Lowering AE111 4age BT 1996 Carib BZ Touring - advice plz

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Postby Dopamean » Thu Aug 13, 2009 6:39 pm

Bazda wrote:I told you I cant check the tappet clearances unless the engine is dead cold.
I currently have zero time, best bet is to leave it with my dad at his workshop one day and he will check it once the engine is cold.

As for these springs, my mates carib had King superlows, it was pretty low and the 17" wheels with 205/40 tyres would rub over bumps.
We recently changed to the Tein ones, and its way higher, doesnt really look low at all now.


I’m not sure it’s a tappet issue but it’s the only thing I can think of to relate the sound too.....

I didn't expect a freebee......
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Postby Rob_GTZ » Thu Aug 13, 2009 8:10 pm

I paid almost exactly the same as what you got quoted for the shocks, through Autolign. The strut mate kits are not neccessary if your bumpstops are in good nick, but mine were hammered from shocks bottoming out all the time.

You shouldn't have any problems with brake hoses, there was a changeover at end of 97, different hoses & 40mm shorter stroke on rear shocks. Being a 96 you should be all good.

I'll take some photos on saturday after i clean it

Tapping/ticking noise might be VVT pulley, pretty common on these motors
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Postby Bazda » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:29 pm

Dopamean wrote:
Bazda wrote:I told you I cant check the tappet clearances unless the engine is dead cold.
I currently have zero time, best bet is to leave it with my dad at his workshop one day and he will check it once the engine is cold.

As for these springs, my mates carib had King superlows, it was pretty low and the 17" wheels with 205/40 tyres would rub over bumps.
We recently changed to the Tein ones, and its way higher, doesnt really look low at all now.


I’m not sure it’s a tappet issue but it’s the only thing I can think of to relate the sound too.....

I didn't expect a freebee......


Sweet, take it to my dads shop, he will find the noise, his prices are VERY good so you wont get any surprises on the bill.
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Postby Dopamean » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:03 pm

Ok Time to go and buy the shocks.
One thing I'd like to clarify if possible there’s only one part listing for 98 onwards.

There should be no issues around this considering mines a 96?
I don't believe that there’s any changes structurally from 96 onwards?
2wd version.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:07 pm

even if you get the wrong ones, they one difference that matters is the shape of the brake bracket which is easy to sort.

you shouldn't have any issues ordering the same ones as rob_gtz got
you can see the p/ns in the pics
hint: dont tell them you want p/n such and such. tell them your car.
then use those numbers to check once you have them.
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Postby Dopamean » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:15 pm

Cheers for the quick reply.

The guy at the shop is concerned about spring seat height so I'm just going to run down there.

He's saying the parts Robs got are listed as a ae101 and not ae111 for the rear.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:20 pm

they are the same
spring seat height is the same
the only difference is:
the brake bracket
stroke length
one of them (cant remember which) has a longer stroke (the rod extends a few cm further out) the TEIN springs are the same for both shocks. you will not have any fitment problems with anything except the brake brackets

tell him to take both rear options out of the box and you will see what I mean
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Postby Dopamean » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:21 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:they are the same
spring seat height is the same
the only difference is:
the brake bracket
stroke length
one of them (cant remember which) has a longer stroke (the rod extends a few cm further out) the TEIN springs are the same for both shocks. you will not have any fitment problems with anything except the brake brackets

tell him to take both rear options out of the box and you will see what I mean


Bang on brother!
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Postby Dopamean » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:08 pm

Apologies to drag up my own old thread but I have a question about these shocks.

So they have been in the car for over six months or so and have obviously settled in as this is my daily.

This will probably sound stupid to those in the know but since I'm NOT, I'll have to ask.

Do I need to fill the GT GAS shocks?
They came with a 4 year warranty but I am oblivious as to if these shocks need servicing etc....???
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:37 pm

Nope, use them till they are rooted.
keep your recipets as they will not last 4 years!

how do you find it now?
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Postby Dopamean » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:09 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:Nope, use them till they are rooted.
keep your recipets as they will not last 4 years!

how do you find it now?


With hindsight and if I were to do it again I would visually like the car to look a little lower.

To me it looks factory low and for some people that would appeal.
Handling wise its on rails and far superior to the factory setup.
As a first attempt to modifying the suspension of the car I am happy with the result.

Visually again the front is fine but a little high in the back to avoid bouncing.

And I guess for the most important aspect the comfort level has not been compromised.

All in all for the cost and end result its been worth while.
Next time on a car of this size I think ill skip the 17" on 40s, NZ roads are just too fu*ked for low profile tyres and lowered suspension in my opinion.
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Postby sergei » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:11 pm

Are you saying that factory OEM shock is worse than GT GAS?
I found it otherwise, I have GT GAS on mine and they are at already same level as OEM that travelled double the distance than GT GAS.

I decided to steer away from Monroe as they are marginally cheaper but far worse than OEM item.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:22 pm

Bet they were better when first bolted on :lol:

I have found that the Monroes seem to go soft at speed. around town they are fine. On the open road they are now pretty awful.

I think I will go for Koni adjustables next.
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Postby Dopamean » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:24 pm

sergei wrote:Are you saying that factory OEM shock is worse than GT GAS?
I found it otherwise, I have GT GAS on mine and they are at already same level as OEM that travelled double the distance than GT GAS.

I decided to steer away from Monroe as they are marginally cheaper but far worse than OEM item.


From what I have to compare it with so far yes.
However I obviously have not been running two cars each with different setups side by side to compare with the same age / wear etc...

Perhaps you have fitted both from brand new and your experience is different to mine, I have not had that luxuary.

I simply tried what was the suggested items to buy and it seems to have worked out well.

Perhaps Rob can comment, his must have gone in around the same time as mine?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:37 pm

Hard to compare, as I've used both KYB Excel G's and Monroe GT gas but in different vehicles, but the KYB's tend to feel nicer. Going from year old Monroes in the Levin to new KYB's was like light and day.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:42 pm

the Monroes were great when new. but they degrade fast. However they still feel fine at lower speeds
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Postby Dopamean » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:14 pm

So when would a warranty come into play?
If the Monroe’s were stuffed before four years? Or more warranted from defect for four years?

I'd like to find this out :P
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Postby sergei » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:27 pm

Dopamean wrote:So when would a warranty come into play?
If the Monroe’s were stuffed before four years? Or more warranted from defect for four years?

I'd like to find this out :P


most likely if it will burst in 4 years, I doubt it warrants the performance.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:30 pm

Yes it does.
If they do not perform or leak, warranty can be claimed.
A shock can be ruined and not leak.
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Postby sergei » Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:40 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:Yes it does.
If they do not perform or leak, warranty can be claimed.
A shock can be ruined and not leak.


It is really difficult to determine if shock is screwed for a laymen, as it is all subjective.
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