How much weight can be saved by stripping a Levin BZR

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby Tha_INS » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:57 pm

classique71 wrote:Remember you will need to Add weight by addibgn safety gear , and A rollcage ( if your serious ?) so yeah - account for that too ..

My ex flatmates had a stripped out levin track car , just a hack , nothign super special , but was quite a bit lightened .. No sound deadening and every interior plastic bit we could rip out gone was one thing that stood out , because it was a prick to sort out , but it saved probably a good 10 -15 kg by memory . Long time back so im sketchy


damn only 10-15....i thought the passenger seats alone prob would be about 20kg?
Tha_INS
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:35 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby molex » Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:08 pm

fwd weight distribution is a little different from rear wheel drive. Especially with a starlet, achieving 50/50 weight distribution is quite impossible and would seriously detrimentally affect the handling due to the design of the rear suspension. Correctly modified having a relatively front heavy fwd car can work just fine, just need to get the arse end to behave itself :)

I've been told people like british touring cars end up running 66/33 front to rear split, I would suspect my car would be pretty close to that at the moment. Bear in mind the 'stripped out' weight figures on the scales there was with an entirely standard engine bay, I subsequently removed quite a few bits and pieces from over the front axle, battery is lighter and mid mounted etc

starting with a levin you've got independant rear suspension and probably far less front heavy to begin with - i wouldn't consider the weight bias to be a huge concern. Move battery to the back, add in half cage, etc and it would end up being about right.

what I would definitely suggest is getting it weighed before and after. A) because then you'll know how you've done with the reduction measures and B) you'll know how the bias has shifted, based on the weight bias you can make decisions about things like swaybars, tire selection etc to address understeer

as close to neutral bias as is practical should be the goal, but even with fairly whack f/r bias less weight will always be better!
molex
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 524
Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:08 am
Location: Auckland

Postby Leon » Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:03 am

molex wrote:66/33


1% discount for cash?
User avatar
Leon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 6642
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:27 pm
Location: Wellington

Postby TRD Man » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:36 am

molex wrote:On that one I started cutting off excessive bolt length
This is a clever mod. On the RWD Starlet that Marty Roestenburg & Pat Norris rallied in the 80's they'd not only cut them to length but drilled through the centre of every non stressed bolt as well.

Some interesting weights.
When we built the EP81 Group A Starlet in '94 the class weight limit was 730kg. We managed to get the car in rally trim down to 738kg for the '95 Rally NZ.

The sound deadening material from that car weighed between 7 & 8kg when removed.

A full rollcage I had built for a larger FWD car in the late 90's weighed in at 40kg. An identical cage in chrome moly weighed 28kg.
User avatar
TRD Man
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2004 5:26 pm
Location: Lower Hutt

Postby nz_climber » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:43 am

If going to all the effort to save weight, make sure get a nice set of light wheels and tyres wheels should be around 4-5kg (15inch) per wheel compared to the same wheel in 17inch I worked out it saves around 2.5kg per corner (depending on the combination) so thats 10kgs saved (and a lot less rotation mass also)
nz_climber
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 322
Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2003 10:29 pm
Location: Bulls

Postby Prymal » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:56 am

Tha_INS wrote:
classique71 wrote:Remember you will need to Add weight by addibgn safety gear , and A rollcage ( if your serious ?) so yeah - account for that too ..

My ex flatmates had a stripped out levin track car , just a hack , nothign super special , but was quite a bit lightened .. No sound deadening and every interior plastic bit we could rip out gone was one thing that stood out , because it was a prick to sort out , but it saved probably a good 10 -15 kg by memory . Long time back so im sketchy


damn only 10-15....i thought the passenger seats alone prob would be about 20kg?


Not seats just plastic trims and deadening .. the seats were long gone ..
St205 NZ New Group A WRC Gt4- Accept no Imitations !
Prymal
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 726
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 11:17 pm
Location: Auckland

weight

Postby fxgt race » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:02 pm

Im down to 760kgs with the car plus 20kgs for gas,Still picking of more weigth,down to cutting off bolts that are to long.still looking for at least 30 kgs.Our class weight is 720kgs with driver, I was thinking off an ep starlet as I think this is the only way to get to this weight
Pukekohe 1.07.6
Taupo 1.41.3
Manfield 1.18.7
hamptondowns 1.15.2
User avatar
fxgt race
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 484
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2003 12:14 am

Postby BigDon » Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:39 pm

I had a BZ-G as a track car. I stripped the interior: carpet, sound deadening, all the trims, seats, seat belts. I didnt go much further as I wanted to be able put it back to standard.

One thing to keep in mind is what you plan to do with the car after racing it will you sell it as a race car or do you want to maintain rego and sell as road legal. That perhaps affects how far you can go.

You can get rid of the rear wiper, pull out wiring for the stereo, aircon, take out your fog lights, put light weight pulleys on the engine, use a titanium exhaust rather than steel etc
www.europeandirect.co.nz
1996 AE111 BZ-G: TRD equipped road legal Club Car (Manfeild 1.25s) (SOLD)
1995 AE111 BZ-G: Stereo and daily driver (SOLD)
2005 NZ New Evo 9 GT (specd to FQ360) daily driver
2012 NZ New Outlander VRX - V6 family wagon
User avatar
BigDon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 348
Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 6:47 pm
Location: Wellington

Re: weight

Postby molex » Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:47 pm

fxgt race wrote:Im down to 760kgs with the car plus 20kgs for gas,Still picking of more weigth,down to cutting off bolts that are to long.still looking for at least 30 kgs.Our class weight is 720kgs with driver, I was thinking off an ep starlet as I think this is the only way to get to this weight


So you're at 760kg with you in it? or just the car?

EP's are lighter for sure, couple of major disadvantages though. A series engines require a chassis chop to clear the pulleys and they run a solid beam rear axle.

I don't know anything much about what your classes are like but you could always go 1300cc with an EP70, would be an absolute featherweight. I think lower 600's would be possible.
molex
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 524
Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:08 am
Location: Auckland

Previous

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 10 guests