4age runnning funny......

[3T-Rona]

hey as most that read the tech section know ive been having trouble getting the 4age in my ke30 running smoothly.
Had a shagged big end so i got a silvertop bottom end and slapped it all together.
Now ive been un-able to set the timing el-properly because i cant get the ecu into diag. mode,
tried setting my T.P.S to original specs but it didnt work
(b4 anyone ask's i work at an auto-electricians, used a FLUKE meter, got the boss to help)
ive got a brand new meter (new leads, no resistance)
so i will try to set it again 2mro.
Back to the point, firstly i left the TVIS butterfly plate out and it was boggey as,
so i chucked the plate back in and it went well enough, then the exhaust manifold decided to crack (where it had been welded previously)
and the 2-1 gasket blew out so it sounds like a tractor and runs like a gutless sack, no backpressure obviously (have a set of extractors in the mail)......
Forgot to mention in the beginning the engine would warm up (on the gauge) check gauge operated fine,
changed thermostat (runs a hideous fwd water pump setup),
engine will warm up if left at idle for a while, 10mins, but gauge drops very quickly one the vehicle starts moving, runs ke30 radiator,
but if i just start it and drive like when im on my way to work, it will be barely warm (on the gauge) by the time i get to work, 15mins drive.
It will idle like its on cold start the whole time 2000+rpm, i have unplugged fifth inj. but made no difference.
Main point of my babble is every now and then i wil jump in the mighty ke30 ie after work, may have been running for a minute or three as i close up shop,
reverse out the drive go to take off (brand new clutch and press plate is very snappy) and viola it lights up the treads (maybe with a little excess accelerator) and goes like a shower of shit,
ie struggles for traction through corners, lights up a wheel on a wet roads as the mighty TVIS kicks in, but then it kinda goes back to normal after i turn it off and start it again after a slight rest (no its not just me )
i noticed the last time this happened (not sure about the other times) the idle was rising and falling like and air leak,
but appears to return to idle normally when its running boring...... dnt think im forgetting anything...... anyideas? thought maybe a faulty temp sensor......
any advice is greatly appreciated, churrr

[2LTR Rona]

could you please edit that to make it more easier to read

I gave up after about the first 3 lines, started hurting the eyes

I suspect that others have looked and just seen a mass of words & flagged it

break it in to easier to read portions & you might get some responses

[l1ttle_d3vil]

thought maybe a faulty temp sensor......

definitely worth checking out, they can make a car run mint or absolute crap.

i had a similar problem with my sr ages too - every time I started it, it would run differently. traced it down to a faulty connection on the coil/ignitor wires (igt and igf i think weren't joined properly ) and same with the dizzy, wires had been crimped but not properly, hence every time it started the timing was different.

i'm sick of all the problems with bluetops now and am building a 4agte to chuck in with a brand new link ecu hopefully thats more reliable

[3T-Rona]

yeh if only i had the money cant justify building a decent engine for my daily, supposed to be saving for a 1uzfe for the 'other' rolla...... any better chief, sorry about that was very hard to read

[bluemaumau]

do you think that sensor can effeect idle?

[KinLoud]

It could be a problem in the loom somewhere. If you fully take apart a loom you will often find wires crimped together - this is how many factory looms are made.
As said above could be a dodgy crimp somewhere or a dodgy sensor.
Think about throwing another loom in there and see if the reliability improves.

Cooling system... look at my past post, here
viewtopic.php?t=34544&highlight=thermostat
This might help you understand how earlier fwd (pre ae101) 4age, 4afe thermostats were setup from factory.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[rollaholic]

surging idle could be due to idle speed control valve being shagged - reasonably common on bluetops as they are getting old.

its the little setup under the throttle body with two water lines running into it.

[3T-Rona]

surging idle could be due to idle speed control valve being shagged - reasonably common on bluetops as they are getting old.

its the little setup under the throttle body with two water lines running into it.

not hookd up at all, lines all blocked off.
sweet will try some of the above, dnt think it will be loom, pulled all the yucky oilly tape and shit off it and recovered it while i have the engine out and it looks pretty seet, may invest in some new temp sensors, any idea what the two at the back of the head do? im also thinking it may be a red top, 7rib block, has tvis, also has black rocker covers with red writing but who knows.....

[2LTR Rona]

One is the Water Temp Sensor

other is Cold Start Injector Time Switch

[rollaholic]

not hookd up at all, lines all blocked off.

that will be the cause of the surging idle then, unless someone has secured it in one position internally.

[3T-Rona]

only some times tho, possible it may vibrate into a certain position at times and not others, can i take it off altogether and put a sealed plate over it?
2LTR RONA- any chance you know which is which?
cheers guys

[2LTR Rona]

PM me you postal address and I will burn a copy of the 4AGE manual for you and fire it your way, its 95Meg so email isnt really an option

the one at the 12 o'clock position is the Cold Start Injector Switch (off the top of my head thats the brown play, could be wrong)

the one slightly off-set is the Water Temp Sensor (thats green if the other one is brown)

You dont have a pic of the Dia Plug for a bluetop in RWD format do you? Trade you it for the PDF manual

P.S the manual has a fault diagnostic section for each part in it to btw

[rollaholic]

only some times tho, possible it may vibrate into a certain position at times and not others, can i take it off altogether and put a sealed plate over it?

you could, it wont idle very well when its cold though.

its an easy one to check, just take the inlet piping off and put your thumb over the small bypass hole while its surging. if idle evens out you found (part) of your problem

[3T-Rona]

hmm sounds gd, rolaholic. set my TPS using a decent meter yesterday, then managed to set base timing. run's plenty better skids galore, not that i condone illegal acts of vandilism (yeh right), still waiting on my extractors to arive, hopefully it will make a bit of difference.
cheers for the help 2LTR RONA, shouldnt need that pdf manualfor now but ill let you know down the track if i should happen to need it (would rather a link ecu anyways)
again cheers 2LTR RONA, ROLLAHOLIC and any one else (LILDEVIL)
thats helpd out.....
on another note, how would a bigport shitbox cope with an SC12/14 kinda slapped on the side, thinking i would need a gze ecu and injectors? maybe CAS to......? just for fun

[l1ttle_d3vil]

yep i've blocked that air bypass valve off on mine, its alot tidier without all those waterlines there. works fine. i just cut up a alloy plate and screwed it to the bottom, then theres just one extra line to block off.

already been said but yes, green is the water temp sensor and brown is the cold start injector timer. the water temp sensor is the most important one cos it tells the ecu exactly how much fuel to chuck in.

2LTR Rona, what is the pic you're after? i've got a couple of rwd looms here, can get pics of plugs if you want...PM me if needed.

as rollaholic said try blocking off the holes in the throttle body, there are 2 or 3 of them so make sure you check them all. try blocking them individually or all together and see what works. is your idle screw wound all the way down?
also check around the back of the throttle body where it attaches to the manifold. there are two different types of throttle bodies - they have air ways/breathers on opposite sides so if you put the wrong throttle body on the wrong manifold it will suck air thru the side. can get pics if you need a better description! another way to check for leaks is pull the air filter off and cover the TB with your hand, if its a decent leak you'll hear where its sucking through.

hope this helps.

cheers
-matt

[3T-Rona]

idle screw was wound right in to try compensate for the high idle, removed bypass, blocked it up, adjusted idle, sweet as