ABS LIGHT

[jacobrjett]

heres another one for you lot...

I really am thinking of starting a quick questions thread because im sure i ask too many small questions on here however i searched for this and all i could find was stuff with other cars on google, and nothing on here...

ive fixed everything for my wof, except my abs light started coming on and my 28 days was up today

it started coming on randomly over the last couple of weeks.

if i leave the car off for a while, say half an hour + and i start it again, it stays off for a few minutes then eventually comes back on.

anyone know where I should start on diagnosing this?

FYI the car is lowered so may need a wheel alignment. The engine has been out (twice) in the last 6 months so a lot of its been pulled apart so it could really be anything.

car in question is my 1998 toyota levin BZR.

[sergei]

Get the error codes.

It could be similar to this:
http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2abscode.html

Here is more generic (but detailed) info:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake10.pdf

[jacobrjett]

ok not sure about the first part but I bridged te1 and e1 or whichever ones it was, and it just stayed constant on.

so according to that chart its a "computer malfunction"

hmm...

reset ECU I guess?

[sergei]

ok not sure about the first part but I bridged te1 and e1 or whichever ones it was, and it just stayed constant on.

so according to that chart its a "computer malfunction"

hmm...

reset ECU I guess?

Did you pull out little jumper from diagnostic connector?
Pull it out then check for codes....

Here:
http://www.st205parts.co.uk/index.php?p ... iagnostics

Specifically this:

[jacobrjett]

oooh. no. i did not. it said to do that, i though i have no feckin clue where or what that was, so just did as i would for ECU... thanks for showing me.

i will update in 5

[jacobrjett]

still a flat code. hmmm

[jaypines]

You need to jump Tc and E1. also remove the jumper.

[jacobrjett]

ive now got the battery negative terminal unplugged.

I was thinking, if I unplugged the positive battery terminal, and then grounded it to the negative terminal, would the negative terminal suck all the juice out of the car? so it would be sure to wipe everything? or am I better off leaving it for a few hours?

[jacobrjett]

You need to jump Tc and E1. also remove the jumper.

ok i will double check i had the right ones jumped. the CEL was blinking so if they are different I had the wrong one. will update in 5

[jacobrjett]

thanks jaypines and sergei.

pulled 31 and 41.

update in 5

edit: front right wheel speed sensor, and abnormal battery voltage.

ok, so to the wheel speed sensor, im thinking i need a wheel alignment... because my front left tyre had loads of abnormal wear on the inside of the tyre... and ive lowered it recently which would have mucked up the wheel alignment i guess... does this sound like an accurate assumption or nay?

as for battery voltage.......... my battery voltage is about 12.8 when the car is off and about 13.8 when its on if i remember correctly...

althoooough I did just have the battery unplugged prior to getting those codes...

off to google...

[Dell'Orto]

Alignment won't affect the sensor, it reads off the CV joint. I'd say its been damaged with the engine removal(s). Get it up on a hoist and see if there is any visible damage to the wire or plug.

[jaypines]

not related to wheel alignment... check the sensor itself for resistance. there might be a break on the wires. or loose connections. as for code 41, just ignore it and perform erase procedure once you solved the sensor fault.

[headshotnz]

flick me an email if you still got my work one, can find you a second hand one.

[jacobrjett]

Okay, I guess it well could be from engine removal, or when we put the new springs in when we were being a bit more rough around that area... considering it stays off and then sometimes comes back on after ive started driving it, im going to assume its a loose connection or something...

check sensor for resistance, sweet, will try borrow a multimeter tomorrow.

cheers james i will be in touch,

anyway, say i wanted to be a sneaky c*** - my wof guy said as long as i bring it to him by the end of today with the light off (without unplugging the bulb) he would give me a wof,

my 28 days were up today w hich sucks, however i might go in the next couple days see if i can squeeze an extra day, or just pay for another wof and hope he doesnt find anything he didnt the first time,

if i cleared the codes outside the shop and drive it in, do you guys think it would last the wof before being triggered again?

[jacobrjett]

I just reset the ECU and cleared the codes and went for a 5 min test drive around the area, which involved some pretty heavy braking too as im in a new area and forgot where a speed bump was, and its not throwing the light.

is it possible that i skidded my front wheels at some point, which set the ABS light off? because its gone now. (for now)

does anyone have any experience doing WOFs or know anyone that does them? im wondering if some free burger fuel for the wof man would be able to squeeze an extra day on my wof sheet... or if the system cant work like that

[Dell'Orto]

If you have a good relationship with them then yep.