ae92 w/ 20v silvertop wont start ...?

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ae92 w/ 20v silvertop wont start ...?

Postby gmacrae » Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:37 pm

Just put the new silvertop/ecu/loom/gearbox in my ae92 fxgt and it fired up fine a few times yesterday (just idling in the driveway) but now wont start at all after the last time i shut it down at about 8pm. It turns over no problem but wont fire.

Fuel pump is pumping fine (had to rig new relay). Tested spark - fine. Injectors were firing fine yesterday so i assume they're ok. If i unhook one of the brake booster lines and crank it, i get a puff of fuel mist shoot out after cranking it so i assume fuel is getting in there fine. ALso, rigged the multimeter to one of the injector plugs, gave a reading for both voltage and hertz/duty cycle on cranking so i gather they're firing.

Also, regarding guages, i hooked the oil press and water temp guages up to the stock silvertop senders and neither guage responds properly. The oil pressure guage jumps right up to max as soon as the ignition's turned on (not even running) and water temp would go up and down like a yo yo (max, min, max etc). The engine never ran for long enough to actually get hot. Its full of new coolant.

Any ideas of things i should go check? /confused /stressed

Cheers - Gene
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Postby touge rolla » Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:59 pm

stock silvertop oil sender is a switch. ie on/off for your warning light. gauge needs a proper variable sender (should come with gauge)
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Postby 85AW20v » Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:01 pm

You need the oil pressure sender off the bluetop to make the gauge read right. If the engine runs then dies it could be the earth off the AFM needs connecting - white/black I think. Had that trouble when I fittted the 20v to my AW.
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Postby gmacrae » Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:59 pm

Ahh, ok that explains the oil pressure, sweet ill rip the sender back off the other engine... any other ideas?
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Postby gmacrae » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:33 pm

grounded the grn/red and wht/blk AFM wires as the manual i've got says they're something to do with grounding with the circuit open relay (fuel pump) - no difference. Shit this is confusing
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Postby ChaosAD » Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:23 pm

can you check for codes like on the bluetop? or do you need an obdII cable?
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Postby gmacrae » Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:31 pm

yep, checked for codes, none at all - but does run the code for AFM when i unplug it so the ecu knows whats going on
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Postby gmacrae » Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:40 pm

UPDATE: Error code 31 - vacuum sensor? wth is the vacuum sensor?
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Postby ChaosAD » Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:11 pm

map sensor, but silvertop has afm. maybe its ur afm?
find a code list for the silvertop as it may be slightly different
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Postby Trls250s » Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:13 am

I was going to say, i dont think Silver tops have a Map/Vacuum sensor.

Did you wire the loom from scratch or use a factory one?
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 18, 2007 1:12 pm

that code 31 goes away when the afm is plugged back in. Tried another AFM, no difference. The car should start even with no AFM tho right?
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:04 pm

OK, definitely have injector pulse as well, checked with a noid light i borrowed. One thing im thinking of, cam timing. Dont see how this could've changed since the engine was running but im running out of ideas. Any chance the VVT is constantly on? The intake cam wheel is lined up using the big dot, but about 10 teeth past this big dot, there is a small dot (about the same size as the one on the exhaust wheel - is it maybe supposed to be lined up with this small dot?
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Postby Toymad » Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:57 pm

gmacrae wrote:grounded the grn/red and wht/blk AFM wires as the manual i've got says they're something to do with grounding with the circuit open relay (fuel pump) - no difference. sh*t this is confusing


I've just done this swap and I'm sure I didn't ground the Green/Red wire. If you did, how are you getting the Circuit Open relay to engage for the fuel pump?? The Green/Red wire grounds through the AFM and in doing so, grounds the Circuit Open relay's coil for the fuel pump when it is not starting.

Make sense?
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:07 pm

Toymad wrote:
gmacrae wrote:grounded the grn/red and wht/blk AFM wires as the manual i've got says they're something to do with grounding with the circuit open relay (fuel pump) - no difference. sh*t this is confusing


I've just done this swap and I'm sure I didn't ground the Green/Red wire. If you did, how are you getting the Circuit Open relay to engage for the fuel pump?? The Green/Red wire grounds through the AFM and in doing so, grounds the Circuit Open relay's coil for the fuel pump when it is not starting.

Make sense?
David


Circuit open relay is not being used, couldnt quite work out how is was supposed to be rigged (still dont) so i just set up a normal relay to power the fuel pump. The fuel pump is definitely running (and was working fine 2 weeks ago).
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Postby Toymad » Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:27 pm

gmacrae wrote:Circuit open relay is not being used, couldnt quite work out how is was supposed to be rigged (still dont) so i just set up a normal relay to power the fuel pump. The fuel pump is definitely running (and was working fine 2 weeks ago).


Missed in the first post where you had said that about the relay....
I'd re-check earths from the ecu and the coil/igniter area, but you said it was all running until you turned it off.
I can't help any further than this - I'd have to look and listen. Sorry.
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:33 pm

the coil and ignitor are actually currently earthed to the strut tower with one of the ground straps - cant get much better than that. Thanks anyway tho :)

Anyone know which of the intake cam marks are sposed to be lined up @ tdc? big dot or little dot?
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Postby ChaosAD » Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:05 pm

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Postby 85AW20v » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:31 pm

Have a look down the oil filler hole and on the intake cam, there should be an indent in the cam lining up with the plate that sort of half covers the oil filler hole. When no 1 piston is at TDC the indent should be lined up. There are cutouts on the ali plate behind the cam pulleys that the plastic cover bolts to, that should line up with the dots on the cam pulleys. I'm not sure what the 2 dots on the inlet pulley are for but only one of them is right!!
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:59 pm

Cheers chaosAD for the manuals, they dont really show which mark on the intake camwheel im sposed to be using though. When i get some time i'll just pull the cam cover off and check what cam's doing what to work it out.

Simon, thanks for that, i've got the marks lined up with the notches in the alum plate behind the wheels, but still not sure which mark im sposed to be using, what the hell is the point of the other mark on the wheel? dammit toyota
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Postby gmacrae » Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:35 pm

I spotted the hole in the intake cam, lines up with the big dot in the pulley so its not cam timing... back to the drawing board... anyone got a silvertop manual ecu they wanna sell me cheap?
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