soarer at drags

[Mr.Phreak]

Don't they have traction control? Or is that just some Soarers.

That's just some

[avinesh]

was a good start for me ran a best of 13.3 at 170.2 km/h not to shabby for a fat auto soarer with non lsd all traps were 170 or over soo kar can hit 12s with a better 60'

[FXGTV]

Good work mate Most of the Aussie cars that run good times compared with NZ use two speed autos :S Who says autos are nothing but slush boxes

[BlakeNZ]

good effort. you car has good power,how were those 60' times?well done again.

[avinesh]

good effort. you car has good power,how were those 60' times?well done again.

13.3 run had 2.15 60' time an a lot of 2.5 60' times resulted in flat 14s an high 13s had no traction after i did a burn out maybe messed up my tyres, i wana hit 180 trap speed down the track next time is it possible if i do downpipe, cam gears an maybe a lil bit more boost ran about 13-14psi at the track

[flygt4]

probly find you wont make much more power on pump gas with more boost.

2.15 is really good for street tyres, you can't ask for much more in a 2wd.

[avinesh]

probly find you wont make much more power on pump gas with more boost.

2.15 is really good for street tyres, you can't ask for much more in a 2wd.

yea but guys in australia are gettin less then 2.0 60' an some are makin 250 plus rwkw on pump gas on stok twins, will downpipe get me any power an cam gears with maybe supra intake cam.....

[flygt4]

the track prep in australia is on a whole different level to ours.
i've never driven at meremere, but masterton isnt that good. you really want to get there when the comp v8's are running as they lay down heaps of vht for them.

oh and a lot of the dyno's in australia tend to be quite optimistic from what i've seen. i used to read an ozzie car mag a lot and found it hard to believe a lot of the quoted figures in there running standard hardware.

you might find success with 110 octane gas and a little more boost.
have you got a front mount yet? that would probly bring the intake temps down a bit at higher boost levels.

[Lith]

Nice time Avinesh You might be pushing hard to gain another 10kph, but sounds like you do have gains to be had Traction must have been pretty good for a 2.15! I ran ~2.3 for my 13.3 and I was getting off the line cleaner than most of the road tired 2WD turbos at the drags I raced at, or did you have some semi slicks or something?

Sounds like I might have to go up to NSDW.

the track prep in australia is on a whole different level to ours. i've never driven at meremere, but masterton isnt that good. you really want to get there when the comp v8's are running as they lay down heaps of vht for them.

oh and a lot of the dyno's in australia tend to be quite optimistic from what i've seen. i used to read an ozzie car mag a lot and found it hard to believe a lot of the quoted figures in there running standard hardware.

Track prep in Oz is a lot better, and Meremere on a good day is on a higher level that Masterton - especially Mastertons first couple of meets. The Oz dynos read LOWER than ours though, not higher.... from what I've seen so far anyway.

[avinesh]

naa man was on some cheap street tyres lol an yes the aussi dyno reads lower they use dyno dynamics which read quite low thats what i got my car dynoed on though didnt think it really made 220plus at the wheels till i went to the track an ran a 13.3 was very happy with it mmmmm yea i heard down pipe gives good gains on 1jzs is that rite or a load of crap an also heard cam gears give good gains.....

[blackmk3]

Not so entirely sure about the 1jz but i would say the stock downpipe is very restrictive like most turbo cars, the wastgate port usually opens up into a flat piece of downpipe, restricing flow

It was like that on my 7M anyway

Good times by the way specially for a big car...dammit maybe i shoud be running jz

[Lith]

naa man was on some cheap street tyres lol an yes the aussi dyno reads lower they use dyno dynamics which read quite low thats what i got my car dynoed on though didnt think it really made 220plus at the wheels till i went to the track an ran a 13.3 was very happy with it mmmmm yea i heard down pipe gives good gains on 1jzs is that rite or a load of crap an also heard cam gears give good gains.....

Most turbo cars get good gains by doing the dump pipe- at least on my Skyline I did, it was actually mostly spool and midrange I gained with mine.... but the Skyline comes with a stupidly undersized turbo. The twins on the 1JZGTE at least don't COMPLETELY choke it.

I think I ran 165-169kph with just over 200rwkw in the Skyline, so 220rwkw for ~170kph sounds reasonable. Auto means you can stay on the throttle the whole way - though I gained quite a lot of power to get up to 180kph trap speeds.

[avinesh]

naa man was on some cheap street tyres lol an yes the aussi dyno reads lower they use dyno dynamics which read quite low thats what i got my car dynoed on though didnt think it really made 220plus at the wheels till i went to the track an ran a 13.3 was very happy with it mmmmm yea i heard down pipe gives good gains on 1jzs is that rite or a load of crap an also heard cam gears give good gains.....

Most turbo cars get good gains by doing the dump pipe- at least on my Skyline I did, it was actually mostly spool and midrange I gained with mine.... but the Skyline comes with a stupidly undersized turbo. The twins on the 1JZGTE at least don't COMPLETELY choke it.

I think I ran 165-169kph with just over 200rwkw in the Skyline, so 220rwkw for ~170kph sounds reasonable. Auto means you can stay on the throttle the whole way - though I gained quite a lot of power to get up to 180kph trap speeds.

yea but auto also means more power loss an slower gear change i guess mmmm i wouldnt be too sure about the stock twins man those things are tiny an i mean tiny u would be suprised at how tiny they are..........

[Lith]

auto also means more power loss an slower gear change i guess mmmm i wouldnt be too sure about the stock twins man those things are tiny an i mean tiny u would be suprised at how tiny they are..........

Yeah I definitely follow in terms of the auto - in drag racing ANY time not adding speed is bad. There is definitely greater power loss, the thing is clearly making some decent grunt. An advantage with the auto is the earlier you can add speed the better, so even if the shift is slower you have been accelerating the whole time... of course it depends on how its let you launch (2.15 is VERY good for a FR turbo car on normal road tires) and where it shifts. Notice drag autos are the way to go for people who can't afford slider/sequential transmission setups?

I know how small the 1JZGTE turbos are, and its true though doesn't change the fact there is still two of them. The turbos that come on single turbo Skylines (ie, GTS25t) have a reasonable frame size but the wheels in them are worse than a joke, especially for a 2.5litre. The turbine wheel on an R33 GTS25t turbo is the same as what RB26DETTs have two of - or the same as what Nissan put on the old Exa Turbo 1.6litre engines

An EVO TD05's turbine wheel looks almost twice as big!! This is where a lot of the RB25 not being that strong or good myth comes from - especially when people try and push the stock turbo hard, you get sky high turbine pressure and exhaust gas forcing its way back into the motor... heating up the combustion area and making things very bad. This is also why the ceramic turbos on Nissans are more inclined to blow than others, the sheer force put on the shaft etc from the pressure.

Anyway, there is a direction I am heading with here - I don't know exactly how well the stock 1JZGTE turbos flow, but I know that when you realistically max out the RB25 turbo at ~7-8psi on an RB25 you get minimal power gains in the high revs when doing a dump pipe etc - the midrange (ie, before the turbo isn't working quite so hard) you get gains. No matter what it will make a faster car.... how much faster depends partly on how much left the turbos have to give, if that makes sense. If you can get a better intercooler (if you don't already) you can drop the amount of effort the compressors are putting in to make a given power level....

[avinesh]

had a look at the stock downpipe an they are sort of like a t piece the two turboz are actually competing with each other to let exhaust gases out coz from the design it looks like their exiting gases colide with each other an create pressure hope fully changing to an after market downpipe will give a decent gain an maybe even prolong the life of the turbo........an yes sorry dont have much experience with the rb25s but the 1jz i guess is its direct competition so they must be similer.....but yea i really didnt expect it to hit low 13 with 171 trap speed in a tank like the soarer with just lil things done coz a mates skyline 25t was hittin low 14s with same mods at 163km/h soo i thought u know id be slower then that being an auto with no LSD an much heavier

[Lith]

Only guy I know who has done a before and after with a 1JZ with a dump pipe was running a single turbo VVTi one so I can't really comment, though his definitely really woke up. The TT 1JZGTEs DEFINITELY have substantially higher flowing turbos than RB25DETs, RB25 turbos can't really crack 210kw on a Dyno Dynamics and even to make that much power you are being very mean to everything involved.

This is why I have upgraded the turbo on mine before I'm really trying to make big power, I have too much mechanical sympathy haha.

[audi man]

Good work mate Most of the Aussie cars that run good times compared with NZ use two speed autos :S Who says autos are nothing but slush boxes

lol i run a flat 1.7 60,foot with a auto and thats just driving off the line,pluss i am running 11.1sec on pump gas, you dont need to run race gas unless you are pushing big boost or addvanced your timing.

[BlakeNZ]

the dump pipes from Marlew engineering in australia will gain you 15rwkW on the 1jz. they are a work of art, not cheap.unique autosports also do a cheaper(but still effective) version. retarding the exhaust cam 6 degrees will gain you 10rwhp,at the expense of low- mid range. most opt for a 4 degree retard which gives about 6rwhp, without losing mid range. the dump pipes get the heat away from the ceramics, and hence they will last heaps longer.the best money you can spend is about 400 bucks AU, getting a stage 1.5 shift kit from MV automatics,it will gain you up to half a second down the strip( equivalent to gaining about 30rwkW!)
also, redline in wellington have front mount intercooler kits available for the jzz30 for about 580 dollars- good value. a big front mount gains 15-20 rwkW on the 1jz.the standard one gets heat soaked on the dyno. it also has a boost drop across the core of about 2psi, compared to a 600x300x75mm bar and plate core having about .5 psi drop at same boost levels.the bigger core flows 496cfm at 28" H20,compared to standard cooler flowing 213 cfm.
heaps more left in your car dude. 13.3@170km/h with minimal mods is hard!!!

[avinesh]

the dump pipes from Marlew engineering in australia will gain you 15rwkW on the 1jz. they are a work of art, not cheap.unique autosports also do a cheaper(but still effective) version. retarding the exhaust cam 6 degrees will gain you 10rwhp,at the expense of low- mid range. most opt for a 4 degree retard which gives about 6rwhp, without losing mid range. the dump pipes get the heat away from the ceramics, and hence they will last heaps longer.the best money you can spend is about 400 bucks AU, getting a stage 1.5 shift kit from MV automatics,it will gain you up to half a second down the strip( equivalent to gaining about 30rwkW!)
also, redline in wellington have front mount intercooler kits available for the jzz30 for about 580 dollars- good value. a big front mount gains 15-20 rwkW on the 1jz.the standard one gets heat soaked on the dyno. it also has a boost drop across the core of about 2psi, compared to a 600x300x75mm bar and plate core having about .5 psi drop at same boost levels.the bigger core flows 496cfm at 28" H20,compared to standard cooler flowing 213 cfm.
heaps more left in your car dude. 13.3@170km/h with minimal mods is hard!!!

hey man what have you done to your soarer to get into the 12s cheers an any idea what the price of the downpipe is the expensive an the cheaper one an how can i get them cheers