Not firing?? No Spark....Now I have spark!

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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:54 am

OK so i took the map limiter off and i got spark so my wiring is correct.

I switched the limit off and cranked the engine. it fires up but it dies after a couple seconds cause it doesnt have the vaccume line plugged into the ecu.

But now to find out why the map limit is reached everytime i try crank it. Could it be an ecu fault?
Last edited by TRD_ZERO on Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:06 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby gasman » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:03 am

so what combination of wire have you hooked up not to get it sparking?
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:05 am

I hooked it up as black trigger one and red trigger two like you first told me and im getting spark now with map limmiter off but with map limmiter on on the same configuration i dnt get spark.
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Postby gasman » Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:04 am

need to select the map sensor type whhich should be a 2.5bar type sensor then perform a calibration.
link manual wrote:MAP Sensor Load Input

A Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is required if the fuel or ignition load axis is set to MAP or MGP. The MAP sensor is very important, therefore particular care should be taken to ensure its correct fitting, wiring, set-up and operation.

The MAP sensor must have a linear 0-5V output, although sensors with any calibration may be used. For convenience, there are a range of options for sensors with known calibrations. These may be selected under MAP Sensor Type. Always remember to perform a MAP Sensor Calibration after selecting the MAP Sensor Type.

Some Link ECU's allow the use of non standard MAP sensors. If the required MAP sensor type is not listed then "custom" may be selected.

Copyright 2006 Link ElectroSystems
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:31 pm

And i can do all this via the pc link, any hints menues that u can tel me to go to that i do this in?
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Postby gasman » Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:41 pm

yea all dont via pc link.

under analog channel, load input 1 should be map sensor, select that then under map sensor type drop down menu select the link 2.5 bar sensor then calibrate.
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:57 pm

awesome! Ill give it a go tonight. Hopefully that sort it all out.
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:49 pm

I changed it to 2.5bar and cliced ok when it said i must calibrate. Is that how i calibrate it? Just click ok when it says i must calibrate? It is now showing 101kpa. I started it up and it runs when i rev it but eventually dies when trying to idle. I still dnt have that vaccum pipe in yet. But all seems to be working now. Ill get that vaccum line in asap. Thanks to justin and matt and all the rest for taking the time to help me out you have no idea how much its appreciated.
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Postby gasman » Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:36 pm

to do the calibration go to the tools menu and select calibrate according to the manual.

also might pay to calibrate your tps.


it shouldnt die after you plug in the vacuum line since with it not hooked up it thinks theres a lot more air getting in than there actually is and is dumping heaps of fuel.
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:06 pm

Sweet ill do the calibration tomorrow with the tps too.
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:09 pm

yeah those two calibrations and the vacuum pipe and it should be all set.
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Postby gasman » Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:32 pm

any updates?
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:59 pm

yup, glad to see ur still interested. When i try start the car its like there is a quick power surge like the dash lights quickly go off then back on. When i try again right after it fires up and idles steady just at about 1100 then if i leave it for about 10 seconds idle rises to about 2000, stil smooth. If i blip the throttle revs drop and then idle gets realy rough and unstable and eventualy dieing if i dnt steady it with the throttle. Heaps of black smoke pours out, like its running extremely rich. I dnt know if im missing a open vaccum line as i only know of the 5 vac lines. And the end of the isvc is just to atmosphere.
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Postby gasman » Thu Feb 04, 2010 4:22 pm

what size injectors are you running? and what type? (high low impedence). if you didnt change the blacktop loom and are using low impedence injectors then you need to wire in a resistor pack.

my injectors are 800 low impedence with a resistor pack wired in since the link needs high resistance through the injector drivers.

where did you take your vacuum signal from? i used the old port where the old map sensor plugged into.
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:54 pm

im using 550s from a celica st205 gt4. Did u have a resistor pack wired in when u ran 550s. Im not sure where the map was originaly pluged into could u show me via pic or sumtin? I just realised i left a vaccum line unplugd. That cant b helping, il block it up when i get home.
So do i need a resistor pack wired in for these injectors?
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:26 pm

doing abit of research i found that the 3sgte injectors from a st205 gt4 are low impedance and that i need a ballast resister fitted. Is this correct?? Where do i get this from?? Im pretty clueless with this.
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Postby gasman » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:35 pm

yea you need a resistor pack. theres heaps of options as to what to use. i just used a gze one that i had from my motor that i pull to bits, but you can find them on preludes and DA6 integras.

as the the vacuum line, there should be a hose coming of the chamber on top of the throttle bodies and that hose goes to a white cylinder thing that dampens out the pressure signal. that white cylinder clips onto a bracket near on top of the throttle bodies near the cam cover.
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Postby TRD_ZERO » Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:14 pm

So i can use any ballast resistor off any car? It doesnt matter?

Will it really be much of an issue where i get my map signal from?
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Postby gasman » Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:02 am

yea you can grab a resistor mor or less off any car just got to make sure that its is within spec of what the link is happy with.

as for the vacuum source, it sort of matters where you get it from since thats your main source for sensing load. you could tap into another vacuum line but then it would be a shared source and could be subject to fluctuations depending on what that vacuum source it connected to.

best bet is to stick with what toyota has made to be a dedicated vacuum source for the map sensor.
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