Fuel question

[eskimo]

Hey,

Quick question, GF just bought a libero GT manul, against me trying to get her to buy a caldina GT. the thing has been run on 91, any issue if i was to switch it to 98, or should i try 95 for awile then 98.

Or should i just play it safe and leave it on 91.

Any comments apprciated

Cheers
Jordon

[snwtoy]

Leave it on 91... it will have issues sooner or later because of it (aren't they designed to run on 100 octane in japan?). Then you can say "neeh neeh told you so.. should have bought the toyota"

[Bling]

lol snwtoy

98 will be better, probably a good idea to change

[sergei]

watch out for noisy lifters, whiny turbo, whiny rear diff, actually just get rid of it, I am sure some one from Otara is happy to take it off your hands.

[eskimo]

lol, yea a few of my mates have said stick 98 in it and get it on a dyno and tunned, as the gf wants to modify it. Bought it as it was the tidyest one around.

[flygt4]

like any car they arent too bad if you leave them standard.

i think those are still affected by mitsi roof rust (usually requires a complete roof replacement) and as mentioned the drivetrains arent the best out there, and typical mitsi lifter click. I think the ECU's also shit themselves in them quite commonly too.

run it on a minimum 95, or 98 if you're feeling rich. the cars ECU should recognise its getting better fuel and adjust the timing to suit. there won't be much tuning that can be done on a factory ECU, but its always good to do a dynorun to check the A:F ratios are in order and there nothing alarming going on.

if you were really smart, and as there seems to be no backing off in gas prices, i would sell it and get a caldina GT nonturbo. the libero has 205hp factory and the caldina non turbo 191hp.
not a major difference in power, but way more practical and good on gas

[Brick]

only thing with those engines is yea the noisey lifters but you can use a additive to fix that and the rods dont like anymore than 18psi. usually put a rod through the block quickly.

Nothing wrong with the drivetrain, ive never had a problem with mine. Lauches with a button clutch any where from 4-7000rpm and lots of clutch kick and racing and its still sweet to date

rust is a killer, my roof is getting bad. But not all are affected

And lastly i never run anything under 98 when i had the 4g93 in my car

[eskimo]

Sweet, has no noises from the turbo or diffs, no"mitsy ticking" either. bog stardard, just wanting to know if it will throw a wobbly if we started running it on a higer octane fuel. hoping the ecu will figue out its a little richer and sort its self out.

[stalker]

Just a side note = when the lifters do start to tick (and they will one day ), "Proma MBL8" is the best thing since slice bread to stop it.
You could almost start using it now, just put it in everytime you do an oil change just to start the prevention process.

[method]

Reset the ECU after you fill up on the 98 and drive it kinda aggressively. The ecu will auto learn and you will get better results.

[flygt4]

Just a side note = when the lifters do start to tick (and they will one day ), "Proma MBL8" is the best thing since slice bread to stop it.
You could almost start using it now, just put it in everytime you do an oil change just to start the prevention process.

generally only get a few thousand km before needing another dose, and it lasts less time the longer you use it
i just ended up using a thicker oil in my VR4 before i sold it

[gleem]

like any car they arent too bad if you leave them standard.

i think those are still affected by mitsi roof rust (usually requires a complete roof replacement) and as mentioned the drivetrains arent the best out there, and typical mitsi lifter click. I think the ECU's also sh*t themselves in them quite commonly too.

run it on a minimum 95, or 98 if you're feeling rich. the cars ECU should recognise its getting better fuel and adjust the timing to suit. there won't be much tuning that can be done on a factory ECU, but its always good to do a dynorun to check the A:F ratios are in order and there nothing alarming going on.

if you were really smart, and as there seems to be no backing off in gas prices, i would sell it and get a caldina GT nonturbo. the libero has 205hp factory and the caldina non turbo 191hp.
not a major difference in power, but way more practical and good on gas

re roof rust, if its a 95 on model / has the driver airbag you should be sweet as thats when they changed the glue they used in the roof, aparently the old glue held water in it or something along those lines causing it to rust easily

[fuel]

I've seen 98+ model Liberos with roof rust, they are just starting to get to the age now where it's starting to show through. It affects Lancer, Mirages and RVR/Chariots from 1991 (so even affects last of the earlier shapes) right through to 2000ish.

Yeah the glue (kindly supplied by 3M) reacts with water and promoted rust between the roof skin and supports. The darker coloured models are affected the most. If you have time, pull the roof lining out (it's just a big sheet of fabric backed card) and check for corrosion between the skin and supports where the glue is.