Link 3SGTE (ST165) CAS question

[sergei]

Just to confirm, the right way to wire ST165 CAS to Link LEM G3:

Table 1:

Code: Select all

Pin | CS colour  | function  | link colour   | link function
---------------------------------------------------------------
 G1 | green      | 1 tooth   | Blue          | Trig2 (cyl)
 NE | black      | 24 teeth  | Yellow        | Trig1 (sync)
 G- | red        | ground    | Brown         | signal ground
 G2 | white      | 1 tooth   | NC            | N/A


OR

Table 2:

Code: Select all

Pin | CS colour  | function  | link colour   | link function
---------------------------------------------------------------
 G1 | green      | 1 tooth   | Yellow        | Trig1 (sync)
 NE | black      | 24 teeth  | Blue          | Trig2 (cyl)
 G- | red        | ground    | Brown         | signal ground
 G2 | white      | 1 tooth   | NC            | N/A


it is not clear what to do with second ground (Green), do I leave it dangling as G1 and NE share ground? I believe if I connect it to brown wire (Trig1 ground), it might create ground loop?
please correct me if I made a mistake.

[QikStarlie]

edit, sorry table one

leave the green disconnected, the grounds are connected together at the start of the loom

[matt dunn]

I would say the other way

as normally trig 1 is the cyl signal, (24 tooth wheel)

and trig 2 is sync which is one pulse per 720 deg of crank rotation.

[sergei]

Code: Select all

Pin | CS colour  | function  | link colour   | link function
---------------------------------------------------------------
 G1 | green      | 1 tooth   | Blue          | Trig2 (sync)
 NE | black      | 24 teeth  | Yellow        | Trig1 (cyl)
 G- | red        | ground    | Brown         | signal ground
 G2 | white      | 1 tooth   | NC            | N/A

Corrected Table 1 (I had my sync mixed up with cylinder)
Just to confirm this is the one I should use?

[matt dunn]

How sure are you on what's what on the CAS?

As on the later toyota's,
Black is the Trig 1 signal
Green is the trigger 2 signal ,
the white wire is the earth
and the red is spare.

I know black is not earth but I dont think the red is either???

[sergei]

How sure are you on what's what on the CAS?

As on the later toyota's,
Black is the Trig 1 signal
Green is the trigger 2 signal ,
the white wire is the earth
and the red is spare.

I know black is not earth but I dont think the red is either???

I got it off the repair manual (pin # and colours were consistent with what is on the car).

and according to this:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h24.pdf
G- is the common and -ve side of the each pickup (G1, G2 and NE).

I could check resistances to to make sure.
To do that I assume:
~200 Ohm between G1 and G-, between G2 and G-, and between NE and G- (check near sides).
~400 Ohm between G1 and G2; between G2 and NE1; and between G1 and NE (checking far sides).

I will check resistances in the evening and post results.

[sergei]

BTW, plug and pin out is consistent with this:
http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/C04

So it is the same plug as 4AGZE CAS.
Pin # are consistent with 4AGZE as well:
http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/Tech%20Photos/AE92_4AGZE_ECU_3.jpg

Eg:

Code: Select all

Pin | function
--------------
 1  | NE
 2  | G1
 3  | G-
 4  | G2


But wire colour is mixed up.

Just to confirm numbering, looking at the business end (that goes in) of the plug:

Code: Select all

               ____M____
Black/NE ----  | 2 | 1 |  ---- Green/G1
               ---------
Red/G-   ----  | 3 | 4 |  ---- White/G2
               ~~~~~~~~~

And respectively back of the plug (wire side):

Code: Select all

               ____M____
Green/G1 ----  | 1 | 2 |  ---- Black/NE
               ---------
White/G2 ----  | 4 | 3 |  ---- Red/G-
               ~~~~~~~~~


Also it is consistent with this:
http://www.peculierboy.com/haltech/down ... wiring.gif

[QikStarlie]

can you not just take the cover (the plastic bit that says do not remove) off and look where the wires go? i know this cant be done on some cas's . but is an easy way to do it if you can

if so, then its just a matter of connecting the ground(brown from link) to the wire thats common to all the pick ups. (usually white as matt says)
connect the 24th to the yellow link wire. and blue link wire to the sync that is roughly lined up when the engine is at tdc. other sync is unused

[sergei]

I have checked with multimeter and between each wire and G- registers ~ 170Ohms. While between rest ~340Ohm.

So G- is the common (which is red wire).

[matt dunn]

I have checked with multimeter and between each wire and G- registers ~ 170Ohms. While between rest ~340Ohm.

So G- is the common (which is red wire).

Unusual, but not impossible.

[sergei]

I would say the other way

as normally trig 1 is the cyl signal, (24 tooth wheel)

and trig 2 is sync which is one pulse per 720 deg of crank rotation.

Thank you, using that table the car is running now.

As for the PC Link software, I have wasted 3 evenings, cranking checking various things, messing with settings, only to realise today that for settings to stick you have to press enter. For example when I set it to 24 teeth, I didn't press enter (but pressed save) hence it would not start, as it would store 0 for teeth setting.

[blindnz]

As for the PC Link software, I have wasted 3 evenings, cranking checking various things, messing with settings, only to realise today that for settings to stick you have to press enter. For example when I set it to 24 teeth, I didn't press enter (but pressed save) hence it would not start, as it would store 0 for teeth setting.

Dont you love that sort of stuff, 1 step fowards 2 steps back because you've messed with everything, but its something real simple thats stopping it working

[sergei]

Most problems like this from not RTFM.