Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **Quirky** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:05 pm

I increased the boost to 8/9psi today.
Runs great, however when you get to 5500-6000rpm the boost drops from 8 to 5psi?
Car is a 4agze converted turbo running stock ecu
It seems like its having that apparent power drop most 4agzes have.
However when it was running the supercharger, it didn't have the power drop even though it was running at 12psi.

Any ideas?

by **Bazda** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:09 pm

Leak.

Controller is not good.

Website · by **Rick** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:09 pm

You running a AE101 4AGZE ecu?

by **Quirky** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:45 pm

Bazda wrote:Leak.

Controller is not good.

I'm using one of those turbo smart boost tees

Car is running AE92 MAP ECU, which i think is the same as the ae101

by **Crucible** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:31 pm

Quirky wrote:
I'm using one of those turbo smart boost tees

Car is running AE92 MAP ECU, which i think is the same as the ae101

I know the MAP ae92 and 101 map ecus dont physically interchange cos I tried running a ae92 one in my ae101 and it wouldnt start. As far as the drop off goes, my mate has a later ae92 gtz with the map ecu and that pulls right to redline without with the drop off so pretty certain its only the ae101s that have that prob.

maybe take the bleed tap out of the equation and see if you get any variation in boost to see if its at fault. if still not consistant check your piping maybe.

by **Quirky** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:53 pm

If i remove the bleed tap it only runs on 4psi. Thats how they tuned it.
And I only get a crappy 82kw atw. They tried running 10psi but the ecu kept pulling the timing out and richening it. 4/5psi holds steady through the rev range. Any adjustments on that and the boost drops.
How do I increase boost without the bleed tap?

My car is getting an ECU next week, but im just impatient and want to see how the car runs on the standard ecu.

by **Crucible** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 8:26 pm

Quirky wrote:If i remove the bleed tap it only runs on 4psi. Thats how they tuned it.
And I only get a crappy 82kw atw. They tried running 10psi but the ecu kept pulling the timing out and richening it. 4/5psi holds steady through the rev range. Any adjustments on that and the boost drops.
How do I increase boost without the bleed tap?

My car is getting an ECU next week, but im just impatient and want to see how the car runs on the standard ecu.

I was only suggesting taking the tap out to see if youre boost stays steady, then you know weather the tap is at fault or not, cant really up boost without altering signal to wastegate. as you know.

how long is the wastegate/tap line? cos i know you can get fluctuations if its too long, wanna be as short as poss.

by **Quirky** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:11 pm

I guess my lines are long...
But I don't know how long is too long.

Its probably about 1m in length total

by **tsoob** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:34 pm

i wouldnt run a Tee in your w.g line either man

by **Quirky** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 10:07 pm

Any ideas where I can tap the wastegate hose to?
Im going through the projects thread on here and twincam to see where people have routed their vacuum lines.

by **sergei** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:17 am

Either make a new hole or find some hole that is directly in the manifold and is larger what you have now.
It is fairly easy to take off manifold and tap a thread for a new fitting.
That vacuum supply is not suitable. I am not even sure if that is even after the throttle where you plugged it in.

by **tsoob** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:05 am

you really need to do a setup like mine, check out the project thread, ill put some more pics up

Website · by **Bling** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:31 am

Quirky wrote:My car is getting an ECU next week, but im just impatient and want to see how the car runs on the standard ecu.

Why risk blowing up your motor for the sake of waiting a week for a proper solution?

by **evil_si** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:57 am

things like bov, wastegate and fuel reg all need there own supply lines direct from the manifold.
its quite interesting how much difference each having there own supply can make

i would grab an 8mm drill bit, an 1/8bsp tap and some 1/8bsp brass fittings, drill & tap then screw them in,

best bet is to take the inlet off to do, dont want to risk the alloy filings entering the air intake

by **Quirky** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 3:54 pm

tsoob wrote:you really need to do a setup like mine, check out the project thread, ill put some more pics up

Yea if you could just PM or post pics of your intake and how you plugged it in that would help.
Also the pipes underneath the throttle body arent connected, any ideas what should be plugged in here? 5 plug things not connected.

Sorry about the questions. Paid a workshop to do the work, and now trying to work out the niggles, when I have no mechanical know how.

by **l1ttle_d3vil** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:01 pm

its the wax valve for the idle-up, supposed to be waterlines running to it as per below. i always take them off and blank it off because the valves tend to crap out and stick after a while.

by **Quirky** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:29 pm

Ahh i see, so I can just leave them like that, or should i physically block them with like a plastic cap?

by **themaleman** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:10 pm

my 4agte was ideling high as when i first got it going, i didnt have those 2 water lines hooked up to te TB (stolen for turbo cooling). i had to T the lines to use them for both. and that solved my shit idel

by **l1ttle_d3vil** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:27 pm

yeah block them off, otherwise some of them are pretty much a big vacuum leak.

by **Quirky** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:32 am

So I got the car tuned this weekend, turns out the boost drop was the boost taps fault. The boost tap doesn't properly work until its over 8psi.
Below the 8psi value and the boost tap starts fluctuating.
Nice to have it all sorted.

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