Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:19 pm

jondee86 wrote:16V 4AGE Repair Manual specs 87 ft-lbs.

by **sark.inc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:22 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:
jondee86 wrote:16V 4AGE Repair Manual specs 87 ft-lbs.

is that still suitable for the 20v silvertop?

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:02 pm

Not sure on that one, just took a guess as you only said 4AGE. I'll fix the title to be useful :wink:

by **sark.inc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:09 pm

i thought sheared was the correct term????

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:18 pm

You're pulling me up on a spelling error when you fail to give the thread a meaningful title and even state what version of 4AGE you're talking about? :lol:

Change it to the correct term if you're that worried. :wink:

by **Mr Revhead** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:46 pm

sark.inc wrote:
BZG|Bling wrote:
jondee86 wrote:16V 4AGE Repair Manual specs 87 ft-lbs.

is that still suitable for the 20v silvertop?

Yes, same parts

by **sark.inc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:08 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:
sark.inc wrote:
BZG|Bling wrote:
jondee86 wrote:16V 4AGE Repair Manual specs 87 ft-lbs.

is that still suitable for the 20v silvertop?

Yes, same parts

<3

BZG|Bling wrote:You're pulling me up on a spelling error when you fail to give the thread a meaningful title and even state what version of 4AGE you're talking about?

Change it to the correct term if you're that worried.

NEVER!!

by **Bazda** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:27 pm

who on Earth would do a Bolt like that up to 200ft lbs!!!
I hope you dont use that rattle gun to do up wheel nuts lol.

by **sark.inc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 4:01 pm

no i do the wheel nuts up to 110nm with a torque wrench.

by **Vertigo** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:58 pm

meh, wheel nuts go on with a mighty heave with a powerbar, shell be right

red car · by pc » Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:31 pm

Vertigo wrote:meh, wheel nuts go on with a mighty heave with a powerbar, shell be right

You must be little... :lol:

by **Truenotch** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:04 pm

Vertigo wrote:meh, wheel nuts go on with a mighty heave with a powerbar, shell be right

You own an AW11... Welcome warped-disc city.

by **85AW20v** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:48 am

Truenotch wrote:
Vertigo wrote:meh, wheel nuts go on with a mighty heave with a powerbar, shell be right

You own an AW11... Welcome warped-disc city.

AW wheel nut torque is 74 ft/lbs. Never had a problem with warped disks and its a race car only so the disks get a pretty hard life.

by **Jonno2002** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:04 pm

man you guys worry too much, only things i torque up are flywheel bolts and head bolts, crank bolts just get rattled up tight never had 1 come off yet.

as for keyways getting sheared off, my gf's cresta needed a new 1gfe so i had 1 lying around that was "$&#$%" according to the previous owner cause the crank pulley came off and cambelt came off and blew everything at the front to bits....... anyway i had to drill out what was left off the key in the crank, file the hole, cut up a honda woodruff key to fit, whacked it all together with a 2nd hand cambelt n idlers and away she went to this day running mint.

piece of piss mate

by **Stott69** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:09 am

Been there done this. Mine went missing after 2 years of owning the car n not touching the pulleys. I replaced the pulley, cam gear and key. mainly due to grinding the cam gear off to change the key. Still interests me why this happened

by **jondee86** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:40 am

Nine times out of ten, the bolt comes loose because it was not
torqued up correctly. Mainly due to the difficulty in holding the pulley
while tightening the bolt. The harmonic damper/crank pulley is
subjected to approximately eleventeen thousand torque pulsations
a minute at warp factor 5, and if the clamping force is not high
enough, the pulley will slip.

To begin it is only the fraction of a millimetre of slop that exists
between the key and the keyway in the pulley. Then the
phenomenon of fretting corrosion takes place. The cyclic application
of pressure to the metal faces causes the harder surface to eat into
the softer surface, slowly increasing the amount of slop. After a while
there can be 5mm of movement there, easily enough to throw your
timing way out.

At the same time as this is happening, the clamping faces of the
pulleys are grinding each other down. The bolt loses its clamping
force, comes loose, and eventually falls out.

Moral of the story, find a way to torque that bolt up correctly.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Yes, its cold and wet and I have nothing to do :lol:

-+=gon-zo-crazy=+- · by **neo** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:40 pm

jondee86 wrote:some technical stuff

Yeah what he said.

I've always done up crank bolts with the rattle gun. No side effects yet (touch wood)

by **cat007** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:53 pm

neo wrote:
jondee86 wrote:some technical stuff

Yeah what he said.

I've always done up crank bolts with the rattle gun. No side effects yet (touch wood)

IMO this area is one in which failure could be total and very expensive to repair. Why skimp on it? Using a rattle gun is fine for some things. But I wouldn't want to use it on something that can cause such damage if it comes loose. It'll take 30 seconds to do it right and use a torque wrench.

by **CAMB01** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 7:42 pm

Rattle guns are not an accurate torque method hence why i will never use them to torque up important bolts/nuts. You are relying on an air operated tool that only has full torque ability when the air tank is full. As the tank empties the rattle gun loses pressure and therfore torque.

My torque wrench gets used quite a bit.

Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

20V 4AGE keyway

Who is online