How to tell if a clutch needs replacing.

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How to tell if a clutch needs replacing.

Postby callum » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:42 pm

Im about to put a new silvertop in my ae92 but Im using the same gearbox. Since I'm pulling the motor and gearbox apart I might as well check the clutch at the same time, but the truth is I wouldn't have a clue how to tell what needs replacing. What should I be looking out for?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:06 pm

Make sure there is reasonable meat on the clutch plate still, like 3mm+ above the rivets. Check the pressure plate for hotspots and warping, if its smooth it'll be fine.
Though for the price of a new clutch, its worth doing so you dont need to do it again in 10,000k's time.
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Postby cogent » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:26 pm

this is the clutch from the RX7 when it was slipping under boost:
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and this is the new clutch disk, for comparison:
Image
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Postby OllieS » Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:14 pm

Though for the price of a new clutch, its worth doing so you dont need to do it again in 10,000k's time.


Learnt this lesson playing around with my car. Clutch and pressure plate cost me $150 - Pulling out gearbox and putting it back in after having engine out 3 months ago cost me a lot of time and hassle.
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Postby Adamal » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:00 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Though for the price of a new clutch, its worth doing so you dont need to do it again in 10,000k's time.


Dell'Orto wrote:Though for the price of a new clutch, its worth doing so you dont need to do it again in 10,000k's time.


Dell'Orto wrote:Though for the price of a new clutch, its worth doing so you dont need to do it again in 10,000k's time.


Repetition is the key!
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby d1 mule » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:12 pm

agreed, but where do ya stop?? rear main, oil pump seal, cam seals , cambelt, tensioners?? all adds up pretty quick
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Postby Adamal » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:23 pm

Don't stop.

At least, when it comes to those hard to reach places. Unless you have a flip top engine ;)
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby callum » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:34 pm

I priced up a new clutch today. Toyota want $600 repco want $300. Are there any other places that might have a better price? There are Exede kits on trademe that are supposed to be heavy duty for around $300 but I can't help getting the impression that they are probably just a normal type
kit painted pink. Does any one know if they are any good?
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Postby xsspeed » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:37 pm

Check forum sponsors for toyota parts, 600 is steep.
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Postby XSDRIFT » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:58 pm

Do it mate. Its worth while on those jobs as its a reasonable job. As to when you stop, I agree with Adamal, don't.
If you can do it while its out do it. Even if it takes you a week longer it will probably save you 2 down the track when it starts to die.

Be careful with the TradeMe stuff. Go direct to Exeddy for that stuff. I got mine cheap and it was no where near as nice as the Nissan upgrade option I had in before it. There are also places that can build you a clutch specificly for your build so you can choose how soft or hard it is.

I know there is a place in Upper Hutt that does some good work but unsure of other areas.
Though an aftermarket Exeddy one is probably better than a standard one...
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Postby cat007 » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:04 pm

Could try autoclutch?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:38 pm

Flick me an email - brad@autopartsonline.co.nz - I'll sort one for ya
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby Boosted_162 » Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:12 pm

d1 mule wrote:agreed, but where do ya stop?? rear main, oil pump seal, cam seals , cambelt, tensioners?? all adds up pretty quick


I just bought all those + more for my 3SGTE. Damn its expensive, thankfully Mark makes it a but cheaper :)

Would definately change clutch tho, and probably rear main if the gearbox bellhousing has traces of oil.
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:30 pm

callum wrote:I priced up a new clutch today. Toyota want $600 repco want $300. Are there any other places that might have a better price? There are Exede kits on trademe that are supposed to be heavy duty for around $300 but I can't help getting the impression that they are probably just a normal type
kit painted pink. Does any one know if they are any good?



Waikato clutch and brake frankton, be around 200$ for a kit or its 60$ for the disc only, if you want something bit more h/d talk to ya when sus my rotors :)
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Postby sergei » Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:05 pm

callum wrote:I priced up a new clutch today. Toyota want $600 repco want $300. Are there any other places that might have a better price? There are Exede kits on trademe that are supposed to be heavy duty for around $300 but I can't help getting the impression that they are probably just a normal type
kit painted pink. Does any one know if they are any good?


Real excedy heavy duty are puck/button types.
Normal excedy clutch kit from Tradeparts should be around $300.
Toyota clutch kit for a corolla was under ~$200 2 years ago.
Have got those prices from Mark (Toyspeed TGP guy)?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:55 pm

Yeah wtf.....
TGP kit is like $250rrp
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Postby Adamal » Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:12 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:Yeah wtf.....
TGP kit is like $250rrp


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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:18 pm

Sounds like the just quoted on the p/ns in the epc
rather than use the clutch kit guide and sell the kit stocked in nz put together specifically to be sold at competitive prices
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Postby callum » Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:52 pm

The guy at Toyota priced the kit at around $1000 but rang me back later that day and said he could do one for around $600. I never bothered to email the guy from toyota on here as I figured it would still
be very expensive. The guy from Toyota told me they don't normally
do kits for jap imports and that's why is so expensive or something along those lines.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Thu Feb 11, 2010 5:33 pm

Sounds the guy from Toyota is a newbie. Did you recieve my email?
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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