Who can fibreglass a bonnet in wellington?

[ATAl]

I want to remove the metal skin and replace it with fibreglass on the bonnet of my levin, keeping the metal skeleton, mounts and latches.
This seems to be an easy, safe-ish and cheap way of making it lighter.

Does anyone know of someone or able to do this work themselves?

[jakesae101]

my mate can do it contact him on 0273901522his name is allan

[Cakky]

DeeCee on these forums is also well arted in the skill of fibreglass I believe?

[XSVWGN]

my mate aaron did my one for my corolla. Its fuuuuuuuuuuucking light now

[96bzg]

is that aaron that owns the ca18det sentra/pulsar ?

[pc]

I made one for myself. It's easy enough, $200 and a day or so is all it takes.
Glass, resin, filler and release wax can be bought from Barton Marine. Throw away paint brushes and gloves from the Warehouse.

[XSVWGN]

is that aaron that owns the ca18det sentra/pulsar ?

yea clark thats him. I have known him for years! good c$nt but very busy boy!


Matt

[DeeCee]

Yes I can but I won't offer my services. Generally it is very time consuming to do it right, and people generally don't like paying the money it costs to do such a thing.

Mould, clean mould, make new piece, detach old metal frame from old bonnet, find that you wasted time mangling teh frame, make mould of underside of frame from other bonnet, clean mould, make new underside mould with attachment points for hinges, attach two pieces together and tell them to take to painters for finishing..

really, it depends on how the frame is attached to the top piece of the bonnet. If welded in, then drill out spots. If urethaned in.. well fun and games ensue

For $200, I wouldn't even get up off my chair

If doing it one's self, then:

1) Any place sells cheap brushes. I normally get mine from bunnings around the corner. 1" wide and $1 each, disposible units. But i prefer a certain size unless its a large job where I will use a wider brush to spread resin through glass faster. Sometimes the packs of brushes are cheaper. Remember, you're chucking the brushes away after use, unless using acetone (or even white vinegar for short brush saving - like a day) to save the brush, and even then not for that long. If you are doign a big job with a couple of mixes of resin, you may be able to get away with using one brush for two or three mixes. Depends on how fast you work

2) work in ventilated area. Use mask when cutting up FG - little fibres don't break down in the system if you brethe them in

3) Resin, catalyst and matt/weave can be obtained through the FG place in upper hutt or carboglass in wingate. Nuplex was expensive last time i looked there (ages ago) and you will never get the quantity you need from a mitre 10 kit.

4) work fast and try not to get large air bubbles through. Dab the resin through the glass. No use in having large air bubbles nor having a litre of resin go to waste if you piss about thinking you have a lot of time - 30 minutes is the general time with polyester resin and 2% hardner.

5) polyester shrinks but is more tolerant of different catalyst ratios. Epoxy needs correct catalyst ratio

6) use a frame to hold the bonnet in shape. No use warping if poly used

7) prep the object well! You don't want the mould to stick to the bonnet.. that shit ain't coming off in a hurry I use bee's wax from the hardware store, and liberally applied and buffed into the object in question. Sometimes its bee's wax and then a coat of gel, but gel can be PITA to work with as it shrinks and ripples can appear.

Sorry - these things commonly come up on ICE, so thought I'd just chuck it down while my head is in that sphere..

Dave

[headshotnz]

Yes I can but I won't offer my services. Generally it is very time consuming to do it right, and people generally don't like paying the money it costs to do such a thing.

Mould, clean mould, make new piece, detach old metal frame from old bonnet, find that you wasted time mangling teh frame, make mould of underside of frame from other bonnet, clean mould, make new underside mould with attachment points for hinges, attach two pieces together and tell them to take to painters for finishing..

really, it depends on how the frame is attached to the top piece of the bonnet. If welded in, then drill out spots. If urethaned in.. well fun and games ensue

For $200, I wouldn't even get up off my chair

If doing it one's self, then:

1) Any place sells cheap brushes. I normally get mine from bunnings around the corner. 1" wide and $1 each, disposible units. But i prefer a certain size unless its a large job where I will use a wider brush to spread resin through glass faster. Sometimes the packs of brushes are cheaper. Remember, you're chucking the brushes away after use, unless using acetone (or even white vinegar for short brush saving - like a day) to save the brush, and even then not for that long. If you are doign a big job with a couple of mixes of resin, you may be able to get away with using one brush for two or three mixes. Depends on how fast you work

2) work in ventilated area. Use mask when cutting up FG - little fibres don't break down in the system if you brethe them in

3) Resin, catalyst and matt/weave can be obtained through the FG place in upper hutt or carboglass in wingate. Nuplex was expensive last time i looked there (ages ago) and you will never get the quantity you need from a mitre 10 kit.

4) work fast and try not to get large air bubbles through. Dab the resin through the glass. No use in having large air bubbles nor having a litre of resin go to waste if you piss about thinking you have a lot of time - 30 minutes is the general time with polyester resin and 2% hardner.

5) polyester shrinks but is more tolerant of different catalyst ratios. Epoxy needs correct catalyst ratio

6) use a frame to hold the bonnet in shape. No use warping if poly used

7) prep the object well! You don't want the mould to stick to the bonnet.. that sh*t ain't coming off in a hurry I use bee's wax from the hardware store, and liberally applied and buffed into the object in question. Sometimes its bee's wax and then a coat of gel, but gel can be PITA to work with as it shrinks and ripples can appear.

Sorry - these things commonly come up on ICE, so thought I'd just chuck it down while my head is in that sphere..

Dave

You must know my friends dad peter zivkovic ? you sound just like him when he talks to me.

[DeeCee]

no sorry, don't know peter zivkovic.
better to give an understanding of whats involved rather than to piss about wasting time on ifs and buts. More information provides better decision making

[96bzg]

yea clark thats him. I have known him for years! good c$nt but very busy boy!


Matt[/quote]

yea hes a good guy havent seen him for years i use to have sentra i was wasting money when he startd his

[XSVWGN]

yea clark thats him. I have known him for years! good c$nt but very busy boy!


Matt

yea hes a good guy havent seen him for years i use to have sentra i was wasting money when he startd his[/quote]

haha jeez thats a long time ago now! its currently on trademe for sale for about $7000

[96bzg]

haha yea ive had bot 4 cars since then he had some preaty out of it ideas for it shud of done sedan tho

[GOLDAE86]

i wouldn't even bother glassing just the skin just do the whole thing.

[bs]

You must know my friends dad peter zivkovic ? you sound just like him when he talks to me.

The plumber? Use him for some of the plumbing jobs at work.

[ATAl]

i wouldn't even bother glassing just the skin just do the whole thing.

Will this require bonnet pins to keep the bonnet from flying off? Will the original hinges be usable?

Doing the whole thing could be an option considering the prices I'm getting quoted to get the outer shell done.

If I do get a mould made and can get the outer skin of bonnets made in fibreglass would anyone else be keen to get their bonnet done?