fired but then died

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fired but then died

Postby callum » Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:32 am

i installed a silvertop in my ae92 (it was allready running a silvertop beforehand). the first time i turned it over, it ran for a couple of seconds at very high revs then stopped. after that it wouldnt start at all. ive changed airflow meter, ignigtor, distributor and ecu but it still wont fire. the first time it we started it the hose from the fuel filter to the engine wasnt on properly so we fixed that. could this have effected it in any way?

cheers for any info or ideas, this is the type of thing that can get real fustrating
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Postby iOnic » Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:04 am

Checked plugs aren't all fouled up?
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Postby Elmendorf » Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:43 pm

Check the fuel pump is working, my 4E did that same thing right before the earth wire detached itself thanks to bio fuel.
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Postby callum » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:04 am

cheers guys

i replaced the plugs with the ones from my old motor and made sure that fuel was coming out the return pipe from the injection but it still wont fire.

i borrowed my mates silvertop ae101 and started putting my parts on his car to make sure they all worked. his car wouldnt run on either of my ignitors but ran fine on his. now i have three questions

1. does the ignitor need to be bolted to the chassis? as i just pluged them in but never bolted them in to the car when i tested them.

2. is my car killing ignitors? if so how and why?

3. is it just a coincidence? did my origonal ignitor choose to die just as we swapped motors and the other ignitor i brought just a dud.

i could put my mates ignitor in my car and try it but im a bit worried i might kill it and have to buy another two ignitors

cheers for any help with this one.
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:30 pm

callum wrote:
1. does the ignitor need to be bolted to the chassis? as i just pluged them in but never bolted them in to the car when i tested them.


Yes the case needs to be earthed for them to work.
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Postby callum » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:16 pm

Hmm that pretty much rules out the ignitor then.
Could I have
some type of air lock in the injection system?
How would I diagnose that?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:21 pm

callum wrote:Hmm that pretty much rules out the ignitor then.
Could I have
some type of air lock in the injection system?
How would I diagnose that?


You cannot have an air lock in the fuel system as it is open system:
Air can escape via fuel pressure regulator and injectors.

Diesels have an air lock because they injectors/return are pressure valves, and there is not enough of volume to compress all that air in there to generate enough pressure to activate injectors.

With petrol fuel injection system even if injectors are not firing, the prime circuit takes care of all air in the system (squeezes past the fuel pressure regulator).
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Postby callum » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:29 pm

Ok cool. That counts that out. Is there any way to check if the I injector
is being sent a signal to work? Is there any way I could
put a mutlimeter on the plug and crank the engine over that would work?

Cheers again for any help.
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:43 pm

callum wrote:Ok cool. That counts that out. Is there any way to check if the I injector
is being sent a signal to work? Is there any way I could
put a mutlimeter on the plug and crank the engine over that would work?

Cheers again for any help.


Yeah that would work. you should see 12V pulses, but your multimeter would read a lot lower as it averages it/not fast enough.
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Postby callum » Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:48 pm

I put a test light on one of the injector plugs and it glowed so I'm assuming that since they have a signal and fuel that fuel probably isn't the issue.
That leaves spark. I will test the ignitors tomorrow to make sure they work and will test the ecu's at the same time.
If they both work what would be the next step?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:50 pm

callum wrote:I put a test light on one of the injector plugs and it glowed so I'm assuming that since they have a signal and fuel that fuel probably isn't the issue.
That leaves spark. I will test the ignitors tomorrow to make sure they work and will test the ecu's at the same time.
If they both work what would be the next step?


Check ECU earth straps (one in cabin in stereo area and another next to thermostat housing).
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Postby callum » Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:57 pm

well i still havent got it going. the cambelt was snapped so that wasnt helping. ive replaced the cambelt a now have fuel and spark but it still won fire. so it must betiming right?

but the motor isnt missing o spluttering or anything it just wont fire at all.

also when i turn the car over the airflow meters open and shut rapidly making a loud banging noise each time.

any ideas on things to check on this would be greatly appreciated.

cheers
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Postby XSVWGN » Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:05 pm

did the cambelt snap recently when you were trying all this? when you snap a 20v calbelt it can (and normally does in the cases i have seen and worked on) bend valves ...


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Postby TRD_ZERO » Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:14 pm

But its a non interference engine....
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Postby callum » Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:36 pm

the engine ran for about two seconds the first time i tried to start it the cambelt must have broken during that time.
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Postby CAMB01 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:30 am

silvertops are non interference engines.
Blacktops are interference engines
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Postby 85AW20v » Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:14 pm

Make sure you've got the right timing marks lined up as there are a couple of sets on the 20v that you can mix up. When its at TDC there should be an elongated dimple visible in the inlet camshaft when looking into the oil filler hole lining up with the metal bit that half covers the filler hole. If it's there, then check that the other timing marks line up, with the front top cover removed. There are 2 marks opposite each other where the cam wheels are closest together as well as the marks at about 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock that line up with the marks on the head.
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Postby cat007 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:28 am

Harlet wrote:Check the fuel pump is working, my 4E did that same thing right before the earth wire detached itself thanks to bio fuel.


I'm curious how a specific fuel managed to detatch a wire....?
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Postby sergei » Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:04 am

cat007 wrote:
Harlet wrote:Check the fuel pump is working, my 4E did that same thing right before the earth wire detached itself thanks to bio fuel.


I'm curious how a specific fuel managed to detatch a wire....?


I assume it corroded ground off, as it is riveted normally to body.
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Postby callum » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:50 pm

Since I have spark and fuel and I'm pretty sure the timing is
ok I think he engine might be flooding.
Would an issue with one of the vacuum lines cause
the airflow meter to play up like it is and cause the engine to flood?
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