15 Amp Power tools Plasma Cutter

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Postby d1 mule » Thu Oct 23, 2008 11:49 pm

you cant get 2mm and 3mm squared cables man. as i stated earlier, in TPS you get 1mm, 1.5mm, 2.5mm, 4mm and 6mm and so on.

95% of household ranges run a 6mm squared TPS dedicated circuit.
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Postby Adoom » Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:20 am

I'll double check the wiring on the plug again, but I'm pretty sure I didnt $&#$% it up.
I've checked all the fittings a bunch of times. Its not possible to put it together the wrong way around.
I'll see if I can take it to my mechanics tomorrow morning and test it in one of their outlets.
I've tried using my extension cord from another outlet. The extension cord has 2.5mm2 cable. The wire is real fat.

I think the cutter must be faulty:(
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Postby pidge » Fri Oct 24, 2008 11:56 am

d1 mule wrote:you cant get 2mm and 3mm squared cables man. as i stated earlier, in TPS you get 1mm, 1.5mm, 2.5mm, 4mm and 6mm and so on.

95% of household ranges run a 6mm squared TPS dedicated circuit.


Whoops, my bad...
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Postby jondee86 » Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:40 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:Every new house i've worked on has a wire thicker to the cooker
(15A I guess) than the rest of the wiring, they doing it wrong these days?

Correct observation, but wrong guess at cable size. You will have also
observed that domestic hotpoint circuits are wired in 2.5mm2 TPS and
the lighting circuits wired 1.0mm2 TPS.

Why even bother running a thicker wires to a car amp if the wires
not going to make a difference?

Somewhat irrelevant comment, as the discussion was regarding low
voltage wiring, not extra low voltage.

Just doesn't make sense to me. :lol: keen to learn something tho :lol:

Commendable comment :)

Consider that a house may have only three hotpoint circuits, but the
equivalent of six or eight three pin plugs on each circuit. If you were
to plug a 2300 Watt (10 amp) heater into each available plug, you
would easily exceed the safe current for the wire. That's why there
is a 20 amp circuit breaker protecting each circuit.

Providing you only plug one 15 amp device into a circuit (using a suitably
rated socket) there is no problem in getting enough power i.e. the same
bit of 2.5mm2 wire will work just fine up to its 20 amp rating.

Bit of clarification there :)

Cheers... jondee86
1984 AE86 Corolla GT Liftback, NZ new... now with GZE
spec small port, twinscrew s/c and water/methanol injection :)

Watch this space >>> <<<
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Postby d1 mule » Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:08 pm

just so everyone knows, circuit breakers are there to protect the wiring not the thing that is connected.

ranges (ovens) are wired in 6mm squared TPS

circular FLEX has a slightly higher curent rating for the equivalent size TPS
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Postby Mike- » Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:02 pm

1.5mm2 wire will be sweet for your cutter, provided its not too far away from your switchboard, a 15amp breaker wont trip until about 22amps neway and even then it takes ages.

go to a wholesaler and pretend ur a apprentice , ask for a 15amp standard 3 pin socket and pay cash (very cheap)

when u wire in, cut the old connections off, restrip it, twist and fold (just twist if theres more than one cable)
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Postby gasman » Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:42 pm

so thats why then i bought my tig welder the earth leg of the plug was fatter. i had just assumed that since it was a chinese welder that they had gotten a score of defect plugs. so i just used the angle grinder and ground a bit of the plug off. havent had any problems so far even with the welder on max settings running for a minute or two non stop
"What can possibly go wrong?"
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Postby Adoom » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:56 pm

Mike- wrote:1.5mm2 wire will be sweet for your cutter, provided its not too far away from your switchboard, a 15amp breaker wont trip until about 22amps neway and even then it takes ages.

go to a wholesaler and pretend ur a apprentice , ask for a 15amp standard 3 pin socket and pay cash (very cheap)

when u wire in, cut the old connections off, restrip it, twist and fold (just twist if theres more than one cable)

So they are full of shit that I have to change the wiring to make the cutter work?
Because as I have said above the cutter turns on and appears fine until you press the torch button before even trying to strike an arc. Then all sorts of nothing happens and the thermal overload light turns on.
I think its faulty. I am so taking it back on monday......errrr....make that tuesday. Damn them being closed on labour day.
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Postby Adoom » Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:02 pm

Mike- wrote:1.5mm2 wire will be sweet for your cutter, provided its not too far away from your switchboard, a 15amp breaker wont trip until about 22amps neway and even then it takes ages.

Its not a breaker anyway, its one of them old as bits of wire fuses.
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Postby flygt4 » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:05 pm

Adoom you mincer.
can swing by at some point this weekend and check it out if you want.
being a registered electrician and all and i'm only up the road


can check everything is correct at the outlet and current draw is acceptable so everything is good on the socket end.
I won't be able to open it up and fix it though as itll most likely void your warranty. although i can think of a good possibility as to the fault in the unit itself :wink:

can leave you a plugin circuit breaker if you're lucky and your fuse base is the right type to accept it.
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Postby Adoom » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:28 pm

flygt4 wrote:Adoom you mincer.
can swing by at some point this weekend and check it out if you want.
being a registered electrician and all and i'm only up the road


can check everything is correct at the outlet and current draw is acceptable so everything is good on the socket end.
I won't be able to open it up and fix it though as itll most likely void your warranty. although i can think of a good possibility as to the fault in the unit itself :wink:

can leave you a plugin circuit breaker if you're lucky and your fuse base is the right type to accept it.

OMG! You're an electrician?!
I ended up taking it back and saying it was faulty. They sent it away and their sparky was all like "...never seen this before..." so it was actually faulty. They gave me a new one but it didnt arrive until today. I changed the plug to a 10Amp one again and it works fine.
I plasma'ed some panel steel I had lying around. It makes like no noise. Just the PFFFFFFFFFT of the air, then the damn compressor turns on WOOB WOOB WOOB............WOOB WOOB WOOB PFFFFFFFTTTTTSSSSSSSSSSSSSSssss
Woooo NEW TOY!!!! What can I cut now?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Nov 04, 2008 9:32 pm

Give the starvia a roof chop :D
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby Adoom » Wed Nov 05, 2008 3:58 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Give the starvia a roof chop :D
Yeh. NAH...
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:04 pm

cut the roof off the neighbours car that keep pissing ya off :lol:
2002 Altezza, 1974 KE25

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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:23 pm

Adoom wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:Give the starvia a roof chop :D
Yeh. NAH...


Why not? It'll weigh less
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby Adoom » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:54 am

Dell'Orto wrote:
Adoom wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:Give the starvia a roof chop :D
Yeh. NAH...


Why not? It'll weigh less

It will increase the Cd with no roof so the weight saving will be pointless.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Thu Nov 06, 2008 1:12 pm

No no, a roof chop like hot rodders do....take a inch or 2 out of the pillars
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby Adoom » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:13 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:No no, a roof chop like hot rodders do....take a inch or 2 out of the pillars

Oh. That would decrease the Cd and be better. But doing the doors and the glass and reangling the pillars so they line up again. Too hard basket me thinks.
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