Need some info on cat converters

[TurboToy]

Hi there Mr revhead, i was thinking of gutting the cat, but i have time to fabricate a one off, as the cat in the car is still working ok, but i want it removed before it starts packing up, and i love fabricating parts and stuff for my cars

Thx for the welcome, Its great to join Toyspeed.

[Mr Revhead]

it should work fine for some time yet!
you do know where the cat is? just a lot of ppl don't in the st215

[TurboToy]

I believe it is the first section of the exhaust side of the turbo, i haven't striped it off jet, as i have to first get some bends made up for the down tube.

I still have the original turbo on and haven't had a look at the turbine side with the exhaust off it, I want to know if the BOV is part of the exit stream or can i fabricate the flange to allow the separation of BOV and exit stream for exhaust gas and then re join it about 18 inches or so back into the main exhaust pipe, just want plan in advance and buy all necessary materials if this can be done.

Oh ya, i also had the infamous instrument cluster issue were every thing "freeze" thanks to this forum i manage to fix it and solder the little chip back on the PCB, and all is well now. Happy days.

[Mr Revhead]

yeah it's right next to the turbo. just checking
Have a look here for info on the BOV
viewtopic.php?t=32156&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

[TurboToy]

S!*t my mistake
I meant the internal dump valve (waste gate) in the turbine housing and not BOV, that's working fine on my car.

[Mr Revhead]

maybe you should look at a completely new turbo set up?
that way you can sort ya cat, wastegate and the exhaust manifold leak all in one. it maynot be leaking now, but it will leak!

[TurboToy]

I was thinking just that also, to do the turbo upgrade and manifold, it makes sense coz ill fabricate a down tube for the factory turbo and once i upgrade the turbo i will have to build another down tube again, to fit the new turbo and manifold. Wasting money that route, and more work.

Do any one know why the cast manifold starts leaking? and were do they usually start to leak so i can monitor it ,if it happens, but I'm sure the noise from the gap will let you know that is leaking.

[Dell'Orto]

Toyota skimped out on a bolt from factory Its at the top left of the motor as you look at it

[TurboToy]

So When installing a new fabricated manifold, will i have to add this extra bolt(stud) to the head (drill and Tap) to avoid this leak or is it only the cast manifold that leak @ that spot.

[fivebob]

Bolt hole is already there you just need to add a stud.

Toyota just decided to cut corners when the first made the Caldina engine and not use the extra stud. Which is really quite stupid becase they had the same problem on the early Gen II engines so they added the extra stud, then removed it on ST215 engine, and added it back on the ST246 engines.

[TurboToy]

I see, common problem then on ST215 then, It seems the manifold and turbo mod will be waiting for me, but i don't want to go big turbo would like to keep the car stock or close, i only want to refine it a bit, if you know what i mean.

Every one is talking big power and stuff on specs for turbos ,so what spec should i look for in a turbo, and still keep the car close to stock but improved?

[Dell'Orto]

I've split your post, as the tech stuff really needs to be here For a close to stock response but with a bit more wick, the GT28RS is a pretty good allrounder

[TurboToy]

No problems, that's great i will set out to find that turbo, any other good turbos as well, as I'm going to have to look here in my part of the world first and if i don't find it,then well, i have to import.

[frost]

secondeded on the gt28rs disco potato, after talking to garret and a few other company's the gt28 is best suited to stock st215 engines with bolt-on's,

im going with a tdo5hr only because my budget is small and not chasing massive power. if i had the chance i'd use the gt28rs,

[Caldina3SGTE]

i've got a tdo5 on my st215 goes mint not to much lag get full boost (16psi) at just over 3g, i recommend the tdo5 if you are on a low budget if not then yea deffintly the gt28

[TurboToy]

The GT28RS sounds like the one to go then, ill have to c if i can get it local, or the TDO5 if that fails ill import the GT28RS. I saw on garrett site and looked at the GT28RS series and they have 2 A/R ratios and with maps, so who knows the CT26 map just to compare for interest sake, like to compare specs and c whats different.

Also Is different wall thicknesses used when fabricating manifold out of steel and for stainless steel or is you use the same size no mater the type of material. i have a choice to make steel or stainless coz ill have to fabricate all parts my self

[drftdr]

Id say use which ever material is strongest for the manifold, and a nice brace for the Turbo also.

[Bazda]

Alternatively MasterPower have a disco potato GT28 equivalent as well.
I have pm'ed you with some details.

[TurboToy]

Great info, i appreciate all the help here and think i can now set out to get my parts list and up grade my turbo manifold and replace the cat. ill look into that MasterPower Bazda thx for info on that.

[Akane]

THe .63 A/R exhaust housing has been found to be the best matched to 3S-GTE / turbo wheels, the .83 (or .86 i can't exactly remember) is actually too big, you lose a lot of spool just for that couple more HP. Not worth it.

You can import the GT28RS from atpturbo.

And don't be mistaken between the GT28R and GT28RS, they're different turbos