Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **jacobrjett** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:08 pm

woftam, had to look that up. ok thanks for your input. not really worth it then?

anything else I should look at for rebuilding it if I want to rev it up a lot, i was also thinking of getting a trd 0.8mm gasket and getting the head skimmed. (does this increase compression, or just prep for a new gasket?) also want to get my flywheel machined... but i am new to this stuff so any advice is appreciated! i just pick up from stuff i read online, and try piece it together, dont actually have any experience with this stuff

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:10 pm

If you want to rev it, get it balanced. They'll pull 8k rpm all day every day as is, dont need to do much.

by **GOLDAE86** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:15 pm

Blk top rods are shit. Get some silver top rods polish and shot peen them.
Shot peening only costs about $100-130 by memory and is well worth it. Done it to my 16v and distrb's corolla racing beast.
Chur!

by **jacobrjett** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:21 pm

thanks goldae86. I just bought some silvertop conrods (they came with blacktop pistons to because he wouldnt split them) off trademe for 175. dont need the pistons but it means i can have a spare set to fondle, or hang on the wall in the garage or something stupid like that (i once had a ruined clutch assembly as a wall ornament at my old flat lol)

upon reading about shot peening i read that it doesnt make them stronger but it makes them less likely to crack

ok dellorto, will look into getting it balanced. id like to be able to drive it to 9000 rpm incase i decide to go all out and buy big cams in the future. also because it would sound cool. i have actually been trying too look at what the biggest cams i can run on standard ecu are - i was thinking like 264/275 ish with about 8.5mm lift. though would i need a ecu upgrade to get the most of this? whats the cheapest way to increase rev limiter, and is the cheapest way it a good idea...? or better to get a emanage or something...

thank you guys very much for the advice!!

by **XSVWGN** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:48 pm

Just run silvertop ones or the big redtop ones. I run early GZE/Redtop ones and have never had problems and i run high power but have rev limit set at 8000 currently.

You can shot peen if you want, but i recal when i looked in to it it was going to cost me alot more then $130 as John (goldae86) mentioned...

Matt

Website · by **Bling** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:56 pm

My advice would be put all that money into turboing it and get some decent results / driveability.

Sure, N/A is cool and stuff. But by the time you have emptied your pockets you probably could have turbo'd it for MUCH better performance for a bit more $$$. Just my opinion though. If I was going to sink money into a blacktop i'd want it to go well. That said I wouldn't, I'd probably just buy something that is fast already. In reality I just buy old cars that never go. So probably best to ignore my 'advice'. :lol:

by **jacobrjett** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:05 pm

haha. im not looking to make this super quick or anything, just a bit faster then standard. and sound cool!

maybe i wont shot peen them. i dont mind how much i spend on the car, its just that the more i spend the longer it will be before i can drive it. maybe get it skimmed, balanced, silvertop rods. i wonder if i would get a performance increase with just upgrading the exhaust cam. i guess that would be $500 from kelford. then about $100 for a adjustable cam gear.

edit; if i wanted to get real performance i would probably sell it and buy something turbo, but i just want something fun to drive about :wink:

by **jacobrjett** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:33 pm

heya matt if you wanna PM me your cell number that would be great.

the crane should be getting dropped off early saturday so looking good! stott69 is looking at open homes in the morning so ill try suss out a time for us to start working on it

cant wait

by **XSVWGN** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:59 pm

by **jacobrjett** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 5:08 pm

have not been able to drain the rad and oil today

bolts are all quite tight and dont want to push my luck with this adjustable spanner! my toolbox disappeared a couple years ago when I had a tiff with my flatmates when moving out :roll:

and havnt needed my own tools again yet

i think scott will be bringing his though so we will be fine for tools tomorrow

ive given heaps of the bolts a good coating of crc to soak in, especially the exhaust flange, hopefully i can get the oil and rad bolts off today though

by **jacobrjett** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:09 pm

oil plug is stuck might go grab some vice grips from the warehouse tomorrow. was hoping to get some of the work done by myself beforehand but

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:46 pm

jacobrjett wrote:adjustable spanner!

NO

grab some vice grips

NO.

Use sockets or the correct size spanner. They dont call adjustable spanners nutfuckers for no reason :lol:

by **jacobrjett** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:07 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
jacobrjett wrote:adjustable spanner!

NO

grab some vice grips

NO.

Use sockets or the correct size spanner. They dont call adjustable spanners nutfuckers for no reason

haha, yeah thats why I stopped trying,your right, if it doesnt come off easily straight away with an adjustable spanner then its probably going to wreck the nut if you keep trying so I just left it. ill grab some spanners on my way to night shift at work then try do it tomorrow morn.

by **XSVWGN** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:15 pm

yeah brad "nut-fucker" is the term. Have you pulled the driveshafts out of the gearbox?

Car jacked up and on axel stands?

by **mlewis** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:22 pm

Hey bud I'm local in tawa and don't mind lending a hand if an extra pair is required. flick me a pm or txt 022 134 7173

by **jacobrjett** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:51 am

Nope I have not. Will I need to take the massive axle nut to get the hub off to do that? or can I just pry them off the gearbox and leave them attached to the hub and brake discs etc.? im getting up at 8 tomorrow and will drain the oil and try drain and remove the radiator, and will see if I can get the driveshafts out.

im hoping to get as much of this done myself as possible with u guys there to guide me but i am new to this stuff,

anyhow I will do as much as I can tomorrow mornin and see you guys tomorrow

Mlewis thanks for the offer ill send you a txt if we need another pair of hands cheers

by **XSVWGN** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:17 am

I would suggest removing the shafts as the engine will be out of the car for a while so the shafts may aswell be taken out

Matt

by **DeeCee** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:08 pm

Have fun. started you guys off. take lots of tools if you haven't left yet

by **XSVWGN** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:11 pm

DeeCee wrote:Have fun. started you guys off. take lots of tools if you haven't left yet

Hey mate yeah had it out just before 3pm. Only issue was the rear gearbox mount. Other then that it was sweet.

Now to find out where the problem(s) are

Matt

by **Stott69** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:56 pm

Went well, only broke 3 things. Sorry DeeCee but one of those is the chain on your leveler, will get some new stuff for you on monday.

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