How Many St205 owners!

[riddles]

1994 JDM ST205 Yellow - Simon.

[Anth_555]

1994 JDM ST205 White - anthony

[gt4our]

1999 JDM ST205 Silver - Paul

[ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A]

1. 1994 NZ New WRC Red - Frank- 021 400 167
2. 1994 NZ New WRC Red- Stu
3. 1994 NZ New WRC Blue - Richard
4. 1994 Red- Red mist
5. 1994 JDM WRC- Tranquil
6. 1994 JDM Yellow - Simon
7. 1994 JDM White - anthony
8. 1996 JDM PRYMAL
9. 1996 JDM Grey- Tim
10. 1996 JDM White- Clint
11. 1996 JDM Black- Tommy
12. 1996 JDM White - cromcruiser
13. 1997 Gun Metal Grey - redmist
14. 1997 JDM Dark green- Doug
15. 1998 JDM White-sergei
16. 1999 JDM Silver - Paul


Did I miss anyone ??

If you have a WRC please modify and phone number might be helpful in the future ?


Engine rebuild update

Rings gaps not set on the block stripped down hence bore damage

All back from the engine machanist and balanced, pistons just about all in

Clutch rebuild parts needed , OS Giken twin plate , old heavy duty clutch and lightned fly wheel in good nick only done 30,000 k

Now who picked up the blowen engine black GT4 from TeAtute? $3000 and $3000 to rebuild nice ! had recaro interior and KYB suerstreets

[benj]

Now who picked up the blowen engine black GT4 from TeAtute? $3000 and $3000 to rebuild nice ! had recaro interior and KYB suerstreets

If you mean Te Atatu then that was me

Black 1997 JDM GT4 with the recaro interior, I hadn't even noticed the KYBs thanks for the headsup.

I am spending a bit more than 3k on the rebuild, am going for forged internals, new turbo, wastegate, BOV, FMIC etc.

But I am now a proud GT4 owner....and will be even prouder when it actually runs again

Cheers

Benj

[ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A]

add you to the list,

1. 1994 NZ New WRC Red - Frank- 021 400 167
2. 1994 NZ New WRC Red- Stu
3. 1994 NZ New WRC Blue - Richard
4. 1994 Red- Red mist
5. 1994 JDM WRC- Tranquil
6. 1994 JDM Yellow - Simon
7. 1994 JDM White - anthony
8. 1996 JDM PRYMAL
9. 1996 JDM Grey- Tim
10. 1996 JDM White- Clint
11. 1996 JDM Black- Tommy
12. 1996 JDM White - cromcruiser
13. 1997 Gun Metal Grey - redmist
14. 1997 JDM Dark green- Doug
15. 1998 JDM White-sergei
16. 1999 JDM Silver - Paul
17. 1997 JDM Black- Benj


In the middle of a full rebuild my self, been off the road for 2 months,

What turbo will you go for ? other planned mods?

Any body interested in looking at a group buy for manifolds ??

or could we have a whole lot made ?

Just sourced some TRD coilovers too, have the TRD streets in at the moment,

Any other finds or news from any one ?

Cheers

[Prymal]

that interior could have been mine if i was given the heads up ( glares at frank )

NZ new Group A No1 is going in for a steering rack rebuild soon - more evil spendyness to go on it , but at least it wont feel like its being steered by rubber bands ..

THEN it might be safe to take to mega meet this year - if we can persuade richard to drive hsi as well , it would be a rare showing of toyotas rarest Gt4's in this country all in one place

other news - Cusco underbrace is paid for and waiting to be shipped from OZ , have new endlinks for the swaybars to go on , and new wheelbearings ..

Got this nasty KNOCK in the front when ever it goes over bumps - though most of the front suspension is new ( trd springs and TRD adjustable struts )

Anyone else get this or is it just me ?

Also mY OZ rims are ebing prepoared to be sent away for a respray - from ithe current grey pearl, to a metallic gunmetal grey

[ST205 GT4 NZ New Group A]

Whats the deal with your end links? where can you order camber bolts from?? Yes still owe you money

Saw the other silver nz new one the other day too gp a

Frank

[Prymal]

I can get them all frank - juts let me know

[benj]

In the middle of a full rebuild my self, been off the road for 2 months,

What turbo will you go for ? other planned mods?

Any body interested in looking at a group buy for manifolds ??

or could we have a whole lot made ?

Cheers

I've asked for some advice in the newbie intro forum without much luck! But the mods/upgrades planned during the rebuild are:

Complete rebuild of the bottom end + rebore to 20 thou oversize
Forged CP Pistons
Eagle rods with ARP bolts
Greddy Type S or R BOV
Wastegate
Garrett turbo
new T3 flanged manifold
FMIC?

So I'd like some advice on:

intercooler, is it worth going to an FMIC or with the stock WTA setup be ok?
Wastegate, brands? Genuine or Copy?
Manifold, custom made, and who does them, or buy one from ebay?
BOV, I'm looking for a very quiet one!

So if any of you st205 owners care to chip in it'd be appreciated.

Cheers

Benj

[Boosted_162]

In the middle of a full rebuild my self, been off the road for 2 months,

What turbo will you go for ? other planned mods?

Any body interested in looking at a group buy for manifolds ??

or could we have a whole lot made ?

Cheers

I've asked for some advice in the newbie intro forum without much luck! But the mods/upgrades planned during the rebuild are:

Complete rebuild of the bottom end + rebore to 20 thou oversize
Forged CP Pistons
Eagle rods with ARP bolts
Greddy Type S or R BOV
Wastegate
Garrett turbo
new T3 flanged manifold
FMIC?

So I'd like some advice on:

intercooler, is it worth going to an FMIC or with the stock WTA setup be ok?
Wastegate, brands? Genuine or Copy?
Manifold, custom made, and who does them, or buy one from ebay?
BOV, I'm looking for a very quiet one!

So if any of you st205 owners care to chip in it'd be appreciated.

Cheers

Benj

Whats your power target? That will determine whether your WTA will still be efficient.

IMO, i would NEVER buy a wastegate copy. Id rather pay the extra money and know i have something of quality. Some cheaper wastegates are alright, i just wouldnt go near those 'style' gates on trademe.

Manifold, evil_si can make you a custom one. Does nice work.

BOV, i assume most plumb backs are relatively quiet?

[benj]

Whats your power target? That will determine whether your WTA will still be efficient.

IMO, i would NEVER buy a wastegate copy. Id rather pay the extra money and know i have something of quality. Some cheaper wastegates are alright, i just wouldnt go near those 'style' gates on trademe.

Manifold, evil_si can make you a custom one. Does nice work.

BOV, i assume most plumb backs are relatively quiet?

I don't really have a power target. The car is going to be a weekend driver and occasional daily driver. As such it needs to be super reliable and the power needs to be usable. I don't know enough about engine building to use the correct terminology but what I'm looking for is smooth consistent power delivery in a very driveable package. But if I was pushed to give a figure, I'd say 400Hp. I've driven a stock st205 and it was good, but could use a good amount more punch.

I've seen posts about evil_si and his work which have all been positive, also another guy called actiondan gets good press round here for his manifold fabrication.

I agree on the wastgate, it seems from my very limited knowledge that this is in effect the safety valve for the whole system, and if it all turns to custard a working one will save your engine.

As a newb I don't even know what you mean by "plumb back" when you talk about a BOV, so I'll do some reading

Cheers for the response.

Benj

[Prymal]

the stock 205 WTA is good for over 200 KW atw .. I know of at least 3 examples still running the stock WTA with 200 + figures

Franks i believe made about 220 ish on the WTA , before he swapped to frontmount - where it currently sits at around 235 ..

This is going to change quite a bit soon when the fresh rebuilt one goes back in - its a monster , theres no other ways of describing it ..

I also know of Franks and my mechanics 205 who's run upwards to 260 AWKW on a stock bottom end , and modified head .. Its still holding strong - and is bloody scary!

When it comes to building engines like these dont settle for copies

they will *never* be as good as the real thing , nor have the support

Plumb back basically means venting the charge back into the intake system BEFORE the turbo - rather than expelling it to atmosphere with the typical PTSShh you here on every second yobbo legacy and WRX ..

Im Aiming for around 400 horse with my Group A but still choose ATA FMIC over the WTA simply because its easier to work around, and having had one in my old Group A 185 - there was a noticable difference with the eway the car picked up and went on those lovely cold nights i love driving on

When modding up a 205 or any Gt4 theres a pretty simple formula to follow step by step ..

Make it breathe ( exhhaust to 3 inches all the way thru , and good filtering )

Make it handle ( a little lowering , maybe somehting like the TRD adjustables , bilstiens , or to a greater extent for those who like track wotrk , TRD or Tein Coilovers )

make it Stop ( because most 205's ill have never had things like the master cylinder overhauled or brakelines replaced , and slotted rotors in combination with decent pads make them stop like nothing else - theres no need to upgrade calipers )

Keep it cool ( better radiator ducting , FMIC possibly though you will need to address code 54 )

*midstep* Tune it right - get yourself a PFC, wolf V500 , Motec, Link - they run very rich tunes - they have scope for vast improvements without having to alter anything mechanically .. 180 + AWKW is obtainable just with a decent engine management system , and exhaust )

make it strong ( rebuild the engine , upgrade the clutch , replace those worn out syncro's, Throw in those uprated cams , port the head , forge and lighten the internals , reduce the rotating mass to free up those extra horses )

make it fast ( this is where the fun starts - bolt on the bigger turbo , wind up the boost , hold the hell on , and see how restricted Gt4's were from the factory , and how blindlingy quick they are with the right mods )

Make it safe ( if you need to - rollcage , uprated seats to hold your arse in spot while you belt around pukekoe or manfield )


If your not dead , thrown out of your house by your girlfriend , onr in jil for multiple traffric offences , now is the time to pay off all the debt youve incurred taking an underestimated 90's AWD , into something that will kick the crap out of just about any car on the road outside of supercar exotics ..

[Tranquil]

The question needs to be asked.. Why would one bother spending $10k on a 1420kg+ vehicle with a mere 2L IL4 if your main priority is performance? If you want all out performance from a IL4 there are far far better platforms to build on than a seriously over engineered (over weight) sports coupe.

A genuine 400hp is a huge amount (not 400 extrapolated from a shitty rolling road/hub dyno). 400hp genuine hp through a water braked engine dyno is some SERIOUS output. Making the engine last is going to be very very expensive. And unless you’re REALLY good with the left foot, forget blasting through the twisties on a Saturday morning.

Lets look at the p/w numbers for 400hp

power
------
weight


GT-Four - 1420
.281 HP per kg

Evo 1 - 1190
.336

FD - 1310
.307 hp per kg

R32 gts-t - 1260kg
.317

S13 - 1200
.333


As you can see, the addional effort required to achieve parity with these other vehicles is significant. Each to his own and all that.. But in my oh so humble opinion, GT-Four's (especially 205's) are one of the worst high hp platforms you could ever choose. Power: weight is everything, if your car's heavier than the 'competition' your always going to fighting an up hill battle.

Re the plumback debate, for an all out performance application you don’t want a plumb back. Re-introducing hot air into the inlet tract is false economy.

If you really want the killer Toyota, 3sgte/1uz powered AW11 is the only way to go

[DCEIVD]

....and will be even prouder when it actually runs again

Cheers

Benj

I've just joined that club "The proud when it actually runs again club"

[Mr Revhead]

tranquil, performance doesnt always mean just drag racing

the st205 would hold its own amoungst that list easily.

[Tranquil]

Oh ok

So you mean show and shine / DB SPL performance? Because that's the only aspect of 'performance' where vehicle mass is not a factor.

And just for the record, this is not a Gt-Four bash, I own 2 of em

[Mr Revhead]

no i mean in corners!
one of the BEST point to pont cars iv ever driven was a JDM group a 205

how dare you suggest i was talking show!!!

[benj]

The question needs to be asked.. Why would one bother spending $10k on a 1420kg+ vehicle with a mere 2L IL4 if your main priority is performance? If you want all out performance from a IL4 there are far far better platforms to build on than a seriously over engineered (over weight) sports coupe.

Re the plumback debate, for an all out performance application you don’t want a plumb back. Re-introducing hot air into the inlet tract is false economy.

Well the question of why would I bother is mainly tied to how I decided what car to buy. So for your viewing pleasure.... the criteria were:

1) Two door
2) 4wd
3) ABS/Airbags
4) Back seat for my boy's carseat
5) Turbocharged for ease of improving
6) I liked the look of

There weren't too many contenders, and hence I ended up with a GT4.

Thanks for the info re plumb back, it seemed a bit odd to me to be sending hot air back to back into the system that is heating it up, did seem counterproductive. I'm sure someone must make a BOV that won't make such an awful noise.

BTW the main reason for the silent requirment on the BOV is that my missus will laugh at me if it makes a horrendous Putishhhhh sound every time I change gear, and my ego just couldn't cope with that

[Prymal]

Evo 1 - 1190
.336

FD - 1310
.307 hp per kg

R32 gts-t - 1260kg
.317

S13 - 1200
.333

Instant answer - they are owned by everybody in this country ( like WRX's and legacys ) - common as fleas on a dogs back , and none of them bar the evo have any real " history " about them .

last three are for drift hero RWD lovers also

And the gt4 still looks bettrer than all of them after 15 years

they are also down on power over the lower three seing they drive 3 diffs , instead of one .. The drivetrains bulletproof , but also saps power .