Spotweld - Removing.

General discussions on all non technical car related topics

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Spotweld - Removing.

Postby neo » Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:36 pm

Is anyone here a panel beater? :?:

So what’s the best method of separating 2 pieces of steel that are spot welded together?

I want to keep the lower piece as it is, top one can sustain some damage.. I don’t like the idea of grinding off the top one, I thought there must be some special drill bit that effectively scribes out the top piece around the weld?..

Suggestions and comments please.

Cheers
User avatar
neo
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1965
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 1:04 am
Location: Crazy Car Motorsport

Postby Titties » Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:40 pm

dont you get a zero degree drill bit and drill out the spot weld. if you do it properly it will leave a hole in the top layer without damaging the lower layer.

Cheers, Mike
'98 RS200 Altezza - SOLD
'96 Mitsi Mirage, 11.12 @ 124mph (200kph)
Titties
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 140
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2004 11:26 pm
Location: West Auckland

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:43 pm

yeah the most common way ive heard of is drilling them out...
Image
User avatar
l1ttle_d3vil
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2639
Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2004 10:22 pm
Location: Bay of Plenty

Postby neo » Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:47 pm

User avatar
neo
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1965
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 1:04 am
Location: Crazy Car Motorsport

Postby Truenotch » Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:19 pm

Just go to your local tool shop / engineering shop and ask for a spot weld drill, probably 8mm will be what you want.
User avatar
Truenotch
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1960
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:41 pm
Location: Hamilton

Postby Crucible » Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:38 pm

yeah buy a spot weld drill bit as suggested, they sorta look like a Wood hole saw but on a smaller scale.
User avatar
Crucible
Real Life Mechanic
 
Posts: 1438
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:46 am
Location: Wellington

Postby fuel » Sat Oct 04, 2008 7:38 pm

I've been wanting to do the same thing, although I didn't mind if a hole went through the second layer of metal too.

I went looking for a spot weld drill at tool places, price was around $20 just for the drill bit :(

anyone know where you can get them quite cheap?
LOUD NOISES!!!
User avatar
fuel
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1532
Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2004 1:59 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Postby Bling » Sat Oct 04, 2008 7:48 pm

if you don't care about the 2nd layer of metal just use a normal drill bit :)
User avatar
Bling
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 15990
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:02 pm
Location: Quake City

Postby Jdawg » Sat Oct 04, 2008 7:57 pm

fuel wrote:I've been wanting to do the same thing, although I didn't mind if a hole went through the second layer of metal too.

I went looking for a spot weld drill at tool places, price was around $20 just for the drill bit :(

anyone know where you can get them quite cheap?


That is quite cheap. If you find them any cheaper don't expect them to last very long.
Jdawg
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 637
Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:46 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby RS13 » Sat Oct 04, 2008 8:07 pm

To drill through a single layer of sheet, we make a couple of sheet metal (zero angle) drill bits out of normal drill bits of the same size, say 10mm.

You use the first bit (with the angle spigot) to start the hole, and make a 10mm circular recess halfway through the sheet.

Image

Then with the second bit, you grind off the spigot and even slightly "dish" the cutting faces, then drill to the second layer.

Image

And then just work them apart. Its' a pretty time consuming way of doing it, but it'd be a damn sight cheaper. If you don't know how to grind out a normal drill to sheetmetal-spec, any decent engineer could do it easily.
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

Image
User avatar
RS13
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3580
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:07 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby Truenotch » Sun Oct 05, 2008 1:11 am

Just buy a spot weld drill. Last one I sold was $15 retail from memory, and was good quality.

PM me if you'd like me to sort one, otherwise just go into your local tool shop and get them to find either a Bordo or Sutton spot drill for you. They are reasonable on price.
User avatar
Truenotch
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1960
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:41 pm
Location: Hamilton

Postby evil_si » Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:43 am

RS13 wrote:To drill through a single layer of sheet, we make a couple of sheet metal (zero angle) drill bits out of normal drill bits of the same size, say 10mm.

You use the first bit (with the angle spigot) to start the hole, and make a 10mm circular recess halfway through the sheet.

Then with the second bit, you grind off the spigot and even slightly "dish" the cutting faces, then drill to the second layer.
And then just work them apart. Its' a pretty time consuming way of doing it, but it'd be a damn sight cheaper. If you don't know how to grind out a normal drill to sheetmetal-spec, any decent engineer could do it easily.


IMO that sounds like a fu*k load of work and time

id much rather spend the $20 and get the right tool that will do it in no time,
User avatar
evil_si
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2353
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2003 6:19 pm
Location: TAURANGA, Pyes Pa

Postby neo » Sun Oct 05, 2008 11:24 am

evil_si wrote:
IMO that sounds like a fu*k load of work and time

id much rather spend the $20 and get the right tool that will do it in no time,


The spot weld drill bit's that I got off Worth look like the drill bit used in part one.

The concave bit is what I was initially trying to find :)
User avatar
neo
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1965
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 1:04 am
Location: Crazy Car Motorsport

Postby RS13 » Sun Oct 05, 2008 12:31 pm

neo wrote:The concave bit is what I was initially trying to find :)


Pays to have both, without drilling a pilot hole for the concave bit, its' near impossible to stop it wandering all over the place, lol.

evil_si wrote:IMO that sounds like a fu*k load of work and time


Yeah, but you only use a couple of $2 drill bits, and it doesn't take THAT long. Plus you can keep sharpening them, and you get a good result.
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

Image
User avatar
RS13
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3580
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:07 pm
Location: Christchurch


Return to General Car Discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests

cron