Was Lanzar VIBE438....Now - 5UPRAH's boot install

[cat007]

Amp specs:
4 x 175 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
4 x 350 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
2 x 700 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
4 x 300 Watts at 2 Ohms RMS

Sub specs: (2 of)
400 watts RMS
800 watts MAX
4 ohms per voice coil - dual voice coil per sub

Do I bridge to 2 chanels and run it in parallel to the subs or do I run each chanel to each of the 4 coils?

[pjay]

Just one channel to each voice coil man (4 ohm load). Make sure your gains are balanced though

or

run both subs wired together to produce a 4 ohm load (parallel Voice coils, and series subs) off two bridged channels, and your front speakers (assuming you have some decent ones) off the remaining two channels..

or

buy a mono

i hope i thought of that right..?

[cat007]

Just one channel to each voice coil man (4 ohm load). Make sure your gains are balanced though

or

run both subs wired together to produce a 4 ohm load (parallel Voice coils, and series subs) off two bridged channels, and your front speakers (assuming you have some decent ones) off the remaining two channels..

or

buy a mono

i hope i thought of that right..?

hmmm. I've been told to run each voice coil in parallel and therefore 2 ohms and bridge the amp.....

arrrr the decisions! Hehe

[scotty_ish]

Bridging cheap lanzar gear into 2ohms will more than likely = kaboom!!!
Amp isn't "stable" bridged into 2ohms, so will go into protect or start smoking
pjay was on the money with his post.

[cat007]

thought they were ok @ 2ohm - ah well

[scotty_ish]

Each channel is good down to 2ohm, when you bridge two channels into 2ohm you are effectively forcing each channel down to 1ohm, which is where you may encounter problems.
in saying this you may get away with it, just be aware that it's not recommended. Ive done it before and it's been fine, I'd just hate to say it will be alright and then have it blow up on you.

[cat007]

Each channel is good down to 2ohm, when you bridge two channels into 2ohm you are effectively forcing each channel down to 1ohm, which is where you may encounter problems.
in saying this you may get away with it, just be aware that it's not recommended. Ive done it before and it's been fine, I'd just hate to say it will be alright and then have it blow up on you.

Oh - good point. 1 ohm will probably be a bit much!
I'll try running all 4 chanels to all 4 voice coils.
If I'm putting say, 100watts into each voice coil, and each sub has 2 voice coils, does that mean each sub is getting 200watts? Or does it not work that way?

[scotty_ish]

Yup, thats exactly how it works.
Looking at the specs you have given in your first post you will be running 175W to each voice coil, so 350W per sub. The sub is rated at 400W so hopefully you should get some alright results.
If not Id look into getting a 800-1000WRMS monobock amp that is stable down to 1ohm and bridge all the voice coils to a 1ohm load (all + together, all - together) and use the 4channel to run some decent fronts. You'd have the makings of a fairly good system right there!

[cat007]

I think for now the Lanzar should do it's job ok.
I've got another less powerful 4 chanel I will power my fronts off - altho I'll probably only use 2 channels for the front speakers and power the tweeters off the head-deck.

I'm so sick of the, or lack of, midrange. I've got 6.5's in the doors (with tweeters in the middle of the speakers), tweeters in the front corner of the door/window bit, and 4"'s in the back.
I'm not sure how to get more mid-range.

Thoughts?

[scotty_ish]

So you are using coaxial speakers (mid and tweet together) in your doors for midbass?
Youd be better off getting a dedicated midbass driver. And dynamat extreme in the doors.
Plenty of good advice for this over on nzicemag.co.nz

[pjay]

More midrange = deaden the doors. Best thing you can do for front speakers.

DMX is good (dynamat extreme)

http://forums.nzicemag.co.nz for in depth answers

[pjay]

damn you scotty, beat me to it

[cat007]

So you are using coaxial speakers (mid and tweet together) in your doors for midbass?
Youd be better off getting a dedicated midbass driver. And dynamat extreme in the doors.
Plenty of good advice for this over on nzicemag.co.nz

Well I've got separate good tweeters in the front corner of the doors so maybe I could just rip the tweeters off (or cut the wires) on the "coaxial" ones?

What the heck is dynamat extreme?

[cat007]

dont worry - found out about dynamat xtreme.
the price seems a little EXTREME

[DeeCee]

I have cheaper if you require - its called bostik sound deadening panels - its what the panel beaters put into cars

[cat007]

I have cheaper if you require - its called bostik sound deadening panels - its what the panel beaters put into cars

How cheap is cheaper?
NO wait - I don't NEED it! Stop making me buy stuff hahaha.

On a lighter note. I'm making a fiberglass box. Almost all of it will be fiberglass, although I probably should've done the bottom in wood for flex reasons. It's going in between strut towers and will have subs facing rear of the car. Here's progress so far (red line is what I've cut out, I probably will use wood for the upright bit behind the seats):

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj12 ... sub%20box/

used pretty much 4 liters of resin and a shirt load of matting to build the base. I wanted to make it thick and solid because of the flat area's. The rest of the box should have a lot of curves.

So exciting

[Capin-Neemo]

looking good mang put up a pic when its finished would be interested to see how it goes!

[cat007]

looking good mang put up a pic when its finished would be interested to see how it goes!

Cheers. I'll take as many "progress" pictures as I can.

The subs I'm putting in were in a shithouse ported box and they cranked in that - so hopefully they'll crank in this bad boy

[cat007]

Started making my fibreglass sub box last weekend. The idea is to have it between the rear strut towers utilizing the almost useless space and encroaching only a little into actual boot space. I also have to take into consideration the rear curtain's height so its not mashed up against that.
I taped up the inside of the car where I would be applying the glass. I used masking tape for some then swiftly realized that I had bugger all so used very wide electrical tape. Which actually came off from the car easier than the masking tape as the heat+chemicals in the resin softened the tape. I also tried to use tinfoil but on any acute angles it doesn't work as it just sags. My own fault (beginners mistake)
I applied about 3 layers across the whole base. I intended on using glass for the rear of the seats but the acute angle meant it drooped so I cut it off.

Here's some pictures of the base, out of the car. I'd added a few more layers making the base very ridged and inflexible.

More pics to follow. The red line is (roughly) where I have cut. Comments please.






Cut out the back from MDF and glassed it onto the base. Held in place with short lengths of 15x15mm with hot glue.
I have only done the outside -

Here's a few pics. I'll update with what the temp supports look like.

I know it looks messy for now - I'm sure it'll clean up ok - plus its the back





Here's some of the supports I used to hold the back in place while the glass dried:







And here's one with it in place
The back I will cut to the proper length in due course



So far I've used about 4 litres resin at this point haha



So today I did a little more. I cut the sub rings/baffles out and screwed them together to make the flush mount look.
Setting up the Router:




I then realized that it takes too long and is too messy (extraction system wasn't working properly. I cut the inner circles then cut the rest with a jigsaw. Unfortunately I didn't take a lot of progress pics while doing this. I kept forgetting. OOPS

I also used a 'no more nails' type glue.






I then used a hot glue cut to glue the supports in for the rings. The good thing about hot glue is that it's not perminant and I will take most of the supports out when done I think.








Now to stretch material over the whole lot and some resin

Cheers
Hunt

[GTCRSHR]

looking really good,

i cant recommend sound deadening enough, either with dynamat or dynamat extreme it makes a huge difference, especially in the rear panels and the floor contact pauls audio in chch for this, dont bother with the bostik there are a few other brands out there as well

also you might want to look at putting some foam undernearth it before you bolt it down to the floor,(make sure you seal any bolt holes too) i have a good place i can recommend pm if interested,

where abouts are you based ?

how are you going to be finishing it off ?