Cooling 20V AE86

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Cooling 20V AE86

Postby R.U.F » Mon Jul 25, 2011 12:56 pm

Can I use my 16V RWD water pump and other cooling pipes to reverse the circulation on a black top when set up for RWD?
I like the methodology behind the SQ engineering website and wondered if anyone here has done a similar set up and how much of the 16V parts can be utilised?
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Postby stolic » Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:53 pm

have a look at Stalkers blue AE85 with a 20v

viewtopic.php?t=64673&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

the first couple of pics show how the water lines were made by the previous owner.. I changed these as this car is getting the turbo treatment ( and those water lines looked crap ) and now the water lines are routed around behind the engine and come forward under the intake manifold. The only bit of fab work required was a small weld to enable the thermostat pipe to be rotated 180 deg, and a little creative work with a few different rubber pipe bends.
It's not 100% finished ( still a few sections of mock-up pipe that need to be replaced once angles are confirmed) but I'll get Stalker to thow up some pics if you like.
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Postby R.U.F » Mon Jul 25, 2011 3:07 pm

Is the firewall standard looks like the distributor is still fitted? Heater still running?
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Postby stolic » Tue Jul 26, 2011 10:16 am

yes his firewall has been modded, tho it was not really required for the current setup as such. Dizzy is just there to act as a CAS for the link ecu, no cap required (wasted spark setup) so it doesn't stick out as far. But then I've seen installs with dizzy cap in place and only minor bending of the firewall required. because the firewall was already cut up I used the space for part of the water lines, but you could still get them to sit behind the engine with a standard firewall, tho it will be snug so I understand if you prefer another way of doing it.
When the thermostat housing was made to rotate 180 deg, this required that the 2 heater hose connections on the housing to be cut off and welded up. If you want to retain use of your heater you can either drill and tap 2 holes on the thermostat housing for some brass barbed fittings and connect your heater to that, or you could just Tee the heater lines into the main water lines.

anyway, here's a RWD blacktop turbo build from club4ag that may have some more info to help ya :wink:

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id ... tid=604343
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Postby R.U.F » Tue Jul 26, 2011 1:11 pm

Thanks Stolic. Was considering reversing the water circulation. I get the impression though from a bit of reading that will be more reliable and less modification to adapt the standard housing. I'm going to compare my 16v and 20V parts and devise a plan form there. I'll jus tneed to find someone who can wield alloy and I'm sure I'll nut it out. Seems to be so many conflicting stories online about the firewall and distributor. But we'll see when we sit in. If I can keep the heater and move it back I will.
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Postby Logan » Tue Jul 26, 2011 1:21 pm

I have designed and made a custom housing which allows lines to be run out intake side and not mod firewall. Then use a front mount dizzy cap kit.
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Postby R.U.F » Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:15 pm

Hi Logan
Can you please send me some details? phalliday@live.com
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Postby Sam-Q » Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:41 am

R.U.F wrote:I like the methodology behind the SQ engineering website and wondered if anyone here has done a similar set up and how much of the 16V parts can be utilised?
Cheers


thanks, there is a way where you can use almost everything of what you have now. What you can do is swap over your whole front and back half of your rwd pump with it's pulley and still use the bypass in it. I have in the works some aluminium tig welded outlets for this very job but they are a while off yet. Right now my outlets need an external thermostat which isn't pretty, although cheap and easy.

Just make sure when you block off the back of the head that enough water can bypass between the channels there. Where will you put the sensors?


stolic wrote: The only bit of fab work required was a small weld to enable the thermostat pipe to be rotated 180 deg, and a little creative work with a few different rubber pipe bends.
It's not 100% finished ( still a few sections of mock-up pipe that need to be replaced once angles are confirmed) but I'll get Stalker to thow up some pics if you like.


That sounds like a lot of work, have you thought of just not having those pipes?
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Postby stolic » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:56 am

Sam-Q wrote:
stolic wrote: The only bit of fab work required was a small weld to enable the thermostat pipe to be rotated 180 deg, and a little creative work with a few different rubber pipe bends.
It's not 100% finished ( still a few sections of mock-up pipe that need to be replaced once angles are confirmed) but I'll get Stalker to thow up some pics if you like.


That sounds like a lot of work, have you thought of just not having those pipes?


A lot of work? how so? $20 of alloy welding and then raiding the spare parts bin in the garage, or repco's water pipe section, for a few hoses with the right bends. All the temp sensors stay in the same place (except 1), and coolant flows thru the head as toyota intended. yes the space is a little tight but it could only be easier if you were putting a rwd 16v in :lol:
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 28, 2011 12:39 pm

Cheers stolic. Pics would be great.
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Postby Sam-Q » Thu Jul 28, 2011 12:59 pm

a lot of work in making all the pipes up and making it fit. I wish I had the ability to do some aluminium tig welding, assumign that's what you used.

Well to me it seems to anyway without seeing what you actually did I can't know. So your still using the original thermostat housing? If you do have pics I also would like to see it.

The water routing is a bit of a null point though as it's been proven to not have any real world effect.
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Postby stolic » Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:02 pm

R.U.F wrote:Cheers stolic. Pics would be great.


no worries, I'll try get Stalker to take some pics tonight, and I'll take the rear water lines and housing off so you can see what I'm talking about.
Currently putting the final touches on his OTHER AE85 which I put a 16v 7age into, so might get a rough idea of the space you'll have (or not) with an unmolested firewall.

Just out of interest.. are you using the standard ecu? or something aftermarket? If you go aftermarket and d wasted spark or C.O.P. then you only need to retain the base of the dizzy and do away with the cap giving you more breathing space at the firewall. 8)
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Postby Sam-Q » Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:24 pm

I just realised R.U.F you never said what car it's going into?
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 28, 2011 2:33 pm

AE85 previously running a bluetop. All Ae86 running gear.
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Postby Sam-Q » Thu Jul 28, 2011 2:36 pm

alright then it's pretty easy. To give you some idea then on my own car I use a 10mm transmission spacer and with an aluminium dizzy cover I have about a 3mm gap from my heater hoses. Off my 25mm bypass plate I have lots- like enough to get my hand behind it.
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 28, 2011 3:36 pm

cheers Sam. I am keen to keep the parts as standard as possible purely from a reliability point of view.
But . . . If I can utilise the 16V pump and have the sensors on the bypass plate so the loom stays standard i'd be pretty happy. I have read your page but am still not 100% sure about the front pipes and thermostat set up.

By the way I emailed you last week and so know you are working ont he thermo housing.
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Postby Sam-Q » Thu Jul 28, 2011 3:41 pm

ah yes, well I have a prototype of the new thermo housing going as of yesterday and I am getting a batch of 10 cut up today to be ready early next week. I can post on here the result of that.
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 28, 2011 3:41 pm

if the temp sensor is relocated off the back of the standard 20V thermo housing say to the top or side, will it clear the firewall?
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Postby stolic » Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:38 pm

R.U.F wrote:if the temp sensor is relocated off the back of the standard 20V thermo housing say to the top or side, will it clear the firewall?


Should do, Stalkers blue 85 was running a link and the privious owner had removed the sensor and welded it up. we used a trademe water temp sensor adapter thing as one of the water pipe joins as I put in an aftermarket water temp/fan controller. pretty sure that sensor you're talking about is for the dash as the other one on the main housing it is for the ecu?? (could be mistaken) being 20v it may not read right on your 85 dash anyway... not that they are terribly accurate :lol: but we did find a place on the main water housing to screw in an 85 temp sensor
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Postby R.U.F » Thu Jul 28, 2011 5:11 pm

Stolic thanks again.

I am cleaning the block tomorrow and hopefully putting the head back on sunday. Next week is the reassembly of all the accessories pulleys etc then we start can start the fitting of the cooling and making a plan for the dissy.

No doubt I'll be back in touch then.
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