gen 3s gte / ge heads and cams

[Anth_555]

well what i want to no is what are the specks on na cams and turbo cams . and are valve diffrent in between the heads

[Akane]

Yes there is. What you want is the Gen 3 N/A *Manual* cams.

And if you wanna go crazy, you put both intake cams in there.

toyota 3S cam specs:

2. gen 3SGE (165ps):
In: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 7/57)
Ex: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 57/7)

2. gen 3SGTE (225ps):
In: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 8/48)
Ex: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 56/0)

3. gen 3SGE A/T (170ps):
In: 240deg, 8.7mm lift (timing 7/53)
Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

3.gen 3SGE M/T (180ps):
In: 252deg, 9.8mm lift (timing 7/65)
Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

3.gen 3SGTE (245ps):
In: 240deg, 8.7mm lift (timing 7/53)
Ex: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 50/6)

[Anth_555]

thats what i got so say if i want to put the na cams in is it a straght bolt in? or will it upset valves and shims?

[Al]

If you are going to the effort of taking the head off, get some proper cams.

[Anth_555]

dont have to take the head off to change cams . and reason for not getting cams made is i have these cams laying round

[Akane]

It's a straight bolt in to a point.

You'll need to check for shim cleareances, just like all cam swaps do.

If you put the intake cam on the exhaust too, you'll need to degree it properly.

[Anth_555]

yea i was wondering that . what is involved to degree it (im getting ajustablie gears as well)
also i have a set of gen 2 turbo cams

[Akane]

Gen 2 turbo cams is no good for what you want.

To degree an intake cam on the exhaust, you'll have to jump quite a few teeth on it, I can't remember exactly but I think it's 21 teeth? or 21 degrees.

[iOnic]

Gen2 turbo cams = no good for anything but the bin

If I were you I'd just get some proper cams (272 or 264 etc) - 3SGE cams won't really give you any noticeable benefits on that setup.

[Anth_555]

ive dropt the na gen3 cams into kiwi cams today to see what they can do but wil be looking more like getting some ones made up

[iOnic]

I wouldn't try degree'ing the cams unless you know what you're doing and have ALL the specs for the cams you're installing. Here is a basic how-to on doing it though.

1. Use a pencil, paper and arithmetic for this procedure, to keep track of the results.

2. Fashion a rigid pointer from stiff wire or an old coat hanger and attach it to the engine block. This pointer locates the degrees on the degree wheel.

3. With a degree wheel installed on the crankshaft, rotate the crank to get the no 1- piston at TDC and check to ensure that the valves are fully closed then adjust the pointer to zero (0º TDC) on the degree wheel.

4. Turn the crankshaft opposite the running rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. Install a piston stop on the top of the engine block fastened in place by two head bolts.

5. Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes back up and just touches the piston stop. Make a note of the exact number on the degree wheel that the pointer is on.

6. Rotate the engine in the other direction (running rotation) until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Again note the number where the pointer is.

7. Remove the piston stop and rotate the crankshaft to the midpoint of the two marks. At this point the piston is at the true top dead center. Loosen the degree wheel and adjust it so it will read 0º TDC at the pointer. Don't rotate the crankshaft to do this!

8. Now, it's time to locate the lobe centerline relative to TDC. Attach a dial indicator on the top of the engine block. Set the tip to contact the top of the no 1-cylinder inlet valve shim/bucket. Check to make sure that the indicator plunger is parallel to the valve stem. NOTE - any variance in an angle will produce geometric errors in the lift readings.

9. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until a reading on the dial gauge of 0.040” lift is reached. (Valve will start to open) Mark the dial gauge and make a note of the reading on the degree wheel.

10. Continue to turn the engine in the normal direction past maximum lift. The valve will now return to its close position. Make a note of the degree wheel reading when the indicator reads 0.040" on the return side

11. Now add the larger of the two readings that you noted on the degree wheel to 180 subtract the smaller number and then divide the answer by two. Your answer will indicate the lobe center of the cam. Example: open reading was 4 and close reading was 43. Now add 43 to 180 = 223, subtract 4 =219 divide by 2 = 109.5. Lobe center is 109.5 degrees.

12. Continue to move the cam on the adjustable cam gear and redo steps 10 to 12 until the required lobe center is achieved.

13. Now do the same for the exhaust cam

[Prymal]

hmmss .. having now driven a 264 deg cammed engine , and a stock WRC 205 , i can noticce a little differentce between the 2 .. you certianly notice a difference when things get opened up and its heading onto the motorway or such - 264's = very drivable cams

[strx7]

you can tweak your cam timing to alter your torque curve/peak torque if you want to too

[®usty]

hmmss .. having now driven a 264 deg cammed engine , and a stock WRC 205 , i can noticce a little differentce between the 2 .. you certianly notice a difference when things get opened up and its heading onto the motorway or such - 264's = very drivable cams

lol yea these engines (3S GE & GTE) love big cams, if your really worried about getting too big cams, there are 25#deg which should get you good drivability and power

[strx7]

264's are pretty mild really, they just stop the power from dropping off as fast after peak.

[Anth_555]

so 264 in and ex?

[Anth_555]

so 264 in and ex?

[Akane]

not just any 264's, but HKS ones, their cam profile is the bestestestestest for 3S-GTE looking for around 450hp.

If you're feeling keen you might wanna go 1mm oversized valves, just incase you're shooting past 500.

[Prymal]

HKS 264's in and ex .. they were meant to be going in my group A but ended up in franks instead

its very very nice to drive , when let loose on an open stretch , and really gives that extra bit of range that the 3s 's ive driven before seemed to lack

So ill be sourcing another set of HKS 264's for mine this year .

[frost]

HKS 264's in and ex .. they were meant to be going in my group A but ended up in franks instead

its very very nice to drive , when let loose on an open stretch , and really gives that extra bit of range that the 3s 's ive driven before seemed to lack

So ill be sourcing another set of HKS 264's for mine this year .

i'll be looking for some hks 264's for my gen3.4 as well, let us know if you find a good priced supplier.