Traction problems.....

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Traction problems.....

Postby ke2nv » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:35 pm

Like people do, Ive been given a lot of opinions about how bad/crap/undrivable my car is going to be once its finished (I'm looking at putting a 220KW CA18DET in to a KE20) But the main trend is, people think that when boost hits, the wheels are just going to spin, even on dry surfaces, because of the power and the (lack of) weight. What do any of you guys think?? Do you think Itll be drivable? I'm about to buy this engine but now I'm worried It may all turn out bad
Adamal wrote:Aww Bae, you jus come up to a corner, and smack it back in second gear, and bounce it off da red line and turn bro! Then you stick your arm out the window and go "CHUR BAE!!!"

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Re: Traction problems.....

Postby strx7 » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:45 pm

ke2nv wrote: because of the power and the (lack of) weight.


lack of weight isn't really THAT much of the problem, its the rear suspension design/geometry. 5 link the rear end and you'll be able to put power to the ground
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:53 pm

that and good tyres + common senses = not dying.
probably.
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Postby ke2nv » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:54 pm

what exactly does "5 link the rear end" mean?
Adamal wrote:Aww Bae, you jus come up to a corner, and smack it back in second gear, and bounce it off da red line and turn bro! Then you stick your arm out the window and go "CHUR BAE!!!"

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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:56 pm

four link system with panhard rod
could also use watts linkage, but thats harder to set up
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:59 pm

heres a possibly good base:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Toyota/Engines-drive-trains/auction-108968460.htm?p=1

that one is missing the top arms, but you can see the brackets for them
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Postby ollieboy » Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:21 pm

I have a friend with a Datsun 1200 with ca18det in. Makes about 300hp and weighs about 600kg and he doesnt really have trouble putting the power onto the ground so it is possible.

His suspension looks pretty standard as well. Leaf springs in the back. I will however ask him sometime what has been done.
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Postby Kender » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:02 pm

Keeping the rear springs soft will aid with traction control. Then add a rear sway bar to reduce body roll when cornering.
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Postby frost » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:04 pm

is that 1200 blue and was built up at mikes rust shop?
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Postby ollieboy » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:07 pm

Nah its a yellow one.
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Postby gmacrae » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:30 pm

I'd imagine it will be pretty loose, should rip the tyres loose when it comes on boost in 1st and 2nd in the dry, 3rd should be ok tho. what width rear tyres can you get in a ke20?
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Postby Cakky » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:54 am

gmacrae wrote:I'd imagine it will be pretty loose, should rip the tyres loose when it comes on boost in 1st and 2nd in the dry, 3rd should be ok tho. what width rear tyres can you get in a ke20?


depends how good you are with a mallet and a baseball bat! :lol:
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Postby ke2nv » Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:40 am

haha, I'll probably be getting 8 inch wide. Where abouts is that Datsun 1200 from?
Adamal wrote:Aww Bae, you jus come up to a corner, and smack it back in second gear, and bounce it off da red line and turn bro! Then you stick your arm out the window and go "CHUR BAE!!!"

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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:27 am

Kender wrote:Keeping the rear springs soft will aid with traction control. Then add a rear sway bar to reduce body roll when cornering.


soft springs stiff shocks.....
was good enough for mr chapman.....
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Postby ollieboy » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:24 am

ke2nv wrote:haha, I'll probably be getting 8 inch wide. Where abouts is that Datsun 1200 from?


Christchurch, Well actually a place called Russels Flat which is more near the mountains.
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Postby varix » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:31 pm

I have a mate with a Datsun 1600 with a CA18DET running about 250hp and it is useless in the wet but is pretty mean in the dry, wont light up when boost hits but can light into second on full boost. The 1600s do have IRS which helps i guess. Hes running 205 Direzzas.
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Postby postfach » Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:48 pm

varix wrote:....250hp and it is useless in the wet....Hes running 205....


wonder why it's useless :P

220kw on 225's should be fine, thats about what I've got (although my car is heavier, but also more powerful) and yeah it does bake the rears a bit in first and second in the dry, but honestly, how often do you actually need to floor it in first anyway? you can still accelerate plenty fast enough with your foot off the gas just enough to prevent wheelspin.
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Postby Lloyd » Mon Jul 23, 2007 4:02 pm

I got some 13x7 Spitties sitting here with no home to go to, just the right size for some 215s ;)



EDIT - Just remembered that you are running 4x114.3 on that KE20. If you want to swap axles and front hubs with my black one then I've got some 13x7 spitties that would fit :)
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Postby Voyeur » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:04 pm

What is the application, straight line, daily driver or track.
Straight line: increase angle of diff head to 14 degrees above horrizontal.
Daily driver: set diff head to 8 degrees, soft springs and hard shocks, sounds strange but independently valved air shocks work well.
Track: watts is thew way to go
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Postby ke2nv » Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:21 pm

the application is daily driver, with plans to take it down the strip or MAYBE even round a track one day. And HRT, those spitties would be nice, but I'm guna do the disc brake conversion before i buy wheels, just in case they dont clear the discs or something :?
Adamal wrote:Aww Bae, you jus come up to a corner, and smack it back in second gear, and bounce it off da red line and turn bro! Then you stick your arm out the window and go "CHUR BAE!!!"

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