Caldina GT-T tinkering

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Postby blindnz » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:04 pm

Whilst we are talking intercoolers, does size effect throttle response? I understand that longer piping does, but what about physical size, is there a point where bigger is no longer better.
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Postby wobbly » Wed Jun 29, 2011 2:20 pm

sweet, ok so all pipes have finally turned up, silicon hosing and pod filter plus the blow off valve, (all brand new and about $300) have notice that some pix on here have the bov vented back into intake pipe do i need to do this??

or weld anything to the intake pipe, air sensor,etc...?
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Postby Kiwi-Corolla » Wed Jun 29, 2011 4:08 pm

wobbly wrote:sweet, ok so all pipes have finally turned up, silicon hosing and pod filter plus the blow off valve, (all brand new and about $300) have notice that some pix on here have the bov vented back into intake pipe do i need to do this??

or weld anything to the intake pipe, air sensor,etc...?


Nope, you don't have to vent your BOV back into the intake, unless of course you want it to be silent (where's the fun in that? :lol:). You don't need to weld anything either. All you have to do is cut a small hole in the pipe near the throttle body, to accommodate the rubber bung for the intake air temperature sensor. It's best to use a drill bit to make the initial hole and use a Dremel to slowly make the hole big enough. Just make sure you check the hole size against the rubber bung every 10-seconds or so as you'd hate to make the hole too large.

Only do this once all of the pipes have been cut to their correct sizes and you're happy with the way they line up when fitted. Also, before starting the hole, make sure that there's enough length in the wiring for the intake temperature sensor to reach where you're wanting to put it.
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Postby sergei » Wed Jun 29, 2011 5:55 pm

Kiwi-Corolla wrote:All you have to do is cut a small hole in the pipe near the throttle body, to accommodate the rubber bung for the intake air temperature sensor. .


If standard air temp sensor was in the air box then it will need to go before turbo, between the air filter and turbo.
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Postby Kiwi-Corolla » Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:06 pm

sergei wrote:
Kiwi-Corolla wrote:All you have to do is cut a small hole in the pipe near the throttle body, to accommodate the rubber bung for the intake air temperature sensor. .


If standard air temp sensor was in the air box then it will need to go before turbo, between the air filter and turbo.


Whoops! That was a typo. Thanks. I had my Corolla's cold air intake on my mind when I wrote that :lol:. That's correct, it should go right here:

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Boost Tap?

Postby ROBODISCO_20v » Wed Jul 27, 2011 10:57 am

Has anyone got a DIY on installing a boost tap/controller in a ST215? A mate is wanting to hook on up on his GTT
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Re: Boost Tap?

Postby ~SlideWays~ » Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:13 am

ROBODISCO_20v wrote:Has anyone got a DIY on installing a boost tap/controller in a ST215? A mate is wanting to hook on up on his GTT


Isn't this a big no no on the later 3SGTE's due to compression ratio and tiny conrods?
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Postby ROBODISCO_20v » Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:25 am

It's running 25psi at the moment due to him playing around with it. He's a mechanic so if it goes pop it wont be to bigger issue.
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Postby samlloyd » Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:44 am

Hes a mechanic and cant install a simple tap?
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Postby ROBODISCO_20v » Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:55 am

Something about bypassing the factory boost controller? They're two stage
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Postby LEAKER » Wed Jul 27, 2011 8:47 pm

Best mod for cheap on 3sgtes which requires next to no knowledge:
Fitting an intercooler fan.
Basically with the 3sgtes the intercoolers aren't very effective at low speed because all the hot air from the motor rises and the intercooler essentially acts like a giant heat sink. Sooooo buy a cheap shitty 6" electric fan off trademe for $30 (after all it's not going to damage the car if it shits itself) and mount it to the top of the intercooler. Then the way i was going to have it was mounting a very small heavy duty push button under my clutch pedal so it only engages when the pedal is hard down. That way when your idling the fan will kick in and then when you take of it will stop and the air flow will take over keeping it nice and cool all the time. Alternatively just run it off a switch.

Anyway $50 and some time and you would gain a few horsies not to mention you wont get the lag like afront mount gives you. Not that i'm complaiing about mine ;)
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:32 pm

ROBODISCO_20v wrote:It's running 25psi at the moment due to him playing around with it. He's a mechanic so if it goes pop it wont be to bigger issue.

I wouldnt get any work done by that mechanic, that engine wont last long at all at 25PSI, let alone anything above stock.....
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