power stats for st205 with aftermarket ecu- 3sgte

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power stats for st205 with aftermarket ecu- 3sgte

Postby rmf55 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:12 pm

can anyone shed any light on what an s205 (or equivalent mr2) would produce with the standard turbo and a well but conservatively mapped aftermarket ecu?

300-310 at the flywheel? (assuming exhaust and filter are done)
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Postby strx7 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:02 pm

depending on the boost level and how aggressive the tune is, anywhere from 300 to 330 odd hp would be expected
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:09 pm

Sean/MR2SIK made over 200rwkw with his Gen 3 and Link
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Postby sergei » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:14 pm

Even gen1 with link and ct20b can do 200kW at 4WD.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:20 pm

KiwiMR2's Gen 3 made 196rwkw with a filter, and exhaust at a dyno day I ran ages ago, they're vastly improved over early models
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Postby Al » Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:25 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Sean/MR2SIK made over 200rwkw with his Gen 3 and Link


Yeah 95 octane pump fuel as well, 1 bar boost.
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Postby rmf55 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 6:05 pm

good to know. does the ct20b die pretty quickly if you run it at that boost though?
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Postby sergei » Wed Jul 11, 2012 6:28 pm

rmf55 wrote:good to know. does the ct20b die pretty quickly if you run it at that boost though?


1Bar is near stock level.
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Postby jbod » Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:49 pm

Ive always kind of wanted an ecu and a tune, tho does anyone think its to much stress on the factory engine? ive driven a 205 with 190wkw on 16psi and that would be a pretty nice HP to have(achieved with just a ecu), mine currently is abit over 155wkw and is factory asides the exhaust. 3500 would see a link and a tune altho id rather not bother if its going to kill the engine..
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Postby iOnic » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:28 pm

190kw is not going to bother a 3SGTE. Strength starts being compromised about 100kw north of there.
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Postby sergei » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:45 pm

jbod wrote:Ive always kind of wanted an ecu and a tune, tho does anyone think its to much stress on the factory engine? ive driven a 205 with 190wkw on 16psi and that would be a pretty nice HP to have(achieved with just a ecu), mine currently is abit over 155wkw and is factory asides the exhaust. 3500 would see a link and a tune altho id rather not bother if its going to kill the engine..


Link and a tune is not going to kill an 3SGTE unless tuner is an idiot.

The downside of link is following:
does not do closed loop ignition.
does not do closed loop fuel mixture.
no fuel trims (long term or short term).

These are pretty powerful features, as for example bad batch of fuel will be compensated for by standard ecu, while Link will happily knock.
Stock ECU can also compensate cruising mixture (short term fuel trim), and using that can offset the open loop mixture in long run (long term fuel trim). Which is nice to your catalytic converter (which is now mandatory on many cars), and fuel economy when not racing.

I am yet to see an aftermarket ECU that does all that. In this department aftermarket ECUs are about 10years behind.
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Postby jbod » Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:36 am

Yea atleast the factory ecu Is smart and helps manage the engine when conditions change.what ecu would you recommend? The link seems to have alot of support in nz and reasonably reputable,
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Postby gt4dude » Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:47 am

i just took my car for a hard blast through the waitakeres, it is damn fast, just on .4bar, that timing adjustment did wonders, its not sluggish anywhere, it did have a new hiccup just off idle when it was cold, but that only happened once then i couldnt repeat it, so maybe it was just my ceramic button clutch not warmed up yet,,,

it feels almost as fast as it did with stock turbo and 1bar,

its just that running such low boost you dont take advantage of being able to hit 1bar before 3000, so instead im waiting for the engines natural powerband between 4000-6000 which is really awesome for .4 bar

admittedly it is starting to creep towards .55bar around 5000 rpm if ive started flooring it early,

also, at this low boost i dont get that tutututututututu sound on throttle liftoff that everyone loves and the bov doesnt make much noise either

i think for my particular setup, all i need is an AFC neo and a wideband gauge kit, im keen to keep factory knock control
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Postby rmf55 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:20 pm

at what point do you need to start swapping the supporting items?

from memory tim metcalfe's one was well over 400hp on standard internals for quite some time.

he had swapped the charge cooler for a big FMIC and was on a non standard turbo. unsure what he got to before he did that though.
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Postby dnalunchie » Fri Jul 13, 2012 4:04 pm

I would think you could push 240-250kw atw through an ST205 with the right supporting fuel and ecu system. They are pretty strong. Its bad fueling that seems to kill most 3s's that I see on toyspeed.

If you are going to get an ecu

Get a plug in Link in and get it tuned by someone who knows them. STM in wellington are fantastic and offered a pricing promise for any work they undertake.
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Postby jbod » Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:57 pm

Hmm. Tho my concern is I've seen st205s with mInimal mods crack blocks from increasing the boost..then I've seen them with high millage supporting ecu's and tunes. I'd like an ecu tho If it's going to cause the car to crap out prematurely say in 100,000ks it doesn't seem a good investment unless the motor had forged pistons or wateva to support the power increase. Even then no amount of engine work will save the block - I've read of thick and thin wall ones, seems to be a lucky dip
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Postby strx7 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:30 pm

dnalunchie wrote: Its bad fueling that seems to kill most 3s's that I see on toyspeed.
.


not just 3S and not just on toyspeed. lack of fuel is probably responsable for 80%+ of all dead turbo engines you hear about.
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Postby Al » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:32 pm

gen2 blocks are supposedly thicker than gen3 blocks. However gen2 blocks still let go, just around the water pump rather than in a cylinder wall.

If you are building a motor you would be mad not to build a 98+ 5S block.
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Postby strx7 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:26 pm

Gt-T caldina blocks are thicker, be interesting to know if the beams blocks are thicker in that area too
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Postby jbod » Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:02 pm

Al wrote:gen2 blocks are supposedly thicker than gen3 blocks. However gen2 blocks still let go, just around the water pump rather than in a cylinder wall.

If you are building a motor you would be mad not to build a 98+ 5S block.


Meh the 5s lacks oil squirters. I'd probably buy a short block.. There is a revision of the st205 block in 1998, I'd wonder if the thick/thin wall issue is resorected.one would assume so as they wouldn't randomly revise it if there wasn't an issue, , getting a shortblock removes the need to reli on a rebuilder to aside the head work
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