How to do diags on a 2001 Feilder with the 2ZZ engine?

[cat007]

Car is an automatic

We've noticed that 'sometimes' when you plant your foot in first and second (haven't had a chance to try it in 3rd as you're going pretty quick), around the 6,000rpm mark when then high cam profile is supposed to be activated, there isn't exactly a jump in power, like you get from the VTEC's I've been in.
It also sometimes gets to about 7,000rpm and has a miss which sounds like the rev limiter, and it won't change up until you lift off. It's not the rev limiter though, because when it's running right, it'll rev past 7,500rpm before changing automatically.

[Rick]

Sounds like is could be the lift bolts, below was taken fron the net:

"For the first few years of production, the engines were notorious for failing "lift bolts". This did not damage the engine, but would hamper performance as the high output cam profile was unable to properly engage. Toyota fixed the problem in late 2002 with a redesigned bolt that was installed on later engines. Earlier engines with the problematic bolts can be fixed via a Toyota-issued TSB simply requiring the new bolt to be installed in place of the old one"



Here is also a few guides on replacing them

http://www.billswebspace.com/EliseLiftBolts.htm

http://www.corollatsport.net/CorollaTSport/Downloads_files/DIY%20Liftbolts.pdf

[petercad]

Maybe the lift bolts have snapped, not allowing the high-cam profile to engage?
Have you had these changed - it's a cheap job and only takes around an hour to do

[TRDWGN]

Maybe the lift bolts have snapped, not allowing the high-cam profile to engage?
Have you had these changed - it's a cheap job and only takes around an hour to do

Its a cheap job if you replace them before they snap

[matt dunn]

I notice in our that is is pretty flat when cold,
like it wont alter the cam timing etc,

Also no speed signal does the same thing, wont engage lift etc is no speed signal is present.

[matt dunn]

As for diagnosis, you need a decent scan tool,
not a generic ODB tool but one capable of reading toyota specific codes.

We have a Hannatech which I believe is one of the most popular types around,
and it reads everything great.


But my advice would be to try an AFM first if your into fixing it yourself.
They are common to fail, but also common to many models of toyota.
Cleaning them IMO is a waste of time as if you try to clean it and it's no better, you still have no idea if the AFM is ok or not??

[Lloyd]

We have a Hannatech which I believe is one of the most popular types around,
and it reads everything great.

Kinda

Though yes it is one of the best, we have a Modus as the backup for things that the Hanatech cant read.

As above though, get a proper scan done. Generic OBD2 codes don't always give out manufacturer specific codes. Newer cars tend to say there are no fault codes on one scanner, but another brand will give you faults.

[matt dunn]

Though yes it is one of the best, we have a Modus as the backup for things that the Hanatech cant read.

Yeah Hannatech first on Jap stuff.
We have 5 scantools at work to cover the range,
Hannatech,
Bosch KTS,
Autologic,
DEC,
and Autoboss.