don't tri this one at home

most people belive that the filter will pick up the dirt and grindings but the reality is most oil filters for car are only 18-26 micron
there design to filter out sludge and filings and atmospheric dust...not tiny partials

for reference we use anything down to a 4 micron filter and if a tank hasn't been cleans or pipes haven't been cleaned properly the pump will die
most hydraulic tanks have baffles built into them to stop these small partials and let them settle in the bowels of the tanks besacause it identifed that even our filters cannot clean the oil well enought to creat ultimate reliability

so in short 90% of early engine failures are due to contaminates
9 % from incorrect measurement
1% form manufacture fault

and no fivebob I'm gathering you would already know most of what I've said its just to try to provide a complete comment :D

so to recap
clean clean clean
and then clean some more
OH and NEVER use a bead blaster on ANY engine component unless its had the ar*e clean out of it
bead blasters can leave dust as small as a single micron



Than who do you recommend to go for the rebuild of a 3sgte ? :lol:

planning to get my bottom end done when have the $$
97 Toyota GT4 ST205 1st run 16.2psi 181.2KW
more to come...
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Postby vvega » Tue May 15, 2007 5:44 pm

dunno never payed anone to rebuild a motor for me
but for people i would trust...to do a top knotch job

go see bruce mannon of mannon butler motors

or lyn rodgers.. lyn rodgers automotive

both have have been in the trade a long time ..have a history of race reliable engines behind them
if you want a race or stock built let them know ..there is a differnt amount of work that goes into both
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Postby Anth_555 » Tue May 15, 2007 6:35 pm

ive got a st205
-1994 GT4 Celica ST205 project
-1984 Trueno AE85
-1993 Surf LN130
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Postby Prymal » Tue May 15, 2007 6:40 pm

ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A wrote:Cheers, will keep you posted on progress, will recive furthur instructions from the onetrack (mechanic), you out there stew?


Hooray for big ends frank .. :cry:

So whats the go - pm me with the massif expensive list ?
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Postby Jdawg » Tue May 15, 2007 7:31 pm

I haven't had to pull down my toyota yet, so don't know if they have a way, but, proper priming of the oil system before start up for the first time is important, making sure all those nice clean oilways are full of nice clean oil.
You can buy oil priming systems which would be a good investment by the sounds of it, TRD must have one available
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Postby FouRacer » Tue May 15, 2007 7:50 pm

Not quite an ST205 but I got an ST185 GT4
GT-FOUR Racer
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue May 15, 2007 9:15 pm

vvega wrote:to put the block cleaning into perspective
before your ready to asemble your block you should have
pushed a white rag though ALL the oil journals and if you see anything on there AT ALL you haven't cleaned well enough
same with the bores


See, I don't get why people wouldnt do that...just about every book I've read about engine building says to use a white rag to check you've cleaned it properly.
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Postby vvega » Tue May 15, 2007 9:58 pm

Mmm, Boost wrote:
vvega wrote:to put the block cleaning into perspective
before your ready to asemble your block you should have
pushed a white rag though ALL the oil journals and if you see anything on there AT ALL you haven't cleaned well enough
same with the bores


See, I don't get why people wouldnt do that...just about every book I've read about engine building says to use a white rag to check you've cleaned it properly.

trouble is reading a book dosent men you can build a engine...im means you now understand the fundimentals.......
there is a reason you have to do a practical side of any engine based qual
it to get pratical experiance and to develop the physical skils required to do the job

here a good example
i started doing a v8 conversion in a aw
all or a sudden people around teh world though it was eazy
i had mine to the point it was ready to drive(more or less) and had to sell it for personal reasons
just over a year on

aside from mine none has got even close to the stage i was at (some have cut there cars up to tri to do it)
i guess my point in just because youve read about someone that has done something this dosent automatically infuse you with tallents you dont have

engine building is a talent
while you can read a book and build a basic engine........
i woudlnt go building anythign to flash just yet

this is the mistake people make
they get overconfident because it looks so eazy in photos

anyways
v
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Postby ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A » Tue May 15, 2007 10:33 pm

the motor was not cleaned properly, there was a lot of mistakes when buildiny,eg the retaners were not fitted properly, no1 and no2 injector plugs were round the wroung way, the big end bearings were not sized right,there is to many things to mention,
tips to all, build the motor to suit what you want to do with it
incorrect engines for the job don't last very long in the wroung aplication

From 1tr4ck Grey ST205 262kws atws @16.2 psi (franks mechanic)( standard internals)
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Postby dougsop » Tue May 15, 2007 10:45 pm

ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A wrote:the motor was not cleaned properly, there was a lot of mistakes when buildiny,eg the retaners were not fitted properly, no1 and no2 injector plugs were round the wroung way, the big end bearings were not sized right,there is to many things to mention,
tips to all, build the motor to suit what you want to do with it
incorrect engines for the job don't last very long in the wroung aplication

From 1tr4ck Grey ST205 262kws atws @16.2 psi (franks mechanic)( standard internals)


how long did that engine last on standard internal :?
97 Toyota GT4 ST205 1st run 16.2psi 181.2KW
more to come...
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Postby ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A » Tue May 15, 2007 10:49 pm

doug still going strong for him
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue May 15, 2007 11:34 pm

vvega wrote:trouble is reading a book dosent men you can build a engine...im means you now understand the fundimentals.......
there is a reason you have to do a practical side of any engine based qual
it to get pratical experiance and to develop the physical skils required to do the job


Oh for sure, I'm not saying that reading up on a subject makes you an expert - but surely before you become a professional engine builder you'd have to do some theory as well as practical to become fully qualified...and most books seem to point to cleaning blocks and parts thoroughly before reassembly as one of the fundimentals of engine building..
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby vvega » Wed May 16, 2007 12:18 am

Mmm, Boost wrote:
vvega wrote:trouble is reading a book dosent men you can build a engine...im means you now understand the fundimentals.......
there is a reason you have to do a practical side of any engine based qual
it to get pratical experiance and to develop the physical skils required to do the job


Oh for sure, I'm not saying that reading up on a subject makes you an expert - but surely before you become a professional engine builder you'd have to do some theory as well as practical to become fully qualified...and most books seem to point to cleaning blocks and parts thoroughly before reassembly as one of the fundimentals of engine building..


completely agreed ..it wasent meent o be a attack or personal just tringt o elaberate on what you were saying :d
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Postby dougsop » Wed May 16, 2007 12:28 pm

ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A wrote:doug still going strong for him


its the guy you recommended to me right ? :lol:
i think i should go see him 8)
97 Toyota GT4 ST205 1st run 16.2psi 181.2KW
more to come...
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Postby TRDGT4 » Thu May 17, 2007 10:01 am

SO...... are there going to be most of you show up at the MEGAMEET this year could be a good chance to compare notes etc 8)
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Postby sergei » Thu May 17, 2007 10:08 am

Heh, if I show up on megameet, my ST205 would be a much stock standard as possible ;)
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