manual conversion AE101 o/d light flashing?

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manual conversion AE101 o/d light flashing?

Postby Leon » Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:47 pm

updated ... see below
Last edited by Leon on Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sergei » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:06 pm

This is from memory but here what I know:
The mounting points on the chassis are exactly same place on both cars (manual vs auto). The Auto mount is different. You will need manual mount and manual plate.

Here is what I am not sure about: I know that C160 comes with very different mount (inverse setup), that needed some modifying of the plate to get bolted on with C52 mount and AE101 Trueno chassis.

Is the C160 style mount retrofitted to AE101 BZ-Touring wagon? That I don't know...

EDIT: looking at this: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_2001_T ... _1107.html

It looks like they use conventional mounting, so looks like all you need is a C52 mount.

Here is the reverse mount as an example:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_2001_T ... _1107.html

I think that style is only used on 6speed.
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Postby strx7 » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:37 pm

from supplying LH and RH chassis rails with nose cuts we have never had issues with manual and auto LH rails, the only difference which is pretty well known about is E series vs A series RH chassis rail mounting points.

as said above, provided you have the correct mount & correct mounting bracket to go with it, you will be able to match it up
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Postby Leon » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:42 pm

ok, so the wrecker has been leading me astray ... I even asked him specifically are you sure that you are not talking E to A series changes!

So, it might just have totally fluked getting an engine mount from pick a part that for whatever reason does not line up with the C52 plate that I've purchased from the wrecker.
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Postby Leon » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:47 pm

sergei wrote:
Is the C160 style mount retrofitted to AE101 BZ-Touring wagon? That I don't know...

EDIT: looking at this: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_2001_T ... _1107.html

It looks like they use conventional mounting, so looks like all you need is a C52 mount.

Here is the reverse mount as an example:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_2001_T ... _1107.html

I think that style is only used on 6speed.


Well if my BZT had been manual, then they do only do them in a six speed I think.
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Postby Kiwi-Corolla » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:03 pm

Leon wrote:Well if my BZT had been manual, then they do only do them in a six speed I think.


As far as I know, the pre-facelift models never came with the 6-speed C160 transmission. Only the facelift models did, produced from May 97'.
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:14 pm

Kiwi-Corolla wrote:As far as I know, the pre-facelift models never came with the 6-speed C160 transmission. Only the facelift models did, produced from May 97'.



Correct,

Our 96 BZT wagon is factory 5 speed.
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Postby strx7 » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:31 pm

Toyota change as little as possible in the body between the various engine options available in a certain body platform.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:51 pm

Yeah all you need is the manual g/box mount
No chopping or welding is needed at all.
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Postby Leon » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:37 am

Good, so looks like wrecker led me wrong. I was cursing there for a little while
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Postby Leon » Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:47 pm

mount located fitted, gearbox in car, car driving apparently!

Next question ... o/d light in dash is flashing. Is there a "bridge a plug" connection type of fix available for this one?
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:29 pm

Take the bulb out?
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Postby Leon » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:46 pm

well yeah, but instruments out is a bit of a c u next Tuesday of a job
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:51 pm

Should only be a few screws
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Postby Bling » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:04 pm

You know if Matt is saying pull the bulb the alternative fix is not going to be easy / quick.
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Postby Leon » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:18 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:You know if Matt is saying pull the bulb the alternative fix is not going to be easy / quick.


leave me to my denial ok ... :lol:

I got scared off because when I had to instrument out of the race car (AE92) to replace instrument lights it involved several hours and one exciting moment involving volts going a place it ought not to.
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Postby fangsport » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:32 pm

Leon, you spent waaaaaay too time money on it, and your Mrs has activated the Over Draft light. :wink:
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Postby Leon » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:38 pm

are you DRUNK? The hell she knows how much I spend on my cars

:lol: :lol: 8)
8O :P

:twisted: :twisted:
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Postby Kiwi-Corolla » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:54 pm

Removing the instrument cluster in the AE100/AE101 Corollas is a piece of piss. Simply remove the two screws up top that hold in the plastic surround then pull on each side at the bottom of the surround to disengage the clips. Once the surround is removed you can begin to remove the four screws holding in the cluster. It's best to adjust the steering column height to the lowest level as it will make removing the cluster easier. Once the four screws are out, pull the cluster out as far as you can, angle it on one side and put your hand up the back. Feel around for the plugs (from memory there will be four on the auto version) and press the clips to disengage them. The cluster will then come straight out. Thankfully it's not like the AE92 which uses a mechanical speed sensor, so there's no fart-arsing around.
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Postby Leon » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:59 pm

thank god for that :lol: cos that job sucked, and the rangi alarm led wiring made it even more awesome in the race car
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