any one in NZ make billet cranks for 3sgte /ge

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Postby levinguy » Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:23 am

strx7 wrote:3sge/3sgte cranks are forged, 3sfe cranks are cast


what about 5s cranks?
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Postby 4agtepwr » Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:23 am

Stock 4age crank in mine that ive knife edged and lightend, not very much but a little and balanced but was very carefull when I balanced everything and stock front pulley as well, See's well over 9 grand pretty offten and no issues what so ever. Always run a harmonic balancer, there there for a reason. Alloy front pulleys destroy cranks/bearings/oil pumps. Im not so sure about 3s cranks but a good friend of mine runs a stock one in his celica which makes well over 500hp and the crank has never really been an issue, just the everything else haha
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Postby iOnic » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:56 am

Steve, are you suggesting that you've never seen bent cast rods?
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Postby strx7 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:51 am

levinguy wrote:
strx7 wrote:3sge/3sgte cranks are forged, 3sfe cranks are cast


what about 5s cranks?


cast
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Postby MAGN1T » Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:17 am

iOnic wrote:Steve, are you suggesting that you've never seen bent cast rods?

I've never even seen a cast conrod, they're all forged. Even in a 1955 ford V8.

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Postby Celica RA45 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:23 pm

next you guys will saying i need to keep the altezza dual mass fly wheel .or the crank will break
and changing rod ratio will have no effect on the crank .it will only dwell at tdc longer same with bdc and it changes the piston speed down so i can rev it higher
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:51 pm

Celica RA45 wrote:next you guys will saying i need to keep the altezza dual mass fly wheel .or the crank will break
and changing rod ratio will have no effect on the crank .it will only dwell at tdc longer same with bdc and it changes the piston speed down so i can rev it higher


So you are saying that it spends longer at the top, longer at the bottom, and goes up and down slower... all while doing the same rpm? Thats seems illogical.
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Postby Celica RA45 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:04 pm

we are talking milli seconds
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:12 pm

Celica RA45 wrote:we are talking milli seconds


You can talk femto seconds if you want, it doesn't change the fact that at X rpm you have Y time. If you are spending more of that time at the top and bottom you have to move faster on average in between to still complete the movements in the same amount of time.
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Postby Celica RA45 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:30 pm

look at it this short rod piston speed maxes out about 8000 rpm longer rods changes piston speed so can rev higher im talking about piston dwelling at top d c longer thats it
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Postby strx7 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:39 pm

Celica RA45 wrote:look at it this short rod piston speed maxes out about 8000 rpm longer rods changes piston speed so can rev higher im talking about piston dwelling at top d c longer thats it


wouldn't spending longer at TDC and BDC mean acceleration and deceleration is faster which would put more stress on the crank?
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Postby Celica RA45 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:48 pm

just found out that toyota australia use TTE cranks that are stronger and dont have problems ,like the std jap cranks ,seems like these are a problem if you rev these past 9 kay, say there you go
neil bates rod ratio is 148mm 10mm longer than std
its all to do with piston speed i have a 1.69 ratio std is a 1.6
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Postby Akane » Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:15 pm

WTF did I just read?
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby MAGN1T » Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:58 pm

Rod ratios is all bullshit, like lots of other things when it comes to cars, a compromise at best.
A longer rod puts less side loading on the cylinder walls, a shorter rod keeps the piston at TDC for less time supposedly reducing detonation or the effect of it.
It's just more money down the drain for no reason if you decide to change what you've got.

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Postby Malcolm » Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:09 pm

Actually having a greater rod ratio reduces your peak accelerations, not your speeds

Increasing the rod ratio reduces the force due to acceleration on the crank, conrod and piston, it also reduces the angular displacement that the conrod moves through during a cycle which reduces side loadings on the piston/cylinder walls. Unfortunately this does come at the expense of a longer/heavier conrod.
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Postby Celica RA45 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:30 pm

thanks malcolm you got it it also lets it rev higher and the weight of the rod and piston works out to be the same as the std cast and beams rod ,as we use 20mm pins std is 22mm thinner rings 1.2 and 2.4 oil rings also grind crank down to use 4g62 mitso bearings on the big ends it all helps
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Postby KinLoud » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:55 pm

Pulled a crank from a late model 5sfe - it was forged.

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Postby Akane » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:57 pm

KinLoud wrote:Pulled a crank from a late model 5sfe - it was forged.

Ken


How do you know that it's forged? Not doubting you just want to know how you can tell, besides no casting marks
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Postby nzae86 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 8:27 am

Image


Image


Here's one example of a forged crank
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Postby Rookie » Wed Jun 29, 2011 4:27 pm

Akane wrote:
How do you know that it's forged? Not doubting you just want to know how you can tell, besides no casting marks


This is a good how to: Cast Vs. Forged

Malcolm wrote:Actually having a greater rod ratio reduces your peak accelerations, not your speeds

Increasing the rod ratio reduces the force due to acceleration on the crank, conrod and piston, it also reduces the angular displacement that the conrod moves through during a cycle which reduces side loadings on the piston/cylinder walls. Unfortunately this does come at the expense of a longer/heavier conrod.


This man, he knows.

MAGN1T wrote:Rod ratios is all bullshit, like lots of other things when it comes to cars, a compromise at best.
A longer rod puts less side loading on the cylinder walls, a shorter rod keeps the piston at TDC for less time supposedly reducing detonation or the effect of it.
It's just more money down the drain for no reason if you decide to change what you've got.

Steve


This man, he doesn't.

The only time you will find that having a large rod/stoke ratio doesn't help is on engines where the head can't keep up with the increased piston accelerations. A good example of this is smog era V8 engines, where the flow just couldn't keep up with the increased piston accelerations and would turn the flow turbulent, and as such you would lose lots of power.

I don't know why you would be trying to fix detonation with rod/stroke ratio, I personally would use tune, but hey. Having a longer dwell time at tdc also helps HP because at high revs it lets the flame front propagate fully, and means that you make the most of each explosion as opposed to the flame front chasing the piston down the bore.

so all in all, increasing the R/S ratio is a good thing for high performance cars.
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