Launch Control settings - Link G3

[l1ttle_d3vil]

Bazda has convinced me (as if it was hard ) to setup some launch control in the Corolla. I've got the clutch switch setup and everything setup in PC Link. So far it all seems to be working fine with everything switching on and off as expected in PC Link, but I've only tested it with the car switched off and sitting in the shed

The only thing I'm not sure on is what the Launch Ign Trim should be set at. I will be getting my tuner to set this up when I can, but in the mean time I'm keen to take it for a drive and check that all the limits etc are working as they should be.

Is there a "safe" value I can put into the Ign Trim (ie. 0º) so I can test it without the risk of blowing everything up??

Cheers
-Matt

[QikStarlie]

ignition trim is there so you can build boost, more ignition trim the more boost you will build as your burning more fuel in the exhaust manifold. much like anitlag. only thing you need to worry about is the exhaust manifold and turbo will get hot, but shouldn't be much of an issue .

you will need to adjust and see what works best

[l1ttle_d3vil]

OK I wondered if that was the case. I'm running around 14psi on max boost and the turbo spools real easily (T25g turbo), any idea what sort of boost I could expect to build up at the line? Obviously not 14psi, but would 5 or 6psi be expected? I'm thinking any more than that and I will probably end up losing traction off the line anyway.

And whats the best way to know if everything is getting too hot? When it starts backfiring?

[QikStarlie]

all depends on what revs you have it set at and how much retard you have.

but yeh 5-6psi easy. but as you say too much is just going to fry the tyres.
will take a bit of mucking around to setup. but if you can dial it in right should get pretty consistant times

[l1ttle_d3vil]

sweet cheers for the info. I'm normally launching around 4 - 4500rpm. Aslong as 6psi isn't going to strain everything too much I'll aim for around that to begin with. Everything is setup now just need to set the retard so will get that sorted tomorrow and see how it goes, hopefully won't be reporting back with a blown turbo haha

[l1ttle_d3vil]

Just been out for a "test drive" and everything is still in one piece ... apart from my tyres Flatshifting = 4th gear wheelspin...

With a 4500rpm limit and -20º Ign Trim it is making 5 - 7psi, with a few decent backfires. Does that sound about right, nothing too excessive? Wondering if I should back it off to around -15º...

[QikStarlie]

sweet. sounds about right. just adjust it so it doesnt bake the tyres off the line.
you can run alot more retard if you need more boost. wont harm it, doing it for short amount of time. we use to run alot more retard than that when playing with antilag

the trim is just removing timing from the ignition map, so if you have 20degree advance at 4500 at 5psi in your ignition map. with -20 trim your effectively running 0 deg when launch is on.

[matt dunn]

I have looked at using the Launch control in my G3,
but had planned to use Launch Rpm Mode 1,

which is based off a ground speed input from a non driven wheel,
so will also limit wheelspin etc through 1st gear also.
Only thing stopping me is the lack of a way to disable it if the speed sensor faults mid race as there is only one DI input.

I had tried the clutch switch option once, but found the point on the pedal travel where the switch activates too sensitive,
as I dont always puch the clutch hard to the floor when changing,
and much further up slowed down the time it re-engaged the power on the upshifts, making the actual shift slower.

Would be keen to hear your results on how you go.

[l1ttle_d3vil]

yeah just having the 1 DI pin is annoying, could think of a few other things I would setup if I had more. The switch is pretty sensitive, just have to make a point of not riding the clutch at all. Not sure what you mean though because the pedal doesn't need to be completely to the floor for either of them to operate??

For flatshifting the pedal only needs to go as far as it takes for the clutch to operate because the ignition is cut as soon as I start to push the pedal. As soon as its in gear I dump the clutch and power is on again. Can definitely change gears quicker and has heaps better power at the gear changes too.

I have set it up slightly different to how it says in the Link help menu. I'm only using a - signal for the digital input, rather than switching from - to +12v as they suggest.

[matt dunn]

For flatshifting the pedal only needs to go as far as it takes for the clutch to operate because the ignition is cut as soon as I start to push the pedal.

I tried the switch point at a few different locations of pedal travel,
from righ down to clutch grab point to just after taking up the slack in the pedal, and could not get it to suit, but that may be my slack driving style with the clutch.

It will be interesting to see how you find it as it should work,
but maybe it doesn't suit me, or I should have perservered with it more.

[QikStarlie]

possible to free up the DI if you really wanted to. upgrade to g4 firmware. (isnt cheap tho) then would use one of the an volt inputs, and a setup a virtual aux for the clutch switch

[l1ttle_d3vil]

I've mounted the switch so it is just starting to apply some pressure to the pedal when completely disengaged. My clutch starts to operate about halfway through the pedal movement.

I'm wondering whether you had it set up correct as the only problem I have with it is it wont stop wheelspinning I'm hoping with the slicks on at the drags it should have more traction. I can email through a pcl file if you want to check out how I've got mine set up?

[matt dunn]

possible to free up the DI if you really wanted to. upgrade to g4 firmware. (isnt cheap tho) then would use one of the an volt inputs, and a setup a virtual aux for the clutch switch

Yeah I am hoping that is a possibility as I am upgrading the ECU next month when i go back to the dyno to retune for the new cams and fuel.

I'm wondering whether you had it set up correct as the only problem I have with it is it wont stop wheelspinning

I only played with it for a small amount of time.
Really just intetrested in your real world results, as I had it working perfectly playing around at home and in the yard at work etc,
but wasn't untill I actually got onto the track as full race pace that it occasionally held the car up on the upshifts.

[QikStarlie]

yeh i just looked at it, seem as though it should work.

[Bazda]

I had this setup on IH8TECs car. With flat shifting you have to change gears fast or it cuts the revs down too much making it slower. For a circuit situation it's prob not ideal as you cant change gears that fast for x amount of laps.

If your launch rpm is quite low then it can make it even worse.

And it makes the drag times SO consistent.

[QikStarlie]

for the flat change you can set how long it cuts for and minimum rpm also. its separate to the launch settings. so with a bit of messing about should be able to get it so the rpm doesn't drop too much.

[Crucible]

I didnt like the launch control with the G3, found it to pulse to slow and if you drop the clutch as the revs where dropping it would keep bogging, not sure if If it was that or the timing was still retarded and not switching back fast enough when I released the clutch?.

It also seemed even though I could build boost on the line the turbo wasnt really "upto speed", I dunno maybe because the turbo was a bit big?. I ended up switching off at the drags and managed to get my times down better and more consistant.

good old "rev the f@#$ out of it and drop the clutch"

Flat shift however helped with a big turbo to keep it on sound between shifts.