Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

no grip · by **Akane** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:58 pm

Currently using a 3mm slip on spacer, gives me JUST enough clearance to strut, and my wheel is tucked inside the fender by about 5mm

Need to make this legit, 15mm bolt on spacers will make the wheel stick out about 5mm-10mm, can I some how weld my spacers onto my hubs to make it legit for LVVTA?

Thanks

by **92mr2paddy** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:41 pm

you can drill small holes into hub and spacer and use cap screws to hold the slip spacers on, but the slip spacers have to have a solid face, they pretty much only want that the "spacer" is fixed to the hub.

i just know my mate had to go through the process for his cert, was a little mission but not too bad in the end

no grip · by **Akane** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:48 pm

Well that's an epic fail right there, because my spacers is one of those multi-fit ones.....

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 093433.htm

I have these ones.

And here's the current clearance with the spacers on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtPNjccv ... e=youtu.be

by **92mr2paddy** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:55 pm

yea he had the slip style as well, he just went to a laser cutting place and got new ones cut that fitted snug over the centre hub part, dont think it cost him that much maybe 50bux

by **kim0663** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:58 pm

Get an engineer to machine you some on the lathe? 60mm or something diameter inner hole with a 73mm lip to support wheel and drill 5x 114.3 pcd plate with 5mm thickness? Then get some longer studs and be done.

no grip · by **Akane** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:39 pm

I might try to run it without the spacer and adjust the height so the rim goes to where the collar is, and remove the lip on the bottom collar.

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:54 pm

What is hitting the strut without the spacer, wheel or tyre?

no grip · by **Akane** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:45 pm

Tyre and into the springs.

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:30 pm

Have you tried different tyres? Not meaning widths, but totally different models. I've seen all sorts of different shaped side walls. Could be worth a shot anyway. I'm sure TSOOB could be convinced to compare some.

no grip · by **Akane** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:52 am

The tyre sticks about 1mm out more than the rim, so might not be worthwhile just to get that 1mm more. But hey, every mm counts!

by **crispy'86** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 12:41 pm

Do you want to go to some expense in obtaining this? You can either get some machined up to suit. They come in different widths so that's the best option. Another i've seen is get some new hubs machined but i bet tthat's bloody expensive

by **RomanV** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 12:57 pm

Akane wrote: But hey, every mm counts!

Tell me about it :oops:

no grip · by **Akane** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 5:24 pm

LOL, okay got my wheel back today to repair some kerb damage, and they managed to screw up my wheel. But that's another story.

Anyways, took the pathetic spacers out, adjusted the pre-load collar and SOMEHOW my car is LOWER than before, I have NO IDEA how I end up with that, but who cares, it clears the rims now, by about 1mm-2mm

As you can see, there's a patch of rust on the spring facing us, that's where it was fouling before.

I'm happy, getting 6.5 turns on wheel nuts now - Win
Clears the strut - Win
Don't need to go all faggoty stance / hellaflush / fatlace / edaboc bullshit - epic win

Sorry about the pic's rotation, had a hard day dealing with rim repair people, in a CBF mode right now.

by **tsoob** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:01 pm

I have some pretty well made 5mm ones in stock they are a solid disc rather than those silly multi fit ones..

then you just drill a small hole into the hub and run some grub screws.

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