noobie AE111 BZR questions

[regamaster]

well, put a deposit on a 98 AE111 BZR today.
its stock as a rock, done under 80ks though, and its automatic.

just wanting to know, (its probably already been covered, but would like to get an updated reply).

What sort of oil is best for the blacktop 4AGE motor that is powering this BZR?

and also, it is AT, what kind of fluid would you people recommend for this box?

around how much does a genuine toyota filter and TRD filter cost? (if someone knows off the top of their head)?

anyone else recommend anything else to be done maintenance wise once taking ownership?

also - does Toyota have their own range of fluids for motor oil/trans fluid etc?

[Bling]

Doing all the servicing yourself?

I use magnatec, no problems after years of use.

Genuine filter will be fine, TRD not needed. Genuine will be around $20+ i guesstimate.

AT fluid, no idea.

You could always get the cambelt done along with the likes of waterpump etc. Depends how long you intend on keeping it, but that will need doing in ~20,000km anyways.

[frost]

what part of the country are you in? the weather can decide what grade of oil you should use.

fully synthetic oil, if the engine runs nice then a thin 5w30 oil
auto fluid not sure.
filters you should ask the Toyota sponsor 1I1 on here,
oil change every 6000k not 10,000 to keep sludge away.

ALWAYS use BP.98 ultimate

and always let the engine worm up in the morning for at least 3minutes.
the pistons have no skirts and will slap when cold. causing excessive oil burn,

[regamaster]

nope, will be taking it to my mechanic to do general maintenance, or possibly looking at seeing someone who knows toyotas quite well, i.e the Tama Autos boys? as they are local.

Im in West Auckland by the way. Yes I know that the cambelt will be coming up in the next 20-30ks, but thats still a while away. Car will prob see a year or so before that comes up.

[regamaster]

also saw from a quick research about the AE111's in general. That all superstrut models have factory LSD. Is this the same case with automatic versions? and do all AE111 BZR's come with superstrut suspension?

[ChaosAD]

Make sure you take it for a decent drive before buying it.

I picked up an auto bzg and it is completely guttless unless you have your foot to the floor or manually put it in 2nd gear.
Blacktops dont really make any torque until at least 3,000rpm yet the auto changes gear at about 2,000rpm

The toyota boys must have been hitting the sake when they decided an auto blacktop was a good idea.

[Mr Revhead]

Make sure you take it for a decent drive before buying it.

I picked up an auto bzg and it is completely guttless unless you have your foot to the floor or manually put it in 2nd gear.
Blacktops dont really make any torque until at least 3,000rpm yet the auto changes gear at about 2,000rpm

The toyota boys must have been hitting the sake when they decided an auto blacktop was a good idea.

yep, any 20v + auto = fail


letting your car idle for 3 mins to warm up is not a good idea.
better to pull away 10-20 secs after start up and drive gently
varying the load and rpms

[BZR4AGE]

pretty sure all auto came with no LSD

[ebgamer]

So which oil is being recommended? Alot of toyspeeders seem to use Magnatec, but mine and my friends BT drink it hard.

My engine 'may' have done around 150km, but cant be sure (engine replaced, no paperwork or documentation from last owner etc).

[Mr Revhead]

personally i'd use somethign liek castrol protec
magnatec is a bit thin for older blacktops

[ChaosAD]

Letting the engine idle doesnt warm up the gearbox etc anyways and although the water is up to temp the oil probably isnt.

yea something like castol protec 'modern engine'

[frost]

how is letting the engine worm up for 3minutes not a good idea?
the almost none existent skirts on the blacktop pistons would slap excessively in the bore under any load, causing pitting/scraping of the bores over time, letting oil to pass the control rings.

ive seen 3 bores of blacktops now with this problem, it almost looks like a polish has been sat on a thumb sized patch on one side.
and letting them expand a little would resolve some of this.
im almost sure that's why blacktops like to drink so much magnitec.

[Mr Revhead]

non exsistant skirts? not that i've noticed

even for older style forged pistons, letting them warm up by idle was never the way. light load and varying rpm is the way.
things warm up faster that way, and the rings seal better

[ebgamer]

crap... just went out and bought a 4L Magnatec 10w40 didn't see the post first.

My engine seems to be eating the current oil, Valvoline Engine Armour 15w40. but the oil is dirty as. I did an oil change 5-6 months ago but the old oil was in a terrible state as it had probably been a long time since it was last changed so im thinking there still might be a bit of gunk left over from that.

Another question... If i am using flush, do i have to replace the oil filter because i am using flush? The oil filter was changed 5-6 months ago.

And sorry regamaster for trolling your thread


- Cub3y

[frost]

pics are better.


there is very little skirt under the pin, if i remember correct it was about 7mm under pin. silvertops have skirts like the 16valve engines and don't have this problem. i'll try and find a pic of the bore.

[Dell'Orto]

crap... just went out and bought a 4L Magnatec 10w40 didn't see the post first.

My engine seems to be eating the current oil, Valvoline Engine Armour 15w40. but the oil is dirty as. I did an oil change 5-6 months ago but the old oil was in a terrible state as it had probably been a long time since it was last changed so im thinking there still might be a bit of gunk left over from that.

Another question... If i am using flush, do i have to replace the oil filter because i am using flush? The oil filter was changed 5-6 months ago.

And sorry regamaster for trolling your thread


- Cub3y

Dont use an engine flush Slightly better way is to run diesel oil for a couple of thousand k's and dump it, it has far stronger detergents in it to deal with diesel blowby.

[ebgamer]

Dont use an engine flush Slightly better way is to run diesel oil for a couple of thousand k's and dump it, it has far stronger detergents in it to deal with diesel blowby.

Um.... Sounds scary running diesel oil... i might give it a try though.

BUT because i dont have much money and ive already bought the items, will i have to change the oil filter if i did use the flush?

[ebgamer]

pics are better.


there is very little skirt under the pin, if i remember correct it was about 7mm under pin. silvertops have skirts like the 16valve engines and don't have this problem. i'll try and find a pic of the bore.

Damn that BT rod is rooted. Those toda ones look $&#$% sweet

[regamaster]

thanks for the information guys.

can someone answer the genuine fluids question please?
also, seems many people recommneding the castrol protec oil for these cars? guess thats the way to go then?

what is the recommended oil weight for the Levin BZR's, or BT 4age?
oh - and anyone got a good automatic trans fluid they would recommend for these box's?

[ChaosAD]

diesel fuel or diesel oil?

Ive heard of people using 1/4 atf with good results