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touge_ae101 wrote:yeah you will have to use the factory tophats with the factory shocks. is everything captive??
sometimes if a shock doesn't bounce back then it doesn't mean the shock is $&#$%, that is the springs job. the way to tell is if it has play in the travel and you can hear it squelching inside the shock or if it thuds of any description, especially at the bottom of the travel.
THA SHZ wrote:that is a whole bunch of dribble , if it doesnt bounce back the shocks are toast , end of story full stop .
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Dell'Orto wrote:THA SHZ wrote:that is a whole bunch of dribble , if it doesnt bounce back the shocks are toast , end of story full stop .
Ah no, only gas struts will rebound by themselves, oil ones dont.
THA SHZ wrote:Dell'Orto wrote:THA SHZ wrote:that is a whole bunch of dribble , if it doesnt bounce back the shocks are toast , end of story full stop .
Ah no, only gas struts will rebound by themselves, oil ones dont.
wow if you are cheaping out and putting in oil shocks then thats different isnt it
touge_ae101 wrote:TRD shocks are most definately not cheap shit and quite the contrary, most high end shocks such as koni, bilstein etc don't have gas in them as it keeps them more predictable when they get hot in hard driving situations.
also, a 'gas strut' still has oil inside it, they just pressurise it with gas to make them return by themselves. suppose this way you can 'tune' a std crappy car with soft springs for soft compression but have them rebound just as quick to give a smooth ride.
@TRD_ZERO my mistake i misunderstood that you cut a factory spring. i would recommend running the TRD spring with the shocks and make sure the package is going to work with std top hats before deciding where to go from there if you want to make it lower.
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