Gearbox fluid/other service questions

[.samol.]

Hey i want to check the gearbox fluid in my car, can someone point out where to check it on the 4age (a paint arrow is fine)
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver ... 549338.jpg

Mine is a blacktop but i assume they will be the same.
What kind of transmission fluid is recommended? Should i flush and refill it? (i don't know when it was last changed as i only just bought the car and it doesn't have a service history)

I already have an oil filter and oil on the way courtesy of mark

Brake fluid, what colour should that be? Top up or put some new stuff in?


Fuel filter?

The cooling system? Flush and refil with some nice coolant and water?

Spark plugs? i have read the replacement is iridium's but it would seem people are saying the ngk's are ok. I want the amount of power that came from the car standard so should i get the iridiums?

Windscreen wiper change? (they arent 100%)

Brake pad's? (if i brake hard the car judders a little, including the steering wheel)

What other things should i be looking for in the service?

Would be great to get some advice plus what is reccomended to do ie oil +filter every 5k's fuel filter every 75k's etc.

I have tried searching both here a bit and google to a lesser extent.

Thanks
Sam

[Lloyd]

Right in the very middle of that pic at the bottom is a 24mm nut. Thats the filler. Fluid should be up tot hat level, when you take it off some should come out or you should at least be able to poke your little finger in and feel some fluid.

Any manual transmission oil around the 75W80 kinda weight should be fine, people will have various recommendations on here.

Brake fluid should be a light golden kinda colour. If its getting brown then probably time to change it. Proper bleed through all the wheels

Fuel filter likely never done. Worth doing

Cooling system, drain the radiator and flush. Pull a heater hose off and fluch back through. Keep going any way until you get clean water out everywhere. 3 or so litres of concentrate to fill and then top with water.

Iridiums are the type of plug not the brand, NGK make iridiums. Price genuine spark plugs also as they're getting pretty good in comparison. Standard or iridium is up to you

Wipers, just do them

Brake shudder is likely warped brake rotors. You can either replace them or get a garage/brake specialist to skim them flat again. Price both ways, likely cheaper to get them skimmed if they aren't too thin already.

[.samol.]

Thanks i see it now.

Should i look at the colour as to weather it needs a change?

[Lloyd]

Yep. It usually takes a very very long time for them to get dirty

[Eddy1612]

Yeah basically look on your box and there will be two big ass bolts, way bigger than any other ones. One is the filler and one is the drain. lol

Oh and dont bother getting iridium, they are really for high performance vehicles so you can push the limits of the ignition system.

Usually you would just bleed the brakes then top up what is needed as you go. Most brake fluids mix alright but if you dont want to mix, i say the best way is to remove all the old fluid from the reservoir, fill with new fluid to max then bleed and refill and basically most of the lines with have the new fluid in it.

[rollaholic]

no point putting new fluid in the res and leaving the old fluid in the lines / calipers

if you really want to change your brakefluid, start from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually left rear) and start bleeding. once you have some room in the overflow put some meths in. keep bleeding and keep topping up until you get meths clear from every wheel. then follow same procedure with new brake fluid. plenty of brake fluids dont mix, they need to have the same DOT rating for ideal performance. its also recommended to flush and change every 4 or 5 years for the same, though plenty of people dont bother. brake fluid absorbs water which lowers its boiling point, which is not a good thing when you consider the amount of heat generated by your brakes (hint - steam does not make for good pedal feel)

get plenty of both as it sucks to run out halfway through and not be able to drive the car to get some more

re wipers - buying complete new arms is cheap and will make a big difference to the wiper action, chances are by now the joints have gotten loose on your original arms and they are flexing all over the place.

as lloyd mentioned shudder will likely be warped front rotors, but could also be wheel alignment if you are feeling it through the wheel. if the cars got good tyres its worth doing an alignment for peace of mind anyway. if you get rotors machined, get some decent pads - can highly recommend bendix ultimates.

you'll never get the power toyota claimed out of it on a standard engine, especially without 100 octane fuel

[Twolitre]

This might be a stupid question but what torque setting should you torque those big 24mm bolts on the gearbox housing up to?
I know most people wouldn't bother but those alloy gearbox housings aren't that hard to crack.