Changing CV Boot on ST195

[Kirok]

Hi guys I hope someone can steer me on the best way of changing a front inner cv boot on a '96 2.0 4WD Caldina ST195. This is the first job I'd like to have a go at on the car, the next will be to change the cam belt and try solving some oil leaks at the same time.
I've done some reading but am still a bit confused on how to go about this job.
Do I need to drain the auto box oil before I start?
I bought a boot from Repco last week for $27, will I need any special tool to remove the inner cv joint so I can fit the boot?
I noticed that the bottom ball joint has 3 bolts holding it on, should I remove these to seperate the suspension or crack the ball joint itself using a seperator? Which method is best so I don't throw the tracking out as I've just had it set up.
I'm not sure if this job is beyond my abilities and I'd hate to get half way through and find that I get stuck...

[XSVWGN]

When i did mine on my st195 a few months ago i pulled the shaft out of the cuplink on the gearbox. Im doing this i had to undo the hub and bottom ball joint.

I had the car on a hoist at my brothers work (Mechanic) so that made things a whole lot easier!


Matt

[Quirky]

You could go to a tyre shop and let them fit it.
They'll charge $40-60.

[Kirok]

Thanks Quirky. I called a local tyre shop and they quoted me $60, an hours labour. They also said they don't need to drain the g/box oil as they remove some circlip from the cv and leave that end of the driveshaft in the gearbox.

[cedwards]

on a ST215 you pick the circlip out from the inner edge of the CV cup then pull the driveshaft out, cv balls go everywhere - a bowl to catch them is a good idea, then once driveshaft is out of cup the inner CV assembly is held on with a circlip on the end of the driveshaft remove that tap the cv off with a bit of wood then slide old boot off the driveshaft, slide new boot on, wash all cv components with some petrol and re-assemble using new grease to hold it all together while you carefully slide it back into cup re-install circlip and use banding tool to tighten up the boot clamps.
Think you have to undo ball joint to get enough play, can't remember though.

[Kirok]

Took Quirky's advice and put the car into a local tyre shop for the job. It took them 40 mins start to finnish. The g/box side of the driveshaft was left in the box thereby avoiding the need to drain it of oil. The bottom suspension arm was separated by undoing the 3 bolts below the balljoint and the whole lot pulled outwards to separate the driveshaft, the outside of the shaft was left in the hub, no need to remove it. Remove the small circlip at the end of the spline and slide off the tri-bearing. Bit of cleaning, regreasing and a new boot and bob's your uncle.
Quite an easy job but a special plier set is needed to tighten up the new boot's steel bands.
Unfortunately I supplied the boot I got from Repco for $27, the shop would have charged me $10 for the same part. Grrr...
Next job is the cambelt and associated oil leak.