Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **MR2SIK** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:51 pm

After much pissing around, we have concluded that this is the reason the car wont start. Does anyone have any hints on what to look for in an attempt to fix this on a gen3 3sgte? is there any common faults to check for an easy fix?

Ive had the link hand module on diagnostic watching the cylinder pulse signal, it stays on N during cranking, and occasionally flicks to Y where the engine coughs briefly as if its about to start, before dieing off again.

by **Burning Angel** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:26 pm

3sgte use reluctor sensors. If they are wired backwards the ecu wont recognize them.

the easiest way to trouble shoot is with an oscilloscope, start at the dizzy to see if your getting signal there and work your way to the ECU.

by **MR2SIK** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:19 pm

car had been running fine for around 18 months prior to it cutting out in November.

Where can I obtain one of those?

by **matt dunn** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:09 pm

try lowering the trigger levels in th link ? Or try another dist.

by **fivebob** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:18 pm

MR2SIK wrote:Ive had the link hand module on diagnostic watching the cylinder pulse signal, it stays on N during cranking, and occasionally flicks to Y where the engine coughs briefly as if its about to start, before dieing off again.

Lower your trigger levels, or replace you starter/battery as it's not cranking over fast enough to get a good signal

FWIW the trigger levels I have set on my MoTeC are 0-500rpm 0.1-0.3v, 500-1000rpm 0.3-1.2v

by **MR2SIK** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:27 pm

so a bung battery could be part of it? I know my battery is on the way out, but it hadnt caused issues in the past, only when left for a couple of weeks without use

by **matt dunn** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:30 pm

MR2SIK wrote:so a bung battery could be part of it? I know my battery is on the way out, but it hadnt caused issues in the past, only when left for a couple of weeks without use

Yeah, definatly.

by **MR2SIK** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:58 pm

just that it came straight off the charger and put back in the car, no noticeable signs of a dud battery, still had 12 volts showing on the display and dropping to around 10 when cranking, which probably isnt ideal, cranking sounded the same, as did the fuel and powersteering pumps, which are always telltale signs of a battery thats not up to spec.

by **MR2SIK** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:21 pm

damn it, broken wire right inside the plug in the distributor.

now to fork out for an auto sparky

by **fivebob** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:51 pm

Probably cheaper to get another distributer from a wrecker :wink:

by **MR2SIK** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:16 pm

nah its the plug in the loom, went and checked over the old engine to see what I could scavenge, plugs and wiring gone, at least I got a spare distributor in case

by **matt dunn** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:07 pm

20V dist is the same plug,
and ST185 GT4, possibly some of the 3VZ V6's too from memory.
heaps of toyota stuff.

I probably would have some in the boxes off looms I have but would have to cut a loom for it,

but if you get stuck or are in a hurry, I wsould do it for a price.

matt

by **MR2SIK** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:15 pm

cheers for the offer, but should be right

Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

Trigger signal (cylinder pulse) not reaching ecu

Trigger signal (cylinder pulse) not reaching ecu

Re: Trigger signal (cylinder pulse) not reaching ecu

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