Best Mounting Place in ae111

[bs]

So ive finally got off my ass and started to install my apline type x componet speakers and mid bass kit. I made up spacers for in the front ( keeping it all factory behind the door card ) with 9mm mdf, and they jsut dont fit in under the door card. And that is with as little room between the magent and the door glass ( when fully down ). Ive made up a number of spacers and all jsut dont fit. I have a router and jigsaw etc etc to make them all. But dont want to spend money for someone else to do what I can easily make myself.

Now is it necassery to have the pollysterine stuff that the window sits in when its all the way down? If not then option one would be to put the mid bass there and cut a hole. If you do need it for some god forsaken reason any ideas would be muchly appreichated.

I have the two crossvers to go in to so space could be a bit scarce.
Also I would like to keep it factory looking. I have the tweeters mounted in the wing mirror cover things to.

And should i put sounds deaneding in? And should I just use the factory wires fromt he amp to the crossovers or up grade them. As I tryed feeding the wire threw the gromlet in the door and it didn't want to know about it.

Cheers Steven

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[Chasermk2]

hey mate, ive just added you on msn, ill help you out.

[Subway]

What model type x's are they? they don't look like type x's (crossovers look different, mids look different, plus the type x's are a 2 way, not 3 way set). You shouldn't have any problems, I just finished putting a set of dls ms6a's into my ae111 and I had no mounting problems, and by the looks of it mine have a deeper mounting depth.

Ok, for starters you should only really need the type x mids, not the other mids (what ever they are). If you get rid of the other mids everything will fit easy. You can run additional cabling, I did, I used a coat hanger and some crc, it will fit.

If you want both mids you should create fibreglass pods, its the only real answer.

[Chasermk2]

they are Type X's, older series iirc and he has the middbass kit ( making it a 3 way set )

[Subway]

they are Type X's, older series iirc and he has the middbass kit ( making it a 3 way set )

I see now. I don't think its going to fit at all, you will most likely need to build pods.

[Chasermk2]

he could just cut the doorcard around the speakers, and put grills over them to protect. I would also mount the crossovers in the glovebox. i Did this in my Ae111 and it worked a treat!

[Chasermk2]

OH yeah and As for the rubber gromit too the door. best trick for that is coathanger wire, tape a length of thin ish wire to the end and slowy work the coathanger through ( its hard going but it can be done )

[Subway]

he could just cut the doorcard around the speakers, and put grills over them to protect. I would also mount the crossovers in the glovebox. i Did this in my Ae111 and it worked a treat!

Same, mine are in the glove box, Was a good excuse to run new wiring anyway.

[BigDon]

This is what I did with my mb quart 3 ways. Its the totally lazy way of doing it. But Im over car stereo. Still sounds ok.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=5 ... =574193687

To get wires through the grommets I find old curtain wire, the plastic covered stuff, with some crc on it works well (with the new wire taped to the end). Def upgrade your speaker wire.

Another way is to cut the old wires and then tape the new ones to them them pull them back through.

[bs]

Yeah they are a 3 way set. id pefere to keep them behind the door card. But if i have to i will get 2nd hand door cards and make some pods.

Crossovers in the glove box is a good option to.

Would it matter if i was to mount the mid mass speaker more towards the center or other end of the door, as it is bass only coming out so shouldnt matter about the speaker holes thing?

[BigDon]

Why put the x-overs in the glove box? They will fit behind the door cards, take a look at the link I posted. I used double sided tape to attach them.

This way your not running 3 pairs of speaker wires from the door through the gromet and into the glove box. Plus if you did that the speaker wire run/s from the drivers side will be much longer, which is not ideal.

From experience you will struggle to get them behind the door card. Understand why you want to for stealth reasons though.

Also where is your amp and power cable. You want to be careful with where you run the wires to help limit interference.

[Chasermk2]

Glove box is better than inside the door because of the amount of water / moisture that pours through your door. water + electronic circuitry = bad
plus itl only be two wires through the gromit, which is not hard.

With the middbass driver it Ideally needs its own enclosure to perform as it was designed ( thus why people make sealed pods with each speaker having its own enclosure ) just fixing it too the door card will not be very good as it has no solid surface to be mounted to and will rattle your doorcard to bits. plus it will be basically Free air ( not ideal. )

what I did with my Ae111 was Dynamatted the doors and fully sealed off all the access holes in the door thus creating a proper ( but still not ideal ) enclosure for the speakers. this made a dramatic improvement to volume and midbass!

Another option for your Type X components is mount them in the kicks and your midbass in the doors.

[BigDon]

I agree that inside the door cavity is bad. But outside the door cavity on the door trim is a good place. If you are getting moisture in the door trim the inside of the car will be getting damp as well.

If you mount the the x-overs in the glove box you will need to run the tweet, mid and mid bass wiring through the grommet so thats three pairs of wires running from the door to the glove box.

The mid bass should have its own enclosure, but if you dont want build outs mountng in the door card does not sound rattley.

The problem with build outs in the kicks is in the ae111 on the drivers side there is a fuse box and the clearance between the accelerator and the kick is not great esp if you have large feet. On the passenger side it would prob be fine but their is a junction box behind that kick.

[Chasermk2]

best bet for 3 ways is door pods.
Speakers ( especially midbass ) need a solid surface to be mounted too to produce decent bass. mounting to your doorcard is like using cardboard for a speaker spacer... i would not recommend it..

[Subway]

Its easier to just run them into the glovebox or under the seat tbh. You should ideally be running new wiring from the headunit to the crossovers, plus, depending on the size of the crossovers (with my DLS they were huge), they wouldnt fit under the kicks, or in the door panels comfortably. But as Chaser said, pods are the best option for 3 ways. Moisture will always get inside the doorpanel considering water will come through on the window (its only as good as its seals).

Btw I still need to dmx my doors

[bs]

I wouldnt moun t the speakers straight to the door card. If iwas going to do that id put a sheet of mdf on it and match it up with fibre glass.

Putting the crossovers in the glove box wouldnt be an option unless i made another gromlette as yes I have to feed 3 pairs of wires threw.

I will run new wires to and from everything. OFC of course.

Atm the amp is mounted on the raer flip down seat, with the batter in the boot. And had no trouble with it what so ever with the sub. Got a little bit hot after a wee wile but nothing to dramatic.

Yes it is ideal to make each the own little pod to house them in, But with the amount of room the speaker's will jsut fit in them selfs.

Woudl there be a problem with mounting the midbass in say the middle or in the end of the door card ( end being side towards the rear of the car ) ? As its jsut bass and should travel threw the plastic door card alright?

[Chasermk2]

only bass frequencys below 80 hz iirc are non directional, even so having it behind the doorcard will sound like crap, you may as well not have them at all

[BigDon]

Those mid bass will need to still play up quite high well over 80hz in the freq range otherwise there will be a freq gap btw them an your 5/1/4s.

Behind the doors wont sound the best but you will still get some bass up front. To help the over 80hz freqs based on where you want to place them you could drill out some of the factory door speaker grill that is solid (not perforated). or some how look to extend the perforation further.

Also do the x-overs have a infrasonic filter? You will want to make sure those mid basses are not playing to low as well as to high (but the x-over will take care of the high side) so see if your amp has one or see if you can high pass your amp at 30hz to create a band pass with the x-over.

[bs]

Well I was gonig to run them with two inputs, One feeding the crossover for the mid bass and one for the componet. And then set the freq fromt he headunit.

But right now after spendign the hole weekend trying to find a space for the crossovers inside of the door and not being able to has just made me give up almost.

I moved the bid bass from the photos to the center of the door were it fits in nicely. But then theres no room for the crossovers.
The mid bass and compnet didn't fit together up front buy the original hole thing.

Also thinking of selling the ae111 now and getting somthing with a bit more grunt.

[BigDon]

I would run 2 channels of amplifcation to the components. If possible set to a high pass of btw 100-120hz*. This doesnt mean that the speakers wont play anything under 100-120hz but it will be cut off gradually at 12db per octave (most likely or 18 db if your lucky).

I would then, if you can, run another 2 channels of amplification to the mid bass xovers. If possible high passed at maybe 20-30hz. This should create a band pass. *What you should check is what hz the x-over for the mid bass is set to cut off and match the component x-over points accordingly.

Im guessing you either have a 4ch or two 2ch amps to run this as Im sure your not going to the effort of 3 ways and running them off the
hu? Esp as you have the mid bass which will need some grunt.

To fit the x-overs behind the door you will need to remove the plastic cross hatched box thing that is attached by two plastic welds (its white from memory). Comes off easy. Take a look at the link to the photos of my ae111 cards and you will see where.