3S Water Pump Cavitation

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Postby Malcolm » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:31 pm

allencr wrote:All that old tired BS about 'flowing too fast to cool' if the thermostat is removed is an old wives tale that just refuses to die. There are times when a restriction in the cooling system increases pressure between it & the pump to stop the surface bubbles coming from around really hot exhaust ports. Higher pressure cap does the same thing. The usual Toyota thermostat position at the pump inlet isn't one of those times that would make the myth seem true.

This, I agree with. Within reason, you're not going to be able to make water flow so fast it negatively affects the cooling system, low flow rates can be a problem however. Carrol Smith was an advocate of placing a restriction on the outlet of the engine to increase the water pressure within the block, to help prevent localised boiling. Agreed on the thermostat positioning on the 3S engine too, since it is in the flow path AFTER the radiator, it is effectively regulated by the radiator cap anyway so it's likely to not have much effect.

Also forget all the 'magic' stuff that is supposed to work better then plain water, if it does, its only in a lab & barely measurable.

Not sure if I agree on this point, water wetter reduces the surface tension of water and allows it to more effectively "wet" the surfaces it's cooling, basically increasing the surface area available for heat transfer. It also helps with reducing surface fouling, which can have a massive effect on the heat transfer properties of aluminium, due to the build up of thermally-insulating oxides on the surface that can occur with plain water over time
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Postby MAGN1T » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:05 pm

It's just typical symptoms of a leaking headgsket, nothing more.

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Postby mjrstar » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:45 pm

just did a quick BHG search....


Dell'Orto wrote:In before magn1t - bhg :lol:


sergei wrote:I am NOT MAGN1T :lol: , but I will say you might have a case of BHG.


MAGN1T wrote:All toyotas blow headgaskets sooner or later. Your time looks like it's up now.
Radiators only block because the owners keep putting water in there. That's the effect, not the cause. Check for bubbles coming out while it's idling.

Steve


MAGN1T wrote:The headghasket is probably still leaking because the block wasn't "decked".

Pretty common on JZs if you talk to an engine reconditioner.

Steve


CAMB01 wrote:Steve will tell you, you have a blown headgasket :roll:


CAMB01 wrote:What makes you such a so called expert at blown head gaskets Steve?


Malcolm wrote:
MAGN1T wrote:Murphy's law says that the last headgasket job done on the car wasn't done properly.
Needs doing again.
Too much pressure blows the coolant our through the seal.

Steve

Murphy's law? Sounds more like MAGN1T's law to me.



and my personal favourite....


MAGN1T's Law wrote:BHG



These are all straight quotes from here on TS.. :P
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Postby MAGN1T » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:27 am

Well done.

Leaks start off small and get bigger and bigger.

It's only a BHG once the thing completely cooks and won't run properly.


Small leaks don't show up unless you're experienced, once they get bigger , they're more obvious.

Things are never so bad that they can't get worse, as they always do.


Here's another one you might want to quote me on...."creeping death"


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Postby RomanV » Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:05 am

MAGN1T is one of my favourite posters here.

He's got interesting points of view that often get dismissed because of the BHG thing.

Keep fighting the good fight old chap!
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Postby Celica RA45 » Wed Feb 16, 2011 5:50 pm

im using the std beams water pump and reving this motor to 9000 rpm and the water temp sits on 80 c all day .it does go up if the weather temp go to 35c thou
ps look at your radaitor
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Postby pc » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:59 pm

How was the radiator checked?
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Postby strx7 » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:34 pm

my radiator is a brand new twin pass end tank griffin alloy unit. i'm 100% sure its up to the cooling task being asked of it
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Postby nz_climber » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:03 pm

Radiator might be big enough, but some other factors to think about. What about airflow though it. Make sure air is not just going around of over the radiator..

Also make sure the air can get out of the engine bay, could be a big cushion of hot air stuck in the engine bay, need to make sure it can leave as fast as its coming in the front.

Is the radiator blocked by the intercooler?
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Postby 85AW20v » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:09 pm

nz_climber wrote:Radiator might be big enough, but some other factors to think about. What about airflow though it. Make sure air is not just going around of over the radiator..

Also make sure the air can get out of the engine bay, could be a big cushion of hot air stuck in the engine bay, need to make sure it can leave as fast as its coming in the front.

Is the radiator blocked by the intercooler?

Now that you mention it, I remember reading something years ago regarding the cooling on the Focus rally cars. They were having problems with cooling so opened up the front, put in a bigger radiator/oil cooler then finally worked out that although they were getting the air in, it couldn't get out, especially with the under body guarding etc in place. They put in some bonnet vents and the problems were solved.
See ya

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Postby strx7 » Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:21 pm

bonnet has a healthy sized vent in it to get airflow thru.

yes there is an intercooler parked in front of it, approx 60% of the air that goes thru the radiator passes thru the intercooler to get to the rad.
Have blanked off areas etc making more air flow thru the radiator.

will have a working oil temp guage for next time at the track.
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