caldina 3sgte ecu help.

[frost]

fivebob, there is 26 wires.

strx7, i had a look and i see whats going on. cheers for that i overlooked it thinking the pressure release valve was in the cover.
i'll stick to the alloy sump and mod the pan.

[fivebob]

fivebob, there is 26 wires.

Which means it's a loom for an Auto ECU. Manual looms only have 14 wires on that connector.

Engine end of the loom should have a few spare plugs hanging of it that would go to the transmission.

[frost]

fivebob, there is 26 wires.

Which means it's a loom for an Auto ECU. Manual looms only have 14 wires on that connector.

Engine end of the loom should have a few spare plugs hanging of it that would go to the transmission.

FAK FAK FAK, well WTB CALDINA manual ecu please,

[speedracer07]

I'm sort of jumping into your thread mid-stream but I'm using the auto ECU with my caldina swap (into a 91T Mr2) and it seems to work well... although I'm not completely finished yet and there are a few bugs to work out,

currently my car goes really rich when engine braking (off the throttle in gear, decelerating and vacume reads 23+) but other than that runs quite well. One theory is that the Auto ECU is expecting a load from the auto transmission and does'nt know what to do when it sees an engine braking senario...

btw, courtesy of toyodiy.com

89661-21320 is the auto ECU Toyota part number
89661-21330 is the manual ECU Toyota part number

R

[frost]

if i remember correctly through my research (mainly what fivebob has posted)
the mapping of fuel and ignition is very different between the two. i think mainly load based, it could cause lean and rich spots, and has also hinted at a very dangerous VE change in the rev range that can cause nastiness.

there was also a problem with the engine ecu not getting any info from the auto ecu to tell it what gear its in?
this was not a problem in my 20valve blacktop swap, when i had the auto ecu, but i think the caldina system is more complicated.

ill be using a greddy ultimate on my engine, just got it a week ago and im already stuck. so this may give me some fine tuning.
i can get a manual ecu for about $200 from a wrecker mate. so this seems to be the best option right now.
but please keep me updated on your swap, as it is very interesting to see if the auto can be used to full success.

[speedracer07]

actually after a conversation I had last night with a mechanic I'm thinking the issue I'm having where it goes full rich when the car is engine braking (off throttle, in gear, high vacume) is probably due to the auto ECU.

I have a feeling that the few people over here who say they are running auto ECU's with no problem don't have an wideband AF hooked up and don't know the load issues described above.

It's harder to source an Manual ECU over here as there are no caldina's in our wreckers yards but I'll be trying to find out anyway to see if that fixed my issues...

R

[KinLoud]

When I put gen3 3sge into my carina (rwd) I did several things to keep a good oil supply...
The gen3 3sge has the 2 piece sump same as you have. But doesn't have the cutout for the crank angle sensor.

I reworked the steel part of the sump.
- lengthened the short side and shortened the long side to get a flat bottomed sump.
- Lengthened the oil pickup to suit
- made a baffle plate that fitted between the steel and alloy parts of the sump (hard to tell how effective this is but I'm sure it helps)

Also
- remarked the dipstick to give the same vertical distance from full oil level to crank counterweight... Engine slanted back for fwd vs engine upright for rwd

Also
- plumbed in an accusump into one of the galleries in the alloy part of the sump (after filter, pretty easy to work out if you follow how the oil flow)

I have run this engine for about 3 race seasons... no oil probs!

NOTE - I guess you were planning to run an older sump to RWD the oil system. I don't know of anyone who has had that type of setup and not run a bearing. I think some of what is written on the internet on this topic is someones theory but not put into actual practice.

Ken
Auck
021 408 863

[fivebob]

actually after a conversation I had last night with a mechanic I'm thinking the issue I'm having where it goes full rich when the car is engine braking (off throttle, in gear, high vacuum) is probably due to the auto ECU.

Sounds more like it's not going into overrun fuel recovery mode (zero fuel) when the throttle in shut off. It's possible that autos don't use this mode, unless the torque converter is locked up the engine may stall. I'd be inclined to check for a problem with the TPS signal, or possibly leaking injectors though I'd consider that unlikely, just to eliminate any possible problems with outside of the ECU.

Looking closely at the wiring diagram I'd think it would be possible to fool the transmission functions on the ECU into thinking there's still an auto box attached, whether or not that would do anything to alleviate an overrun fuel recovery problem I don't know.

However if you're using a piggyback like the E-Manage then it may be possible to to shut the fuel off at zero throttle when the RPM is above about 1700.