3S-GTE Oil

[BZG Wagon]

Done to death I know; but...

I use magatec (10w40) with no issues, but I thought I might try something different for this oil change (like Castrol Edge 5w30 or Valvoline Synpower 10w30).

My GTT is generally used only for long trips and weekend driving. It doesn't burn through any oil what-so-ever (120kms).

What are peoples opinions / experiences with different oils? Is 5w30 too light for long drives (heat absorbtion issues)?

[BZG Wagon]

...also; oil filters.

Not that impressed with Repco Brand filters. Can anyone recommend a better brand / place to get them from?

[Bling]

Why fix whats not broken?

Nothing wrong with magnatec, grab a toyota filter maybe? They aren't too expensive.

my 2c.

Currently running magnatec (have done for years without issue) and toyota plugs / oil filter (thanks for Mark our sponsor)

[evil_si]

some people experience oil usage when changing oil brands and viscosities, its a wierd 'get use to stage' before the engine settles down.

very common in bigger diesel engines a truck engine can use upto 5 of its 40litres a week for a month before it settles down

from experience if you have a good oil and no problems with it stick with it.

[kim0663]

i use to use 5w50 mobil 1 on the sw20, (which was a weekend car)

It runs SOOOO nice for the first 3000kms, after that, it's not that nice so i thought i'd change this time too. and at $80 odd + toyota filter, $100 each 4500kms isn't so cheap as it's a daily driver now.

Anyone has experience with those castrol edge 5w30? $65 odd dollars, thinner too so might rev better

[Boosted_162]

i use to use 5w50 mobil 1 on the sw20, (which was a weekend car)

It runs SOOOO nice for the first 3000kms, after that, it's not that nice so i thought i'd change this time too. and at $80 odd + toyota filter, $100 each 4500kms isn't so cheap as it's a daily driver now.

Anyone has experience with those castrol edge 5w30? $65 odd dollars, thinner too so might rev better

I used to use Castrol Edge 5w30 in my SW20 (i only used it as thats what Andrew used before me). I stopped using it when my bottom end started to sound a but rattley - i suspected the oil might be a little thin. I have ended up changing to Pennzoil 10w40 in all my cars (2x3SGTE/2JZGE)

[BZG Wagon]

Why fix whats not broken?

...just wondering if there is something better out there...

My 4AGE (BZ-T) ran remarably better when I switched from GTX to Magnatec. Owning a turbo now, I suspect semi-synthetic may be nicer for the engine.

supercheap are selling Edge 5w30 for $49 so its just a few extra $$$ more than magantec.

I have ended up changing to Pennzoil 10w40 in all my cars (2x3SGTE/2JZGE)

I was looking a penzoil today. Maybe I'll give that a try (since its the same viscosity, but semi-synthetic).

i use to use 5w50 mobil 1 on the sw20, (which was a weekend car)

I'm doing roughly 10 - 15 km per year so a change every six month means roughly every 5000kms. I could probably afford that...
BTW: Wouldnt 5w50 be a bit thick for a turbo?

[Heylin]

ive clocked up over 100,000 km of driving in 6 years on my sw20 gt and havent had any problems, i use valvoline durablend now called vr1, semi synthetic and have always added proma mbl8 oil additive. repco filters. anyone that tells you u need full synthetic and fancy filters is full of it.

ive driven my sw20 for 6 yeas, town and city driving, easy and hard out, benn running 16 psi for over a year now and car has 220,000 kms on it.

if anything the best advice is change every 10,000 or 6 months, whatever comes first.

i also think proma mbl8 helps , ive used this in all my cars and clocked up over 180,000kms on all my engines trouble free.

[Twolitre]

Toyota reccomend oil changes for turbo engines every 5000Km and they also reccomend 10W30 or at least in the case of my ST185 and JZA70.
I generally use semi synthetic 10W40 although sometimes use Penrite 10W50 depending on driving style and climate.
If it were me I wouldn't go to a 5W30 I'd stick to what you're using. I'd be tempted to try a 10W30 semi synthetic but I don't think it's commonly available in NZ?

[Burning Angel]

if you want to go to a full synthetic thats not too expensive valvoline does a 5w40 that better priced than the others(shell, pennzoil).

a really nice oil would be Castrol Edge 0w40 but thats pretty expensive.

[sergei]

I use 10W60 with my GT4, it has got ~135k now, I change religiously every 5000kms, and use only Toyota genuine oil filter (if you get bored and open one up vs repco/ryco you will see the difference, also Toyota filter has a better seal which is pre-lubricated and mounted in such way that it is impossible for it to separate while handling). The engine does not consume any oil and is healthy light golden colour inside. Oil changes cost me about $110-120 (including degreaser for clean up) that which someone will pay to a grease monkey for some no brand oil and filter and questionable practices ...

[kim0663]

I'll try a 5w30 castrol edge tomorrow, see how it goes regardless...

Was so bored today that i was reading the mr2 BGB....

Learnt something new and informative. The recommended oil change interval is 8000kms for normal driving, and 16000kms for the filter. (i always thought it'd be more like 15000kms and that me changing at 5000kms was being anal)

Recommended oils (according to BGB) are

10w30
10w40
5w30



does it mean i need to choose the oils according to my climate?.... that puts me in the 10w40 which i don't want

[Lloyd]

About time someone putting up something leaning towards thinner isn't always right/better

[Adamal]

For a street car, you wouldn't want anything below a 10w oil. Anything lower and your engine probably isn't going to get hot enough to bring it down to that viscosity.

Theres actually one oil group that make a really high weight engine oil... Must look at trying some of that as it may prevent a lot of blow by I've got!

[kim0663]

engine probably isn't going to get hot enough to bring it down to that viscosity

Yes, That may be the case. BUT if i am correct, shouldn't fully synthetic oils be nearly same viscosity throughout the temperature range?

Mineral based oils, need the heat for them to get to that certain viscosity but from what i understand, fully-syn stuff is more stable thus if i selected a 5w30, it should be running that viscosity as long as it's not super cold?

if it was a mineral based type i was getting, i'd take your advice.

I wonder just HOW much thinner these oils (fully-syn) get with heat

[Lloyd]

Thats what the numbers mean on them...

And for thicker stuff, Pennzoil do a nice 25W60

[Adamal]

Mineral based oils, need the heat for them to get to that certain viscosity but from what i understand, fully-syn stuff is more stable thus if i selected a 5w30, it should be running that viscosity as long as it's not super cold?

5 weight is the thinnest the oil gets when hot, 30 weight is the thickest it gets when cold.

Mineral or Synthetic doesn't change that. Synthetic oil allows for thinner hot weight than Mineral, but thats about all. Synthetic oil bottles will say that its the way, and that Mineral based oils contain lots of 'impurities' being that its 'dug up from the ground'. I find that hard to swallow though, as I can't see any oil manufacturer lasting if their mineral oil's contained impurities which have a detrimental effect on your engine!

[kim0663]

Simply put, in my understanding
5 weight is the oil's viscosity at COLD.
30 weight is the oil's viscosity at running temp.

Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Full documentation can be viewed here

[Heylin]

I use 10W60 with my GT4, it has got ~135k now, I change religiously every 5000kms, and use only Toyota genuine oil filter (if you get bored and open one up vs repco/ryco you will see the difference, also Toyota filter has a better seal which is pre-lubricated and mounted in such way that it is impossible for it to separate while handling).

Funny, ive been using Valvoline VR1 and Repco filters for 12+ years and havent had any of those issues, all on street performance cars and all with high Kms.

Mazda Cosmo 12A Rotary - 130,000 kms - 200,000 kms
MR2 AW11 SC - 84,000 kms to 160,000 kms
SW20 GT - 116,000 kms - 220,000 kms (currently own)
Legacy B4 - 70,000 kms - 150,000 kms (currently own)

I reckon marketing people want you to believe a Toyota filter is better somehow than a Repco one and that oil should be changed every 3000km in a performance street car.

Experience (with the cars I have had) has proven to me that 3000\5000\8000 km changes are not required to make your car run well and for the engine \ turbo to last.

Belive me I dont drive like a nana, and have had a good mix of town and open road driving on all my cars.

I also think that fully synthetic oils in street performance cars are just pouring money down the drain.

Perhaps the only factor of difference between my expriences and everyone elses is the Proma MBL8 that I use in all my cars ?.

Mabye the slippery friction modifier in it has prevented the engine and turbo wear that would have normally occured with 10,000 km chanegs and semi-synth oil ??? who knows.

[mr30%jr]

im using valvo synth

at supercheap it said "most economical synthetic"

seems to not have such a noise on cold start. removing the "homomaster" oil filter and putting a TGP one on helped.

i heard thru somone who had a 2jzgte used an oil filter from repco it collapsed ran a bearing and he sued them for a rebuild and won. moral is spend 10 dollars more on TGP ones.

this is in a gen1 3sgte so i care less for oil type