O2 sensor

[steve murch]

So the ecotech O2 is effectively a wideband oxygen sensor without the need for a wideband controller?

Is it just 4 wire? Two for heater and two for oxygen signal and oxygen signal earth?

yes the sensor is wideband but you still need some sort of unit to turn that signal into something worth using,its a 4 wire and i used then many years ago and for budget end they worked fine

[Leiden]

The Emanage Ultimate can read a 0-5v signal, all you have to do is enter the minimum and maximum AFR say 10.0:1 - 20.0:1 and it interpolates the rest based on voltage so you end up with say 2.5v being 15.0:1. It then shows you AFR instead or raw voltage in the logs

So the ecotec O2 outputs a 0-5v signal or is it 0-1v or something?

[steve murch]

The Emanage Ultimate can read a 0-5v signal, all you have to do is enter the minimum and maximum AFR say 10.0:1 - 20.0:1 and it interpolates the rest based on voltage so you end up with say 2.5v being 15.0:1. It then shows you AFR instead or raw voltage in the logs

So the ecotec O2 outputs a 0-5v signal or is it 0-1v or something?

yes they are, last time i got one new it was $120?

[Leiden]

Do you have a rough idea of the AFR range they output, also was it a 1v or 5v signal output?

When you refer to them needing 14.5v is that for the heater coil? At the moment I have my O2 sensor wired directly to the ECU+ circuit so the coil starts heating when the key is turned to the ON position and the ECU relay engages. That should be as close to 14.5v as it'd get. Reason for this is I burn out the HT1A circuit on the stock ECU as the O2 heater was to low an impedence.

[steve murch]

Do you have a rough idea of the AFR range they output, also was it a 1v or 5v signal output?

When you refer to them needing 14.5v is that for the heater coil? At the moment I have my O2 sensor wired directly to the ECU+ circuit so the coil starts heating when the key is turned to the ON position and the ECU relay engages. That should be as close to 14.5v as it'd get. Reason for this is I burn out the HT1A circuit on the stock ECU as the O2 heater was to low an impedence.

oops sorry forgot that bit,yes you need 14.5min for the heater
the output is 0-5v but the only thing you need is temp compensation for the sensor to which i dought the ecu will do.
this is important for constant accurate readings

[Leiden]

So I'll need to install a EGT sensor somewhere in the exhaust stream and compare the output data to that?

[steve murch]

So I'll need to install a EGT sensor somewhere in the exhaust stream and compare the output data to that?

yes egt is good but not very sensitive but never the less usefull,800-850egt is a good safe number under full power.

[Leiden]

Thanks for the advice, its awesome to be able to pick apart someones brain who knows what they're doing!

As far as EGT goes, if the temperature is in the ideal range (800-850'C) under WOT then can I assume that the AFR is ideal also? Since being too lean would increase the EGT and rich decrease it.

I also have a look at the plugs now and then as they can be a good indication of running condition but its a little hard to tell as they are those Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion ones with the 4 earth straps... had NGK Iridium plugs before them but they were missfiring at 12psi because of the 1.1mm gap.

I've been told properly gapped NGK Copper plugs are just as good as the Iridium ones, just wear alot quicker

[steve murch]

Thanks for the advice, its awesome to be able to pick apart someones brain who knows what they're doing!

As far as EGT goes, if the temperature is in the ideal range (800-850'C) under WOT then can I assume that the AFR is ideal also? Since being too lean would increase the EGT and rich decrease it.

I also have a look at the plugs now and then as they can be a good indication of running condition but its a little hard to tell as they are those Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion ones with the 4 earth straps... had NGK Iridium plugs before them but they were missfiring at 12psi because of the 1.1mm gap.

I've been told properly gapped NGK Copper plugs are just as good as the Iridium ones, just wear alot quicker

don't know about the brain thing but thank-you
egt versus af should pan out but sometimes with too small a turbine hsg or overlap on cam it can get confused but yes your correct in thinking that.
as for plugs when tuning a use normal type $3 plugs and gap them down to .028" but with the correct heat range.
its gets a little costly using the iridium when playing so i leave them till last.
for number change on a ngk plug up or down the tip temp changes 4 degrees so i use a slightly cold plug when tuning up top and hotter for lean cruze until im happy.
learning to read plugs is worth gold to anyone wanting to learn to tune,even now in f1 they still backup what they do with a plug check

[tim_blair]

ok soo lets get back to the question i asked

i have both sensors a 4-wire and a 1-wire and im only going to use one which should i use to get a more accurate readout????

[Leiden]

The 4-wire. 1-wire relies on exhaust heat to get up to temperature and uses the exhaust manifold as ground whereas the 4-wire has a heater to heat it up to temperature and also uses a seperate ground.

[sprsta]

more wires = better

[tim_blair]

ok thanks so ill use the 4-wire
is there any obvious way of telling which wire is what?

[Leiden]

Try having a look at the chart here: http://home.earthlink.net/~jcgebhart/o2sens.html

My O2 sensor had 4 wires with the following signals:

Black -> Heater +
Black -> Heater -
Blue -> O2 Signal +
White -> O2 Signal -