The curious case of the caldina that wouldn't start..

[Mr Revhead]

Are you very sure you havent forgotten a plug? Or knocked a connection? Forgotten and earth? It's quite likely something to do with what you have been doing other than a new fault

[snwtoy]

So I pulled the top banjo bolt out of the fuel filter and fuel leaked everywhere (without cranking). It didn't seem like it was going to stop so I did it back up again - how much should come out?

Fuel pump relay isn't labeled anywhere that I can find, unless it's called something obscure. Does anyone know where it is?

I think my battery is going flat

I'm really starting to suspect the alarm now. Wonder if it's not disabling the fuel cut or something :S I didn't go anywhere near the fuel system when disassembling or reassembling the turbo/manifold.

[snwtoy]

Are you very sure you havent forgotten a plug? Or knocked a connection? Forgotten and earth? It's quite likely something to do with what you have been doing other than a new fault

There's SFA plugs to unplug to take the turbo off. I know what you're saying though. I'll go have a reckeck (again).

[matt dunn]

I think my battery is going flat

That wont help.

Have struck a few toyota's wher the battery is the isssue too,

the reduction starters are soo good that they will wind over fine and sound like there is no problem but the actual voltage under cranking is not enough to run the ECU.

[snwtoy]

Ok, so suspecting the alarm I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, and then connected it again, reset the alarm a few times, and VOILA it started and ran for a good 30 seconds.

Not wanting to run it for too long without the intercooler etc connected, I turned it off and refitted the i/c and everything else. In doing so I had to disconnect and reconnect the battery to fit the battery surround thingy.

Connected the battery again, it ran for 2 seconds then stopped!!

I'll disconnect and reconnect the battery agian. Sigh.

[snwtoy]

Didn't work. I wonder if my 30 seconds of freedom was as a result of the engine start draining down into the cylinders.


Anybody know where the fuel pump relay is on a ST215?

[Lloyd]

LH guard behind the fusebox?

When you cracked the fuel line there would have been residual pressure or even just pressure from the fuel tank.

[matt dunn]

any chance you have the feed and return line mixed up?

Dont think those models are returnless are they.

[snwtoy]

any chance you have the feed and return line mixed up?

Dont think those models are returnless are they.

I haven't touched the fuel lines, so I don't believe so

LH guard behind the fusebox?

When you cracked the fuel line there would have been residual pressure or even just pressure from the fuel tank.

So is this the fuel pump relay?



If I release the fuel cap, there should be no residual pressure from the tank correct? So I should then be able to disconnect the filter without fuel continuing to leak?

[Mr Revhead]

Remind me again why you pulled it all apart?
Did you take out the intake system or just un hook the turbo from it?

[snwtoy]

Remind me again why you pulled it all apart?
Did you take out the intake system or just un hook the turbo from it?

Crack(s) in the manifold Plus I needed to get the oil return re-welded, and a pressure feed tapped onto the turbo for the w/g activation.

Intake system has been out, yes. Airbox, filter, piping.

[Lloyd]

Reasonably sure it is. Its been a while since playing with one. 2 pins should be the switch part of the relay. Assuming it is the fuel pump relay (so I can deny all fault if anything melts ) then you should be able to just bridge the 2 terminals in the plug and hear the fuel pump buzzing quietly.

[iOnic]

If I release the fuel cap, there should be no residual pressure from the tank correct? So I should then be able to disconnect the filter without fuel continuing to leak?

No. Everything between the fuel pump and the pressure regulator will still be pressurized. Your fuel tank shouldn't be pressurized. Can you hear your fuel pump priming when the key is turned on? Is it running under cranking? Can you disable your alarm immobilizer while you try to diagnose the fault?

Also get a fully charged battery. Even a slightly discharged battery will wreak havoc with your vehicle electronics and cause problems that will have you chasing your tail (eg no spark/no fuel)

[snwtoy]

If I release the fuel cap, there should be no residual pressure from the tank correct? So I should then be able to disconnect the filter without fuel continuing to leak?

No. Everything between the fuel pump and the pressure regulator will still be pressurized. Your fuel tank shouldn't be pressurized. Can you hear your fuel pump priming when the key is turned on? Is it running under cranking? Can you disable your alarm immobilizer while you try to diagnose the fault?

Also get a fully charged battery. Even a slightly discharged battery will wreak havoc with your vehicle electronics and cause problems that will have you chasing your tail (eg no spark/no fuel)

So when I disconnect the fuel filter, how long should I expect to wait before the pressure dissipates - ie fuels stops leaking out?

Fuel pump is under the back seat - I'll need to take that out to start checking tomorrow after work (too dark now).

In terms of a fully charged battery, I'll have to buy some jumper leads tomorrow and connect them to the rolla.

Unfortunately I can't disable the alarm - there's a separate immobilizer and the actual alarm = 3 immobilization points (from memory) :/

Reasonably sure it is. Its been a while since playing with one. 2 pins should be the switch part of the relay. Assuming it is the fuel pump relay (so I can deny all fault if anything melts ) then you should be able to just bridge the 2 terminals in the plug and hear the fuel pump buzzing quietly.

http://www.caldina.org/Documents/CaldinaElectrical.pdf

Seems you're correct!

So I suppose I need a multimeter to check which pins are which? Think I own 3 multimeters, none of which work



Also, nobody's mentioned it yet, but should I do a fault code check? Or would tha be a waste of time?

[Lloyd]

Definitely worth checking codes. Does the relay have a little pic on the side of it? 2 pins on the pic should be the coil, the other 2 are the switched power to the pump.

[snwtoy]

Hoooookay.

Woud you believe I've been busy pretty much every daylight hour since my last post, and haven't had a chance to work on this.

I have to give mad pros to Matt @ Tin Tricks, who not only welded up my manifold very nicely, but re-welded my oil return very nicely, and also created me a neat steel replacement for the crappy turbo oil feed flange which stripped the banjo bolt thread when I tightened it back on.

Decided not to buy new plugs, as they're platinums and the electrodes don't look worn at all, even after 50 thou or so.

Got the mrs to put her ear to the fuel pump, and she confirmed that she could hear a whirring noise as I cranked it, it turned over about 5 times, and then the battery went flat.

So I went to supercheap and bought a $100 set of jumper leads that look like they could jump start the titanic, as the other option was a set that looked like they'd only just start a scooter.

Home and connected the jumpers, MAGIC!! Car starts and runs. Except now it's making a knocking noise that sounds ominious. Let it run for 10 mins till it got up to temp, then turned it off. Not happy with the knocking noise at this point. Knowing I lost a heap of coolant when I took the turbo off, I put another 2l of coolant in, and went for lunch.

After lunch all the coolant in the overflow tank had been sucked into the engine. Maybe the knocking noise was the water pump, as the noise is gone now, and I did had to add another 2l of coolant to fill both the radiator and the overflow tank - must have lost more than I thought!

While at SC I also bought the line to connect the wastegate to the turbo, and a longer newer water feed line for the turbo, as the existing one was pretty tight and old/nearly perished. Fitted these in about 15 mins.

So, what the f**k was the problem? F**ked if I know. I blame the alarm though.

Wastegate is working nicely, but it's only hitting 12-13 psi now, so I'll need to get a little tap for it.

[snwtoy]

GAAAAH.

It happened again!

Car had been working fine, took it for a drive for about 45 mins a couple of days ago to pick some stuff up, no worries.

Drove 20 mins to work this morning free flowing traffic, parked up, alarm on.

Come out 4 hours later. Won't bloody start.

Tried jumping - no start.

Disconnected battery for an hour - no start.

Called roadside rescue, spray some engine start in the airbox, and BAM.

What the hell is going on? I've got some enginestart I'll have to keep it in the car now with the jumpers and a spanner to disconnect battery as I don't trust it

[RS13]

Still not throwing any codes?

[Lloyd]

Did it actually drop fuel or is the engine start just the coincidence of when it decided to go?

[snwtoy]

Haven't checked

Anybody have a link to how to get the codes, and what they mean?

Did a quick search and I can't see anything.