Engine codes gone away??

[TRD_ZERO]

I just got a ae101 fxgt the other day and all seems fine drives well just idles like total crap when cold.
Engine light seems to come on and stay on every now and again just when cruising. comes on after 15 min sometimes never times chage all the time. Doesnt do it all the time but quite often. I checked the oil and seems extremly ful like way over full. So im going to do an oil change and check if the issue is still there when it has the right amount of oil in it.
Switched it off connected te2 and e1 and engine light just flashes rather rapid with no pauses so seems like it hasnt picked up and faults.

Engine doesnt seems to make any noticable noises.

What can i do or check next?

[Mr Revhead]

try driving it with the terminals bridged.
Then if the code comes up pull over and count the flashes.

Does it come one with time, or speed?

[AceSniper]

should be TE1 and E1, not TE2

[TRD_ZERO]

Shit ill quickly check it again i just forgot which terminals it is.

[TRD_ZERO]

Im getting codes 14 and 52 popping up

OK so if i read correctly its the igniter and the other knock sensor.

Whats reccomended just replace the two? Or is there steps to take in checking them?

And would it be a bad thing if i keep driving it until i get them fixed?

[Quint]

I had knock sensor issues once, if they are at fault the ecu will retard the shit out of your timing and coincidently you'll lose power. Just replace the knocks and if the flashes go away, you are good to go.

Shouldn't hurt anything, if the ecu has picked up the problem it'll limp mode itself preventing any damage.

Always fix the cheapest problem first!

[TRD_ZERO]

OK so i did the oil change the other day 5 liters of oil came out and i put 3.3 litres in.
It had way too much oil in it. Engine check light hasnt come back on again. I took the battery out for abit to reset the ecu codes and now when i check the codes im not getting anything. When i was getting 14 and 52 knock sensor and igniter.

Why have the codes gone away is it maybe due to the car having too much oil in it then showing engine light in turn throwing codes?

Say for instance it had knock sensor fault stored on the ecu would it then still throw the ecu into limp mode and over fuel? And now that i reset ecu no knock sensor fault is comming up will it now not be running in limp mode?? Does it just run in limpmode when the ecu stores the fault? even if the problem is rectified? only once the ecu is reset and that stored coed is gone will it not run in limp mode anymore? Hope you understand what im trying to get at.

[Mr Revhead]

Yeah if you clear the codes, and no fault is detected, it will run as normal.
If you have a fault, fix it, but don't clear the codes then it can still run in limp mode.
Though some faults will only cause limp mode when they are present, and will run normally once fixed with out resetting the ecu.

[TRD_ZERO]

If you have a fault, fix it, but don't clear the codes then it can still run in limp mode.

I didnt intentionally clear the codes i took the battery out to put in another car, just checked the codes and there are gone. So if there was still a problem with the knock sensor wouldnt the fault code come back when i checked it and if it did detect a fault then go in limp mode?

[Mr Revhead]

yes, that's right

[fivebob]

Usually it will only check for a knock sensor failure after the engine is warmed up and exceeds 2000rpm while driving.

[TRD_ZERO]

Ok so if no codes come up after a nice drive then all should be fine right?And if no codes come up for a few days that means all is well? Then why did it throw codes up in the first place? Could the overfilling oil issue cause it to throw codes?

[Mr Revhead]

Usually it will only check for a knock sensor failure after the engine is warmed up and exceeds 2000rpm while driving.

I have come across 4age's that will throw a code from dead cold once given a rev (prob exceeding 2k rpm) so maybe the warming up is not applicable to all? Having said that I think the specific one I am remembering had the sensor unplugged so maybe that was it.

[TRD_ZERO]

I even took it for a drive while running diagnostics even pulled over and checked again. Just a constant flashing. Ill check it again tomorrow after a little more driving. Im just wondering why it threw codes in the first place and now after the oil change and reset there are no codes?

[Mr Revhead]

Maybe the crank was hitting the excess oil and making some funny sounds?
Who knows, but if I were you I would happy rather than the worried you seem to be!

[fivebob]

Usually it will only check for a knock sensor failure after the engine is warmed up and exceeds 2000rpm while driving.

I have come across 4age's that will throw a code from dead cold once given a rev (prob exceeding 2k rpm) so maybe the warming up is not applicable to all? Having said that I think the specific one I am remembering had the sensor unplugged so maybe that was it.

It's possible that the warm up is not required, I remember my 1990 SW20 threw the code when cold, but my '94 & my Caldina wouldn't until they were warmed up. Maybe it was a requirement that Toyota added later on.

[themaleman]

knock sensor may just need tightning. also my 4agze computer was picking up error 52 before the car was running. as i had no sensor.

[KinLoud]

I had similar odd engine light behaviour before the ecu died...

Maybe try swapping with another computer to check if the same thing still happens.

Ken

[TRD_ZERO]

Im worried because im not sure if the problem has just gone away or im missing something and so that im able to keep on top of things and want it running right. Its not an on going issue so i wont be swapping ecus as it seems tohave gone away. I just got the car last week but havent had issues since the oil change. Just dnt want it running in limp mode in turn using too much fuel and being all slow.