2JZ crank pulley holder for crank pulley bolt removal

[1e-pwr]

Hey dudes
Anybody have one of these tools I could use/rent? Spent this morning ripping down the front end of the engine bay for cambelt change only to be thwarted by the crank pulley bolt, even with high torque rattle gun. Google tells me one of the crank pulley bracing tools should do the trick, anyone got one they can loan for cash/beer?

eg: http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=24301

Matt

[Mr Ree]

How are you stopping the engine turning over pal?

Have you got a 4 ft bar you can put over the end of a strongarm bar? Thats how I removed mine when I did the cambelt.

GL

[1e-pwr]

Stopping the crank turning is what that tool does, you counter rotate against it. Today I used a 1000ft lb air wrench (though on inadequate compressor) to no avail... Thought about making a tool but the bolt holes in the pulley are only 8mm(?) so really need something that seats down in the pulley recess ala that tool. Also car is auto JZS161, so cant really use the in gear trick (also scared about damaging flex plate if I tried to go that way). In short, that bolt is unusually cutny tight!

[Girvs]

Get a bigger rattle gun would be my suggestion, I had to use the Arnie of rattle guns to do mine

[Crucible]

Dont need that flash tool. Use big pollys and rest handles against whatever with teeth facing against rotation, they will lock dampner sweet. Six point socket and big break down bar. Use this method on everything incl 2JZ.

If you dont have big set of pollys, rest breakdown bar against chassis and use the starter to crack it.

[evil_si]

use starter and a big power bar
or get a better compressor, even the best impact gun is useless with out a decent air supplu

[1e-pwr]

Polygrips wont work for how tight this one is and not that keen given rubber mounted centre, car back together now anyway so rather just get hold of (or make) the right tool.

[Stott69]

use starter and a big power bar
or get a better compressor, even the best impact gun is useless with out a decent air supplu

+1

[Crucible]

Polygrips wont work for how tight this one is and not that keen given rubber mounted centre, car back together now anyway so rather just get hold of (or make) the right tool.

Fair enough man. If you have good grips it wont slip. Ive never torn a rubber centre doing this way, they are fairly strong. A gun is usually first option if accessable, then Bar/Starter.

[Crucible]

use starter and a big power bar
or get a better compressor, even the best impact gun is useless with out a decent air supplu

yes very true, power bar! and yep def need th cfm and good gun!!

[Jason T]

Hey dudes
Anybody have one of these tools I could use/rent? Spent this morning ripping down the front end of the engine bay for cambelt change only to be thwarted by the crank pulley bolt, even with high torque rattle gun. Google tells me one of the crank pulley bracing tools should do the trick, anyone got one they can loan for cash/beer?

eg: http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=24301

Matt

You welcome to borrow this

yep 320 nm is a bitch

Pick up Manurewa pm for info

[Mr Ree]

Nice backyard SST

[Looonie]

If the engine is still in the car, as has been suggested the easiest way is socket, powerbar and/or pole on ratchet then tap the starter.

Alternatively, put in 5th gear (or park) with rear end on ground, should lock the crank in place to undo.

Hardest one I've had was undoing it with the engine out and on a stand, thankfully the sump was off so I just jammed the crank

[allencr]

Rope/ATF in a cylinder to rope jam/hydrolock it before TDC.
Strap wrench from an old belt screwed/bolted/nailed to a piece of wood.

[limbo]

Another method is to remove the starter motor and jam the fly wheel, I used an old big end bearing against the teeth which jammed up nicely against the bell housing when I did my 7m up to 265 Nm.

[1e-pwr]

Thanks for all the replies, was convinced this would be one of those ghost threads, but great to see so many peeps chiming in...

For the record I did this in my dads (who is a mechanic) workshop. The compressor setup is a bit old but still produces enough line pressure to smash every other crank bolt that dad has come across in the past 10 years, this particular 2JZ is just unusually ridiculously farking tight. Have read about people smashing the teeth off their flex plates on 2JZs so wasnt keen on trying that, and 1000ft lb gun shouldve been at least as good as starter so gave that a miss. Couldve tried 3/4" drive gun but a/c was in the way, and workshop is 2hrs away so unfortunately car had to go back together on the day otherwise again wouldve just built a tool. Anyway, will drive back over there in the next few weeks and hit up the 3/4" powerbar and pipe with Jason Ts tool hopefully

Thanks again guys

[Lloyd]

Had the same issue with mine doing a cambelt, flicking it with the starter managed to snap a SnapOn bar. Just took the plate off the back and jammed up the flexi and came off easy as

[1e-pwr]

Dredging this thread to save someone some future heartache in doing battle with a stubborn *JZ crankbolt...

Ended up buying a tool when importing some other stuff from the US so hit me up if you wanna use, cheers

[Mr Revhead]

Had the same issue with mine doing a cambelt, flicking it with the starter managed to snap a SnapOn bar. Just took the plate off the back and jammed up the flexi and came off easy as

I tried that Saturday.
Tomorrow a truck is coming to tow it away to the engine shop so they can attempt to extract the broken bolt

[1e-pwr]

Broke the pulley bolt?

Fark me I was sure my one was gonna shear eh, with that holder tool bracing and 3/4" bar plus massive 6-foot galv pole extension I was damn relieved when it didnt