Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **Makaveli** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:39 pm

My mate got a quote for an oil filter from Nissan for like $40, but he got Magnatec Oil + Repco Oil filter for about the same price. Just curious is there any difference in quality of genuine parts vs aftermarket eg: Repco ?

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:42 pm

In some instances yes...some aftermarket filters out there are not very good, they're built to a price point (blame consumers not wanting to spend money on their cars). Most good brands of aftermarket filter meet OE specs though.

no grip · by **Akane** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:23 pm

I buy Toyota so I can sleep at night. :lol:

by **MR2BOY23** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:49 pm

Yeah those repco filters are good. Pretty much the only filter you need to stay away from are Fram and those cheap ones on trademe lots of horror stories there (brand new 350z seized engine)

Website · by **Bling** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:07 pm

Whats wrong with Fram? Been using them 6 years now with no issues..

by **MR2BOY23** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:12 pm

Cut open a fram and look inside

Well known fact that fram is shit, all you need to do is look at one of their oil filters

So bad that supercheap auto stopped stocking them, we only do ryco now

by **thegreatestben** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:44 pm

New repco ones are good, ryco/old repco ones are good.
Open a fram and see why they aren't considered good.

by **KwS** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:48 pm

when i got my 25det r33 it had a cheap repco filter on it. When i did an oil change i got a genuine nismo filter. not only was it more efficient, so it was about half the size of the repco one, but i also gained back some oil pressure.

I only buy genuine toyota parts now (thanks to our TGP sponsor), and will continue to buy genuine no matter what brand i have.

My mate made the mistake of using aftermarket seals on his EJ20 when he rebuilt it. about 200km into the run-in the front and rear crank seals and a cam seal all started leaking. Swapped for genuine seals, no more issues and that engine is over 40,000k now.

Website · by **Bling** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:48 pm

MR2BOY23 wrote:Well known fact that fram is sh*t

Might be well known if you sell parts for a living. Never heard of it myself thats all.

Currently running genuine but before that was always fram without a problem.

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:49 pm

Also consider that BNT are going away from Fram filter too...
In my personal experience, the oil in my 4K went dirty sub 1000k's with a Fram, whereas Ryco it was 1500k's (where dirty = going from gold to brown.)

by **KwS** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 8:43 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Also consider that BNT are going away from Fram filter too...
In my personal experience, the oil in my 4K went dirty sub 1000k's with a Fram, whereas Ryco it was 1500k's (where dirty = going from gold to brown.)

I wonder if thats why im getting low cold start oil pressure in my car.... after only 3000ks since oil/filter change. Made the mistake of using a fram filter last change.

by **iOnic** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 8:57 pm

My GF's VR4 has low oil pressure for the first few minutes of startup as well (common Fram thing) and the oil is far too dirty for only having done 3000km's since it's oil change. Engine is also quite "noisy". Guess what filter it has on it :lol:

Going with a Ryco/Repco filter this time round. I had no choice but to use the Fram last time as the car had the same filter for 40,000km's and came with a free Fram filter when we bought it. I wouldn't recommend Fram filters to anyone.

by **NZ_AE86** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:19 pm

thegreatestben wrote:New repco ones are good, ryco/old repco ones are good.
Open a fram and see why they aren't considered good.

What is so bad about them? (don't ask me to cut one open!)

by **thegreatestben** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:43 pm

Have less folded pleats = less surface area
Quality of materials used, looks like they were made out've bits of a cereal box.
Plastic bypass valve parts
General poos.

We have cut up ones in most branches

by **MR2BOY23** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 9:47 pm

the filter material is crap doesnt stop shit
the filter end plates are cardboard which soak through
the anti drain back seal is hopeless and stiff and doesnt do anything
the base plate is too thin and flexes causing bypass
the bypass spring is a leaf spring and isnt strong at all
the seal is thin and $&#$% out over time ( dries and breaks apart)
the case is way too thin and bends and $&#$% up wen u try take them off
those are all the main points of a filter covered and they are $&#$%..

by **sergei** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:09 pm

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfil ... rence.html

by **MR2BOY23** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:15 pm

sergei wrote:http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

bit outdated but still a good reference.

by **MR2BOY23** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:17 pm

iOnic wrote:My GF's VR4 has low oil pressure for the first few minutes of startup as well .

because that anti drain back valve is so piss-poor all the oil falls out of the filter and back into the sump, im having the same problem

by **fuel** » Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:19 pm

I should point out the Fram filters which are crap, are the Fram 'Sure Guard' filters with the black rubberised grip on the end, these are all made in America and are the common filters for most US/Jap cars, however there are some Fram oil filters which are made in the Netherlands or South Africa, often for European car applications and they are far far better than the US frams, they just even look more sturdier on the outside.

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:14 pm

The Fram race filters are a bit better than the other type as well, though even then they're only guaranteed for 3000 miles.

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