by MAGN1T » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:43 pm
Here's a pretty common situation.
So you go to the gas station to fill up, check the 'water' at the same time. It's down a bit, never mind top it up, keep driving. A couple of weeks later, same again, top it up. Using a bit more this time. Top it up again. Obviously a blown headgasket. Couldn't be bothered fixing it, I'll just pour in a bottle of chemiweld, that'll fix it for a couple of months so I can flick it off.
So, next persons problem.
In the meantime because the coolant is now so diluted with water and there's exhaust gasses dissolved it it under pressure. the coolant is acidic and the motor is acting like the cars battery, with electrodes of aluminium and iron bolted together. The water turns brown due to the acid eating the iron and aluminium and the brown gunge blocks the radiator.
So, it starts using water again.....never mind,the mechanic told me it's the radiator cap that's obviously not sealing properly. I'll put a stronger one on to hold it all in.Yay.
Next week it's overheating, heater hose popped, never mind, it must have been leaking all along and must have missed it. Mechanic ripped me off. I'll just shorten it cos it popped by the hose clip then fill it back up with water.
So next week....same again, overheating, another hose popped, ah well , they're all rotten, better replace them all. Cooked it a bit worse this time. Maybe this overheating has warped the head and made the headgasket blow?
So, next test drive/thrash, woops the top tank of the radiator has popped.Looks really gungy inside, that must have been the problem all along. Rubbish radiators, must have got brittle when it got hot. I know, I'll get an alloy one, that will be far stronger.
So, when you finally get around to changing the headgasket, you get the head cut, new gasket and it still wont seal because the block face has rusted and needs a cut too.
Then you finally get it running right and you find it's burning oil cos it got cooked too many times and the rings have no tension left.
The no brainer easy cheap test is to hook up a boost gauge to the cooling system and watch the pressure go up when you floor the gas pedal. A compression test is no good because they start leaking only at highest cylinder pressures and get slowly worse.A leakdown test might work but you'd need to use a few hundred PSI.
It's the same with any old pushrod motor that gets boost, it's really hard to seal the head properly, they'll leak on boost (real boost) but not leak any other time so it's hard to diagnose, unless you've been there before.
BTW my townace with 3Y, bought it with 69Ks or so on the clock but the numbers looked a bit out of line. It started using coolant with 80K or so on the clock, got fixed and started using coolant again with 270K or so on the clock. Nothing else really went wrong apart fronm the tail housing of the autobox that had to be fixed about 4 times.
Steve
Computers make you go mad.