AE101 diagnostics?

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AE101 diagnostics?

Postby RS13 » Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:20 pm

Hi guys,

I'd like to know how to run diagnostics in an AE101, I can't seem to find the actual method when searching?

Every time the car is filled up, after 10mins of driving it starts bogging badly, hestitating around 2000rpm, not wanting to rev out, and induction noise is clearly decreased. It doesn't matter wether its' warm or cold. If you disconnect the battery for a while to reset everything, the car goes completely back to normal, until you put more gas in the tank.

I'm sure that its' not the petrol itself, normally 95 and occasionally 98. When the car is running well, it runs beautifully and revs cleanly to redline, however top it up and its' back to running like a dog until the ECU is reset.

Thoughts? I'm leaning towards 02 sensor, I figured that if it were TPS or AFM, it wouldn't go away as easily as it does. Car is bone standard, down to factory airbox, exhaust (with cat), and has done nearly 200,000km.

Cheers. :)
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:46 pm

Open the diagnostic box, and bridge E1 &T1, then turn the key on and count the check light flashes ;)
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Postby rollaholic » Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:49 pm

does it only do it when its full to the brim?

if so, and its fitted with an evap canister it might be something in this line - something wrong with the system thats supposed to keep liquid fuel out of evap canister or something

bit of a random guess really, but odd symptom!
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Postby RS13 » Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:58 pm

Thanks Dell'Orto.

rollaholic wrote:does it only do it when its full to the brim?

if so, and its fitted with an evap canister it might be something in this line - something wrong with the system thats supposed to keep liquid fuel out of evap canister or something

bit of a random guess really, but odd symptom!


Nope, does it regardless of amount of fuel that gets put in.
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby RS13 » Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:05 pm

Oh, and I've found the ECU codes, however if everything is okay, does it have a "no fault" code, or does it just not flash?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:20 pm

if everything is ok, it will just flash a steady rhythm
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Postby neo » Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:15 pm

Its not the oxy sensor sending random signals once its warm?
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Postby darkwolf » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:11 pm

I Have the same thing on my Celica. Is a pod filter installed by chance.

I have narrowed it down to 1 of two things that I did.
1) Install pod filter (though I think it was happening before then)
2) When I accidentally (as if I'd do it on purpose) tapped the throttle position sensor block thingee where the intake connects to the engine with the 8 GA wire going to the amp while inserting the fuse after installing amp.
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Postby RS13 » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:52 pm

Nope, its' a 20V so TPS is at other end of inlet manifold.

Neo, that is my best guess.. however, after having a look, I find that it doesn't appear to have an "T1", I have a "TE1" and a "TE2", is one of those what I'm after?

Its' such an annoying problem, I really am hoping that its' the O2 sensor!
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby blackmk3 » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:14 pm

If it was a faulty O2 sensor it would come up with a ecu code....

TE1 is what your after, TE1 and E1 short them and the engine check light will flash, if there's no code stored it will just flash equally every 2seconds or something, but if there's a fault it will flash for example 5times then a gap then twice, indicating a code 52, being a knock sensor fault

Heres the link to Toyota Diagnostics :)
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/

I personally would open up the ecu and check to see if the capacitors are leaking....did this in my girlfriends ae101, did all sorts of random things, and gave many different fault codes
Checked the ecu and sure enough the caps were leaking, a local electronics guru fixed them for me, im pretty sure some toyspeed populace fix them? or have many spares? might be something to check anyway. ecus under stereo in front of gear shifter
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Postby RS13 » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:33 pm

Thanks mate. I've already opened up the ECU, it looks mint inside, no evidence of any failed capacitors.

And the engine is standard as, no pod filter.

I've just done the diagnostic, the CEL just flashed away, no codes stored.

:?
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby 85AW20v » Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:22 pm

Random thought here - try it without the fuel cap on after filling it. Could be a blocked breather to the fuel tank......
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Postby blackmk3 » Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:22 am

RS13 wrote:Thanks mate. I've already opened up the ECU, it looks mint inside, no evidence of any failed capacitors.

And the engine is standard as, no pod filter.

I've just done the diagnostic, the CEL just flashed away, no codes stored.

:?


Has the car played up since the last time you reset the ecu?, keep a paperclip in the car with you and print the codes, then when it plays up you can do some roadside diogonistics :wink:

But if its not ecu related..maybe a blocked fuel filter? F1 im pretty sure (dont quote me better to resurch) and E1 gets the fuel pump up and running, could be stopping intermittently?
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Postby RS13 » Fri Oct 24, 2008 4:49 pm

Simon85MR220v wrote:Random thought here - try it without the fuel cap on after filling it. Could be a blocked breather to the fuel tank......


Yeah, good point, might try that when it starts playing up again.

Yeah, it does have an incredible amount of vacuum when you remove the cap to fill it, but this would equalize tank pressure to atmospheric pressure, making it far easier for the pump. And besides, that isn't something that would go away with an ECU reset.

Hmm.
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Postby AE92blktop » Fri Oct 24, 2008 5:21 pm

just a thought but could you be stirring up crap in the tank and blocking the little strainer on the pump pick up? every time you turn it off there would be no suction and what ever is blocking it may just fall off the strainer
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Postby RS13 » Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:11 pm

AE92blktop wrote:just a thought but could you be stirring up crap in the tank and blocking the little strainer on the pump pick up? every time you turn it off there would be no suction and what ever is blocking it may just fall off the strainer


How hard is it to access the pickup? Tank out?
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby 20v_rollaboy » Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:50 pm

Lift up the back seat, you will see where the pump is. Careful when removing the fuel lines, the nuts are easy to round and then you're stuffed :cry:
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Postby BZR4AGE » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:48 am

Hey RS13. Have you sorted out the issue yet? because I think I have the same problem. I've changed oxy sensor to a brand new NGK one, and didn't do any good. still bloggs at times, but less occurance. and same as you, everything is fine after reseting the ECU for a few minutes.

Cheers!
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Postby RS13 » Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:45 pm

Hey man, nope not yet! Still not showing any codes, instead of resetting the ECU I've left it for the last few days, has got to a point and doesn't seem to be getting any worse.

I have noticed that I'm using barely any gas now, even though I haven't really changed my driving style?

And also, it revs to redline, but just doesn't pull anywhere near as hard.. almost the identical fault I had in my vtec Honda when the knock sensor was buggered and was messing around with my timing. This would explain why it goes away with a reset, and comes back quickly, I'm beginning to think that it may not be related to fuel at all now, just a coincidence that it happens after a fuel stop. And my car is not noticeably knocking/detonating on any fuel.

So yeah, I think I might try get hold of another knock sensor and give that a whirl, unless there is some way of disabling it?
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby RS13 » Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:50 pm

20v_rollaboy wrote:Lift up the back seat, you will see where the pump is. Careful when removing the fuel lines, the nuts are easy to round and then you're stuffed :cry:


Oh and thanks for that man, I took it out and inspected it, nothing was obviously amiss, seal was a bit bung but nothing serious.
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